• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.382-396
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.936-953
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• 2016

This article surveys the meaning and history of fashion museum exhibitions to understand the characteristics that make a fashion museum exhibition special. It explores dress museology and fashion museology in theory, and practice across a range of international case studies that include the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In particular, it examines how curatorial intervention has developed the interpretation and display techniques of dress within the context of the museum or gallery as well as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences. For a specific case study, we review the types and roles of fashion exhibitions organized by the Simone Handbag Museum, Seoul. It is the first handbag-centered fashion museum in the world as well as one of the most representative local fashion museums. The museum collection includes fashionable western handbags from rare specimens of the $15^{th}$ century to the latest bags of the $21^{st}$ century, and presents a history of changing fashion cycles and the major socio-cultural shifts that have profoundly affected women's lives in public spaces. Exhibitions show the perspective to a range of curatorial methodologies and show the innovative approaches towards collections and displays with broader fashion issues such as gender, materialism and technology. The article is to help encourage further scholar discourse between fashion museum exhibitions and fashion museology.

• Archives of design research
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.81-88
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• 1998

In the history of the design movement since 18708 in Japan, four eras can be seen; the first era started with the opening of Meiji era and oontinued to the World War I, the second era to the World War II, the third era from right after the second world war to 1960, and the fourth era after 1960. Before the second world war, the design education of Japan had been influenced by plenty of modem design movements which brought about in Europe such as Art and Craft Movement of William Morris, Deutscher Werkbund, and Bauhaus and by American industrial design after the World War II. Japan which early introduced western civilization established design department in universities in 1940 professing itself to be a original design education. And Japan has kept making progresses with the help of design policies of the government until now, and has seen the tornadoes of education revolution in every university after the oollapse of bubble eoonomy.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.129-144
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• 2017

Throughout the rich human history, patterns have developed as a symbolic sign and representation of the inner psychology of human beings. Thanks to its intrinsic beauty and emotional richness, the flower has been utilized as a one of the major materials for patterns used in everyday life and art. As a product of nature, floral patterns have played a key role in fashion trends as a Surface Design with other elements of fashion design such as silhouette, fabric and color. Therefore, this research sought to identify the trends of floral patterns of women's garments that appeared at the four major global fashion collections (Paris, Milano, New York and London), and to analyze how importantly the fashion magazines' prediction were applied in the actual collections. Furthermore, the research aimed to suggest possible methods to utilize trend magazines for collections in the future. As a main research method, the authors investigated professional fashion literature and internet websites to extract a total of 4,681 items presented by sixteen designers who participated in the four major global fashion collections each time during the period of the 2012 S/S~2017 S/S seasons. First View Korea and Samsung Design Net were used as major sources for the pattern extraction and analysis. According to the analysis, floral patterns account for 31%(1,454 items) among the total number of patterns appearing in the four major global fashion collections(4,681 items). For the reflection ratio, Samsung Design Net recorded a 4% higher ratio(52%) than First View Korea(48%). Based on the data and analysis of this research, the authors expect that floral patterns in various forms will be continuously presented in fashion collections, and conclude that utilizing fashion magazines is highly useful due to their appropriate predictions.

• Journal of The Korea Institute of Healthcare Architecture
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.59-68
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• 1997

This study is intended to review the Nucleus System of standard hospitals in U.K. The research is focused on the theoretical background, contents of Nucleus System, and the operational problems through the survey of sample hospitals. The contents of research include the development history of standardization, outlines, aimes, advantages, the data of Nucleus system, and the study-visits of sample hospitals. The conclusion could be summarized as follows ; 1) The form of standard hospitals is compact and low-rise the major movements are horizontal. The standard plans of the functional dpartments are unified as cruciform with $15m{\times}15m$ module. 2) The Nulceus System has been developed. The hospitals have 3 stories maximum and courtyards for natural light & ventilation. 3) The advantages of Nucleus System includes reduction of design & construction period, the buildability due to the repetitive construction, and the running cost. And the disadvantages are mentioned as the lack of storage, staff accomodation, pantry, and sanitary facilities. 4) Sample hospitals provide human scale, possibilities of growth & change, and curing environment from art decoration & artificial lake. 5) In case of Korean situation, even the minimum standardization such as hospital design guidelines should be developed in near future.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.43-54
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• 2006

In the history of fashion, the category of knitted items was traditionally associated with ordinary clothing products like undergarments and socks. However, in a mere century Chanel has changed that idea by bringing into fashion consciousness items such as sports sweaters, jerseys, and suits, and so it has been necessary to upgrade this notion. As the needs of the times and new inventions have an inseparable relationship, knit fashion was also born with a close relationship with the zeitgeist of the time - the feminine movement, the rise of sports fashion and the world war - adapting itself up to the present time through continuous changes. Most brands are elevating knit from a mere decoration into a collection piece in a large number of collections every year. The number of brands that cannot exist without knit is increasing, such as Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, and so on. This essay is written with the purpose to study the birth, growth and future potential of knit items. The first stage concentrates on the age of knit's appearance (1910s-1930s). Contingent upon the collection of further data, this essay will be continued through the second stage (the 1960s - 1970s) and the third stage (after the 1980s).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.257-264
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• 2010

In the modern Society, the human's way of thinking as well as the new cultural creation has been changing by bringing on a change rapidly. The moderns are demanding humanity and the new cultural cretion through the exchange between the old things and new things by setting material before everything else. The latest trends of today had an effect on the fashion Illustration, a new art category, which gives a new image. This report of research has a purpose which expresses korean images by connecting the korean tradition style to the modern fashion. And we are concerned about the national culture and tradition with the international stream. For this reason I studied these for the purpose of expanding expression area of sewing techniques by applying to fashion Illustration expressing handcraft techniques by natural beauty improving the modern and traditional images, updating, and succeeding to tradition. As the way of studying and contents, I referred to the inside and outside of the country's literatures, these, publications, magazines, or the internet sufing. Firstly, as the theoretical study, I studied a conception and history of the fashion Illustration. I studied the theoretical background of the sewing techniques through the histories, tools, and techniques. The theoretical background of the sewing handicraft is studied through the colors, patterns, materials and sorts. I also and indicated the various works by the domestic designers.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Interior Design Conference
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.125-130
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• 2006

The various kinds of consumption belong to a general category and at the same time the expression of most basic aspiration in the human life. Since the ancient times, the consuming activities have lasted with the other basic activities and the consuming space conducting consumption has developed as physical devices along with the human history. Those companies that have been given attention and getting favorable impression currently being selected by the consumers are now concentrated on the storytelling marketing. The storytelling marketing is that the emotion-oriented marketing activities give consumers the opportunities to enjoy the product contained stories to put the stories to marketing activities. It approaches to consumer with human story emotionally rather than rationally and heart rather than mind. Recently, the architecture has become artistic either it was linked and contacted media or part of marketing. We think that the story telling marketing is the eternal triangle among art, architecture and marketing that is a propensity or movement to interior at this time. I found out that the storytelling marketing methodology is able to touch the consumer's heart and stimulate consumption aspiration that makes new circumstances and experience expressing space. And for that, effective marketing methodology is to give the consumers a more exciting and enjoyable motivation in accord with the modern society to give companies positive image to customers and accordingly for the companies to gain profits. The story telling space that is filled with ideas which produce new circumstance and experience using the established narrative and theme will be required continuously and able to develop in the future.

• Archives of design research
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.181-190
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• 2002

Rhetoric, simply defined, is the art of persuasion. Gui Bonsiepe, Robin Kinross, Hanno, Ehses and Richard Buchanan have all spoken of rhetoric as an element of the theory of design. St. Joost Academy in the Netherlands has tried to present the theory and practice of a new kind of designing based on rhetoric since 1995. Post-St Joost was the name of the experimental graduate programme. They adopted visual rhetoric as a matrix for setting up a new type of exercise and assignment in design education. In this paper, 1 have tried to show that rhetorical approach can play an important role in the development of a view of design as a discipline in its own right. The first chapter looks at the brief history of rhetoric in western culture. And the following chapter focuses on the development of design rhetoric and visual rhetoric in the twentieth century. 1 hope this essay will contribute to find the designerly way of knowing, thinking and doing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.441-456
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• 2016

This study considers the modern expression of oriental esthetics by analyzing the fashion design with the Chinese ink technique based on the concept of Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, which was regarded as the best rule of art creation in oriental history. This study was performed by conducting a literature review of related books and advanced studies, and then, collection analysis was done with photos derived from fashion websites (seoulfashionweek.org, chinafashionweek.org, vogue.com, firstview. com) from 2010 S/S to 2016 S/S. A total of 317 fashion photos of designs created using the Chinese ink technique by Korean designers at Seoul Fashion Week and Chinese designers at China Fashion Week were analyzed. The contemporary fashions created with the Chinese ink technique were characterized by, first, the bold brush strokes and natural spreading effects of Chinese ink, second, the emphasis of empty space by taking essential elements, and third, the coexistence of deep Chinese ink colors with modern primary colors. The formativeness of the contemporary fashions created with Chinese ink technique based on Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung were as follows: first, temperance, pursuing spiritual and minimal expression, second, empty space, making design elements interact and pursue harmony, third, changeable rhythm, symbolizing the growth and variation revealing the power of life, and fourth, vitality, represented in the rhythmical movement of the brush. This study was based on the oriental esthetics inherent in Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, and it attempted to analyze contemporary fashion design. The aim was to show the possibility of modern applications to traditional values, and it can be a meaningful case in design planning based on culture.