• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.6
• /
• pp.723-730
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to speculate on the history and the meaning of so-called "princess fashion" based on the feminist's viewpoint. While many designers in Korean fashion world have fostered the trend of princess fashion, relatively little insight has been developed regarding its socio-cultural meanings. For this problem, the researcher traced the historical background and the development of the princess fashion in both the western and the Korean fashion world. As a case of the princess fashion study, Andre Kim(a renowned Korean designer)'s collection was selected and analyzed since he has often been a central figure for the princess fashion trends in Korea. Here the operational definition of the princess fashion is the lavish dresses designed based on the western court dress styles. As a result, the researcher found that the princess fashion was originated from the eighteenth century in France. In the nineteenth century, male designers took over the role to make extravagant dresses such as empire and crinoline dresses which became the prototypes for the princess fashion. In Korea, the western court dress style was introduced at the end of the nineteenth century and it became a uniform of prostitutes during the Korean War. By analyzing Andre Kim's collection, it is found that his romantic dresses imitated the nineteenth century court dresses. Therefore, from the feminist's viewpoint, his princess fashion is a mere reproduction of anachronistic styles reflecting inferior and passive images of women. The researcher draws a conclusion that today's fashion should transcend the princess fashion that signifies the female's submissive-masochistic roles operated by the male's sexual expectation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.8
• /
• pp.1322-1331
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.8
• /
• pp.1288-1300
• /
• 2006

Glamour in fashion, which stands for attractive physical feature with certain mystique, has been used without accurate analysis thereof. This thesis is purported to provide comprehensive study of glamour in fashion and to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the basis which can be utilized in the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the glamour in fashion, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The glamour expressed in the fashion design can be classified into the following six aesthetic values: luxury, excess, masquerade, appropriation, sensuality and decadence. In the modern history, glamour looks in fashion design started out as so-called Blooming Age Glamour Look, dating from the late nineteenth century to the late 1920s, which was represented by luxurious haute couture style of courtesans. Thereafter Golden Age Glamour Look appeared in the movie costumes in the Hollywood from the late 1920s to mid-1950s. Sensuality, decadence and masquerade are the central features. Subsequently, Pop Age Glamour Look appeared with fashion styles of pop stars, which can be characterized by appropriation and excess. In the 1980s and the 1990s, Glamour Renaissance Look appeared as glamour looks which were spread out to people in various classes, which is characterized by luxury and appropriation. Based upon the foregoing historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour derived from Blooming Age Glamour Look, (2) hyperfeminine glamour derived from Golden Age Glamour Look, (3) kitsch glamour derived from Pop Age Glamour Look, and (4) romantic glamour derived from Glamour Renaissance Look.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.1
• /
• pp.45-54
• /
• 2009

The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.31-42
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is research on the characteristics of post-modernism expressed on western hair styles in the late 20th century. Therefore this thesis analyzed the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. That will re-illuminate the same beauty worth of same age as to accurate the concept of post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. And the last, criticizing the post-modernism design and that hair design, helping to find new trends. The method of this study was the literature research & analysis of visual materials focus on upper bust image that can know the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage, and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. First, the literature research is composed of analysis of theses, magazines on art, clothing and cosmetology having the contents of 20th century western culture, art and hair styles. Second, the analysis of visual materials is composed of analysis of video films, slide films and photographs of books, magazines, and internet home-pages. Modern western hair styles, appeared after 1910's, is represented as a short cut & permanent wave. That express experimentalism, functionalism, and purism, that is same as the other art's trend of same age. Post-modern western hair styles, appeared after 1960's, also show the same trend with same age's. This summarized & characterized 8 categories; historical method, pluralism, negotiation, escape from the formality, recovery of humanity, ornament, connection with race, metaphor & symbolism. But post-modernism concentrating pluralism makes easy making low quality art and absence of criticism, so this thesis criticised it 5 categories; absence of ideas, absence of the social sense of responsibility, lost of one's characteristics, decline of skills, decline of worth of usages.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine
• /
• v.20 no.1 s.37
• /
• pp.30-43
• /
• 1999

This is a fundamental study for bibliometric analysis investigating the general, research, copyright activities and cited literature related to the field of Oriental Medicine, The data used for this study included theses published by the Journal of Korean Oriental Medicine Society over a period of nine years, from 1990 to 1998, We investigated the productivity of national authors, distribution of cited literature and subject analysis about Oriental Medicine and its authors quantitatively, So we were able to reach several conclusions: 1. The rule of Lotka is applied considerably to analyze the productivity of authors in the field of Oriental Medicine, When it comes to the analysis of national authors it was found that most authors in this field of study published 2 to 10 volumes, likewise other studies. And the rate of co-authorships was high, because most surveys are clinical. 2. When it comes to distribution of cited literatures, independent volumes were cited more than journals. This represents that the citing style of Oriental Medicine has a tendency to follow the methodology of historical research. 3. Scholars in the field of Oriental Medicine mainly tend to cite self-subjects among cited literatures. After analysing self-subjects in this field, the result is that the order of frequency used as cited literatures is as follows: Internal Medicine, Herbology and Oriental Prescription, Acupuncture & Moxibustion. Acupuncture point, and subjects with the circulatory system diseases were mainly cited as far as subordinary subjects of Internal Medicine.

• Lingua Humanitatis
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.255-274
• /
• 2001

This paper examines the history of Korean names, focusing on the structural characteristics and the literal meanings of those for kings and ordinary people. Roughly speaking, the Korean surname system traces its source to China. Historical records show that the Chinese were already using their family names around 1000 B.C. After a millennium or so, the Korean began to follow suit. Initially, however, surnames were in regular use among kings and their kin only: it was not until the late Shilla dynasty, around A.D. 800, that the commoners began to have Heir surnames. And yet, surnames still tended to be limited to men of noble birth, until around A.D. 1000. Though the Korean surname system may be said to have its origin in Chinese, there are no lack of native surnames that have as long a history, e.g., Hae, Bak, Sok, Sol, Ul, and Ol. Typical surnames of Chinese origin that are found during the late Shilla dynasty, around A.D. 900, include Jang (as in Jang Bogo) and Choi (as in Choi Chiwon). Unlike those of Chinese origin, typical Korean names during the age of Three Nations tended to allude to nature or natural phenomena, as can be witnessed in Bit 'light,' Balgum 'bright,' Nuri 'world,' and Soidori where soi means 'steel' and dol 'stone,' Other surnames abound that have to do with river, stream, field, prairie, and so on. King Muryong's original name was Sama, a variant of som 'island,' indicating where he was born. A person skilled in archery was called Jumong or Hwalbo. Baembo was so called because he 'crawls like a snake, baem,' In these last two examples, bo, as well as its variant bu, functions as a suffix, and is also found in Cochilbu, Isabu, Babo, Nolbu, Hungbu, etc. The tradition of using this kind of native Korean names has gradually disappeared, giving place to the names of Chinese style-although very recently we see an on-going movement toward using native names.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.237-255
• /
• 1996

Parody, which is the device of humorous Postmodernism artists, has been from the comic immitation with the popular and well-known object. It's expressive techniques are very various such as similarity, transformation, exaggeration, irony, parados, inversion etc. and also it can be used another techniques of designer's will and ability based. Parody's effect consists of satire, mockery, scorn, ridicule, unexpectedness, defamiliarize, playfulness, wit, respect, esteem, wonder and so on of the original. So parody has a critical distance from the original, whichis the object of immitation. Ultimately, the expression of parody can be as extensive as from an ironic and funny inversion still containing the respect for the original to a contemptuous mockery. Nowadays Parodists have a tendency to use parody actively in order to criticize the real world or to meet the past with ironic recontextualize. And parody include the specific characters of postmodern design. So parody is widely known as a effective forms of expression in now-a-days our environment surrounded with the postmodern esthetics, and it's request will be increased rapidly. As a part of art, parody is apt to use widely in Fashion too. And from a historical standpoint it is to reconstitute the past with a critical eye and finally to become a new technique to create the new Fashion style with an intention of extension of design area.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
• /
• v.27 no.2
• /
• pp.123-133
• /
• 2018

The historical exchanges between the Republic of Korea and Japan have broadly occurred, in terms of both political and cultural aspects, from ancient to modern times. Regarding ancient gardening culture, in particular, Asuka developed gardens with the gardening techniques passed down by the Baekje people. The development of the basic form of a garden pond along with its characteristics, established through such exchanges, is suggested by investigating its components through analysis of data from the gardens of Baekje and Asuka. In terms of the garden pond structure, homogeneity was confirmed between Baekje and Asuka, with a linear rectangular form as the basic design. In addition, the vertical construction technique was used by both ancient kingdoms. In terms of the types of stone used in building the shore of the garden pond, Baekje used diverse types such as natural stone, crushed stone, and cut stone. In contrast, rounded river stone was used by Asuka. Regarding the floor of the garden pond, Baekje used soil, which enabled the planting of lotus flowers. In contrast, Asuka used stones to pave pond floors, which made the growth of plants impossible. In terms of layout, Baekje used ornamental stones for pond landscaping, while Asuka used manmade island and water intake facilities in their pond construction. The effects of Baekje's garden culture on Asuka's garden building can be seen from its influence on the form of the garden pond and shore construction style. In terms of the construction of the garden pond's shore with the same stones and the stone flooring, the garden ponds of the Asuka Kingdom reveal technically unified and refined aspects.