• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.616-620
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• 2012

The objectives of this paper are to examine some of the factors which may account for the rise in predominance of British textile manufacture in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. This paper identifies a range of important eighteenth century British inventions and associated developments, such as the 'factory' system, which stimulated expansion in textile manufacture in the British Isles and led to the rise in international importance of various 'heritage textile industries', including the Lancashire cotton industry, the Yorkshire woollen and worsted industry, the Dundee jute industry and the Irish linen industry.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.173-182
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• 2022

As consumption pattern and fashion communication become digitalized, fashion houses are being inherited by creative directors owing to their expanding role. While the roles and responsibilities of creative directors have been changing extensively along with the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, researches on creative directions have mostly focused on luxury brands. This study examined the creative direction of John Galliano for Maison Margiela, a conceptual brand to be maintained by a creative director. To analyze this, the authors established a creative direction analysis model constituting five elements: brand heritage, trend, democratization, brand status, and persona, drawing on the luxury brand architecture by Kapferer and Bastien. Thus, Galliano has maintained anonymity as a heritage of Maison Margiela, expanding the existing Replica lines, and introduced fashion shows focusing on current issues or social phenomena. As a democratization strategy, he directed the brand to associate with more popular brands or expanded diffusion lines to secure broader customer base, while demonstrating couturier-like showmanship in the media and establishing his own persona. His direction for Maison Margiela recreates and expands brand heritage by transforming the brand philosophy. Therefore the new creative direction communicates with the wider public and diversifies customer bases through democratization strategies, while building Galliano's own persona.

• 방사선산업학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.53-61
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• 2024

This study explores the effects of X-ray irradiation for biological control and high-temperature degradation on dye stability in dyed textiles with Gardenia. To evaluate this study, optimal extraction solvents for these textiles were identified by comparing them with a crocin standard solution. Extraction using pyridine closely matched crocin. The study then assessed the stability of X-ray irradiation and high-temperature degradation on these textiles. Transparent yellow dyes were observed in all samples. Color differences were found to increase at higher irradiation doses and longer degradation periods. While UV spectroscopy spectra showed broadening and lowering trends with higher irradiation doses and longer degradation periods, suggesting a reduction in colorant transition, mass spectrometry revealed minimal chemical changes. In conclusion, both X-ray irradiation and high-temperature degradation induced spectral changes without complete dye decomposition. Major colorants were consistently detected.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.927-934
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• 2014

Today Hanbok, the symbol of our nation's culture, has been preserved as cultural heritage despite natural and social environmental changes over years. This study is analyzing Hanbok which were taken in the National Skills Competition from 2000 to 2013; it presents our traditional stitching methods and clarifies the pride the Hanbok artisans have as inheriting the traditional heritage. Therefore this paper contributes to continuous and proper development of the culture of Hanbok and being loved by many people. The assignments about Hanbok featured in the National Skills Competition were categorized by national and local competition, time required to produce assignments, required amount of fabric, type of stitching, unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignment; according to the classification, methods for sewing were analyzed in detail. First, the national tournament presented 12 kinds of sewing techniques; especially hand-sewn stitching method appeared in common. Second, the unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignments had applied different sewing methods; double-stitching, flat fell seam, french seam, roll over sewing, blind stitch, right angle blind stitch, decorative saddle stitching, darning, etc. were used. Sewing methods in the 21st century has not changed over the years; the shape of clothes was changed upon trends. Sewing became easier than before by the invention of sewing machine, we should carry on our traditional sewing techniques. Through this analysis on sewing methods of the National Skills Competition, I hope to support competition participants for studying Hanbok and indicate proper sewing techniques.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.117-123
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• 2008

When it comes to clothing design, after the mid 20th century some internationally renowned designers began to recognize the pivotal role clothing materials play in attracting the hearts of customers. Accordingly, they started to take advantage of new clothing materials in the sector of clothing design. While the theme of fashionable clothing products shifts from style and color to clothing materials, fashion designers place the quality of materials at the center of clothing designs. Fashion designers also realize that good quality of materials should be used to boost the value of products as well as to satisfy the conditions of creativity, practicality and aesthetics. In particular, as the non-apparel industry in which clothing materials are the most important aspect between fashionable color, silhouette and details is enhancing their attention to develop various materials in order to meet the needs of customers, the fashion industry places a high premium on textile design which is the pinnacle of expressing emotion on clothing materials. In addition, the industry raises awareness of developing more sophisticated and differentiated materials. Our thesis covers the way how to apply $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern to clothing design on the basis of research. In order to put that research into practical use, we produced textiles which effectively display $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern. Before this process, we tried to ensure that radial grating created $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern effects. To this end, the weaving process was applied, depending on whether light can penetrate textiles or not. Then, we manufactured test-products using $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.22-33
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• 2018

The aim of the research study is to carve sustainable business strategies for the fashion communities in Ethiopia and Ukraine which are suffering today due to ever-increasing share of fast fashion consumerism. Fashion houses and international brands propagandize sustainability and consumption for better consumer base, where as originally sustainable local-based craftsmen still stay in the shade. Four communities/local designers are selected from the countries through the method of purposive sampling. Qualitative analysis is the basis of the research as we performed personal interviews and in-depth analysis of the communities to diagnose the problems and subsequently devise the solutions. In this research, we have studied and analyzed the problems faced by hereditary communities and ethnic designers in small and medium scale enterprise sector from two emerging economies. After the grounding the difficulties faced we advised strategies for sustainable future growth to the companies. The current academic literature on small and medium scale enterprises highlights the problems and solutions for general industry sectors. This paper brings attention to fashion communities and designers who promote national heritage and are struggling to survive in emerging economies due to industrialization and globalization. Moreover the comparison of the two geographies is unique in nature.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.762-776
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• 2020

This study tried to investigate the effect of the service quality attributes of the curation on the satisfaction, trust, and intention to continuous use of consumers in that curation services are derived in various forms and being greatly activated, there are not many academic discussions centered on them. Besides, differences between curation services by each service provider were also verified in this study. Data collection was conducted for one month in August 2019, with 373 men and women in their 20s. The results of the study are as follows. First, according to the result of investigating the variables that make effect on user satisfaction of curation service, it was identified that satisfaction has increased when figures of fulfillment, responsiveness, personalization, design, ease of use, and safety were higher. Second, among the variables that influence the reliability of the curation service, trust increases when user satisfaction, design, ease of use, and safety are higher. Third, satisfaction has a positive effect on trust, and both satisfaction and reliability affect the intention to continue use. Fourth, as a result of examining the difference in quality between the curation services divided by Curating subject, it was found that satisfaction, ubiquitous connectivity, and responsive quality were measured higher in the business operator service than in the user curation service.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.520-531
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• 2014

Jeju, the biggest island in Korea, was registered as a World Natural Heritage in 2007. Recently, it was also voted as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. The need for academic awareness and tourist values on Jeju Island are understood. Gal-ot, one of the ten symbols for Jeju, is known for working clothes in general, despite its potential for cultural products because of its regional uniqueness and useful functional advantages. The authors conducted a comprehensive literature review and researched market trends of Gal-ot stores in Jeju to present development directions for cultural goods and to contribute to local economic improvement. Most stores were located in a semi-residential area and Jeju-si in Jeju Special Self-Governing Province. Most products were not available for sale due to difficulties in the production process and online utilization. High prices and similar color, fabric and style hurt competitiveness. Various experiencing programs of Gal-ot and persimmon dyeing were necessary to expand the main target from residents to tourists. Also, marketing strategies using the internet and design plans reflecting current trends were needed. This study would contribute to prepare developmental projects of cultural product and result in economical advantages on Jeju Island.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.103-115
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• 2013

This study identifies how the luxury brand marketing mix affects customer equity drivers and suggests intangible equity management strategies so that companies can make long-term profits through luxury brands based on empirical studies of Korean luxury consumers. The results of the study are as follows: First, this study classified the properties that use 8 key factors (product integrity, heritage, exclusivity, premium image, environment and consumption experience, premium price, luxury communication strategy, and brand signature). Second, it shows that product integrity and luxury communication strategy have a positive effect on all customer equity drivers, that brand signature has a positive effect on value equity and brand equity, and that premium price has a negative effect on relation equity. It is important to provide products and services equipped with high quality and luxurious designs based on excellent craftsmanship in order to establish brand equity and value equity. Brand identity needs to be maintained and unique brand signatures need to be developed based on the long history of luxury brands against a traditional backdrop. A diversified communication strategy improves brand recognition while playing a part in facilitating brand association and brand image. In order to improve relationship equity, actions such as a loyalty program to strengthen brand loyalty, need to be taken as well as measures to maintain and enhance customer trust through a reasonable price strategy.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.351-363
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• 2015

This research explores diachronic fashion design trends through a structure analysis of a connection network based on fashion show concepts implemented by modern fashion designers from S/S 2009 to F/W 2013. The findings from this research are as follows. First, four categories affect the inspiration and thinking of design: the experience of the designer, social atmosphere and phenomena, natural sensitivity (or formative characteristics of natural objects), and the influence and quality of other fields. Second, in cases where the designers' experiences influenced design inspiration and thinking, designers express personal memories with keywords like high school, grandmother's closet, prom, beauty and the beast, heritage, past, and reminiscence through design elements such as lines, silhouettes, materials, and colors. Third, the representative example of the social atmosphere and phenomena that influenced design inspiration and thinking was the 2008 Global Financial Crisis that reflected the social climate through design concepts of keywords such as Recession, Black, Economy, US, Depression, Gray, Dark Age, White and New York. Fourth, inspired by nature and the formative characteristics in design, the designers employed ornamental elements to collections and design concepts that focused on nature words connected to light, sun, wild, dirt, rock, moss, and trees. Fifth, the designers took their ideas from different fields of personal interest in the arts, science and humanities (sports, architecture, sculpture, painting, and literature) that were decisive in determining materials, design colors and silhouettes. The theme of architecture was analyzed as a central element that had an ongoing impact on the concepts of designers.