• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.511-520
• /
• 2013

This study examines the development of knitwear design using environmentally friendly Hanji (Korean traditional handmade paper) yarn. While its environmentally friendly features make Hanji yarn suitable for eco-fashion design, Hanji products, generally produced in limited quantities, are highly unlikely to become a commercial success due to their high prices. Therefore, a new technology allowing the production of low-cost Hanji yarn is in high demand, as is its application across multiple products in addition to knitwear. The significance of this study lies in that it suggests ways to design knitwear which reflect the versatility of modern eco-fashion to meet the needs of consumers. This study presents knitwear designs, specifically party wear and everyday fashion, that utilize the advantages of Hanji yarn and represent 2013 S/S color trends. Two outfits will be featured - one for women in their 20s and 30s and the other for women in their 30s and 40s. Also, this paper includes a literature review and an accounting of online research on Hanji yarn and eco-fashion designs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.197-206
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
• /
• v.43 no.4
• /
• pp.59-66
• /
• 2011

This study was carried out to develop the automation bark peeling process of paper mulberry for making Hanji. Nowadays, almost raw material has been imported from south-east asia for making Hanji. Raw material dependence is very high for Hanji-making by low productivity in korea. This study is focused on the resolution for problem of bark peeling automation. Water and sand jet of compressed air was possible bark peeling for black bast fiber. The effect of removing black bast fiber increased the longer the steaming time. Also using drum of bark peeling showed that results under temperature $80^{\circ}C$ and Rpm 50/min were best bark peeling and separating bast fiber from stem. The contents of holocellulose, lignin, ethanol-benzene extractives, and ash were 91.63~95.55%, 1.4~2.0%, 1.12~1.65%, and 1.4~4.3%, respectively. Chemical characteristics are similar between imported raw-material with drum bark.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
• /
• v.43 no.1
• /
• pp.74-82
• /
• 2011

The bast fiber of Paper mulberry has been generally used as a fibrous raw material in traditional Hanji-making. Nowadays, its uses is expanded to different special purposes such as paper mulberry yarn, laminated paper, antimicrobial paper depending on its application. Despite the wide array of the use of mulberry fibers, it is still limited due to some difficulties in the automation process of manufacturing works. This study is focused on the analysis of chemical components and morphological properties of paper mulberry bark for the automation of bark peeling process. The bast tissue of paper mulberry was separated in three plies; black outer layer, green inner layer, and white inner layer. The total lignin content, holocelluloses, extractives and ashes, and the anatomical structure of the three layers in mulberry bark tissue were investigated. The analysis showed that the black outer layer is composed of about 50% of total lignin content, whereas the white inner layer is composed of about 90% of holocellulose content.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.149-163
• /
• 2011

Hanjisa(Korean paper yarn), a new material made from the traditional Korean paper, has been developed through local R&D efforts, reflecting the current trend highly valuing environmental friendly. This new material is considered suitable for the 21C lifestyle and culture pursuing improved quality of human life and the environment. Therefore, this study aims to widely make known the originality and functions of the environmentally friendly Korean paper yarn, as well as to increase its commercial value. Furthermore, a new category of apparel design is presented by studying painting dyeing based on transformational tuck techniques and wax resist dyeing with formative features of repeated lines and rhythms of shells in order to implement three-dimensional and decorative artistic expressions. The texture of the Korean cotton paper yarn was particularly suitable to employ tuck and dyeing techniques Which express formative features of shell. Also, the material was useful for expressing the three-dimensional feelings with repeated curves and cross sections of shells. Moreover, paraffin resist dyeing and stitch techniques were used in order to avoid monotony and the images of shells visually materialized. Through the results stated above, this study could explore how to overcome obstacles to globalization of the Korean modern apparel such as its uniqueness, limit of materials or absense of internationality by applying modern design to the Korean paper fabrics. In the future, it is expected that more manufactures could produce and supply the new materials so as to make widely known the originality of the Korean paper fabrics and develop the material into a popular organic product fitting the modern lifestyle.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
• /
• v.45 no.1
• /
• pp.75-82
• /
• 2013

The traditional Hanji-making was confronted with lots of industrial disadvantages and economic problems, due to the original hand-made process. Recently, the studies on the automation of overall Hanji manufacturing process is carried out by applying the commercial chemical pulping method in order to expand industrial application or efficiency of non-wood fibrous materials. However, the application of commercial pulping methods to the bast tissues of paper mulberry leads to the chemical and mechanical deterioration of cellulosic fibers. In this study, the optimal cooking method using the bast parts of paper mulberry produced by an auto-scraping device was applied to minimize the damage of fiber strength for the paper yarn manufacture. The pre-steaming treatment and alkaline pulping systems were evaluated in removal efficiency of lignin and pectin materials within the bast tissue of paper mulberry. With the application of pre-steaming treatment and 2 stage pulping system using potassium carbonate and then sodium hydroxide, kappa values were decreased two times more in lignin removal than the single stage of pulping method. It was also identified from SEM images and ATR-FTIR spectra that the pectin components within cellular structure of bast tissue were easily removed and the debarked bast parts by a auto-scraping device were easily defiberized by 2-stage pulping sequence using potassium carbonate/sodium hydroxide pulping system.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.23 no.5
• /
• pp.861-871
• /
• 2014

This study explored applicability of natural dyeing and functional property of base paper using paper yarn and fabrics with green laver extracts. As a result of measuring dyeability and functional property of cotton, silk, and a blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, $60^{\circ}C$ and 40 minutes was the optimal dyeing condition for the cotton fabric under an alkali condition; $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for the silk fabric; $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 minutes for the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry. As a result of measuring the color fastness after dyeing cotton, silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, fastness to washing, water, rubbing, dry cleaning and light was superior. In terms of functional property, the silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry were superior concerning antimicrobial properties of the fabric dyed with green laver extracts while the cotton fabric showed 90% or over. Regarding deodorization, the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry was the most superior. All the fabrics were harmless to the human body as they had heavy metal content below the standard. Considering the research results comprehensively, the green laver extracts possibly has enough applicability and functional property as a natural dyes. Moreover, it has potential to be developed new eco-friendly fashion materials.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.38 no.3
• /
• pp.243-253
• /
• 2022

Using non-destructive analytical methods, we identified the material characteristics of two gold fabric artifacts excavated from the Cheongsong Sim clan (Bugeum Wonsam, Jikgeum Chima), including the artifact condition, fiber type, surface contamination, and metallic threads. We found that the artifacts were buried and had turned brown; thus, we were unable to determine their original color. The fiber type was determined to be silk from cocoons, based on scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) analyses of Amide I, II, III, and IV peaks, and color reactions Further, the FT-IR and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analyses identified the white and black stains as natural resin hydrolyzed substances, such as lipids and proteins, that occurred as microbial decomposition due to body decay. Finally, the XRF analyses identified the thin gold layer of the metallic yarn as gold (Au). According to the FT-IR data and the color reaction to the metallic yarn medium, the adhesive component of the medium was a product of-Amides I, II, III, and 3000 cm^-1 within Amides A and B (an animal type), respectively. Thus, the medium was identified as Hanji (Korean paper), which is made from domestically produced Broussonetia kazinoki fibers.