• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제18호
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• pp.413-444
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• 2009

본고에서는 1795년 화성 행궁에서 정조의 어머니 혜경궁 홍씨의 회갑을 맞아 열린 봉수당진찬의 의례와 악무를 "원행을묘정리의궤(園行乙卯整理儀軌)" 및 "정조실록", "홍재전서(弘齋全書)"등의 봉수당진찬 의례기록과 <화성능행도병>등의 도상자료, 일기체의 한글가사 작품인 이희평(李羲平)의 <화성일기(華城日記)>등의 자료를 중심으로 분석하여 무대와 공연요소 중심으로 고찰하였다. 잔치의 주인공에게 충(忠)과 효(孝)의 의미를 담은 음악과 춤, 꽃과 음식, 술과 글을 예를 갖춰 올리는 궁중연향은 예악(禮樂)의 원리에 바탕을 둔 국가의례로서 조선왕조 500년 동안 고유한 음악문화를 형성해왔다. 그러나 조선왕조가 막을 내리면서 '예'라는 상징적이며 총체적인 틀 안에서 상호 유기적인 관계에 놓여있던 연례의 음악과 춤들이 개별 악곡과 춤으로 해체되어 '작품화'되었고. 궁중음악과 춤의 철학이나 원리, 시공간에 대한 이해는 현저히 축소된 채, 음악과 춤의 전통은 형식과 예술적 표현 중심으로 변화해왔다. 1990년대 이후, 궁중의례 전통의 재현(再現)을 목적에 둔 연구와 행사가 추진되면서, 이와 연관된 공연예술 활동도 점차 증가하고 있는 추세이며, 특히 봉수당진찬은 다양한 방식으로 현대무대화 하고 있다. 그러나 원전(原典)의 재현(再現) 및 복원(復原) 문제, 완성도 및 예술성에 대한 문제는 과제로 남아있으며, 지금까지는 "원행을묘정리의궤"에 수록된 의주의 외형적 재현에 관심을 두었을 뿐, 무대조건이나 공연요소에 중점을 둔 심도있는 분석은 부족하였다고 판단하였다. 이에 본 연구에서 무대구성과 공연요소 중심으로 분석해 본 결과, 조선시대 궁중연향 중에서 유일하게 '행궁'에서 개최된 봉수당진찬은 '예악의 정치'를 의례와 악무로 구현하는 궁중연향의 기본적인 면모를 보여주면서도 '군신동락(君臣同樂)'의 친화의 비중이 높은 연향이었음을 밝혔다. 내연과 외연의 성격이 섞인 봉수당진찬에서는 가림막을 최소화하여 신분의 차서(次序)와 남녀유별(男女有別)의 원리를 충족시키면서도 삼면에 둘러친 휘장 안에 외빈의 자리를 마련함으로써 술과 음식, 음악과 춤을 다 같이 공유하도록 배치되었다. 또한, 연향공간의 상징성을 내포한 차일을 백관들의 공간에 치고, 임금이 솔선하여 선찬(膳饌)과 산화(散華)를 명함으로써 군신동연(君臣同宴)의 의미와 범위를 확장시킨 점을 알 수 있었다. 이는 봉수당진찬이 '예악의 원리'가 강하게 드러나는 여느 궁중 연향에 비해 '정(情)'을 나누는 화친(和親)에 기반을 두었음을 알 수 있었다. 또한, 봉수당진찬에서는 여느 내연에서보다 임금의 역할과 비중이 높았으며, 특히 의주 외의 기록으로 전하는 여러 가지 상황 - 7작 이후에 정조가 신하들을 가까이 불러 나눈 대화, 신하들에게 음식과 꽃을 내림, 잔치를 주제로 직접 시를 짓고, 신하들에게도 이에 화답하게 한 일 등-은 의주에 따른 단선적인 연향의 진행에 변화를 주고, 연향의 의미를 확장시키는데 한 몫 하였다. 이밖에, 봉수당진찬의 주악과 정재의 구성을 분석해 본결과 연향에서 여러 인물들의 대화와 움직임이 매우 절제된 것은 여느 궁중연향과 비슷하지만, 춤과 음악을 통해 구현된 소리와 색채감은 매우 다채로웠다는 점을 알 수 있었다. 봉수당진찬에서는 정조 이전에 치러진 내연에 비해 다양한 종류의 정재를 상연하였고, 이 중에는 새롭게 초연된 레퍼토리도 있었으며, 또 기존의 공연을 새롭게 재구성한 것도 포함되어 있었다. 특히 <선유락>이나 <검무> 등, 지방 관아 및 민간의 레퍼토리를 궁중연향으로 수용한 점, 풍류방에서 즐겨 연주되기 시작한 생황을 <학무> 와 연계한 것은 전통적인 규범과 관습에 매이지 않고 새로운 것을 받아들이는 궁중연향의 '열린구조'를 보여준다는 점에서 시사하는 바가 크다.