• Title/Summary/Keyword: Han-bok style

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A Study of the 'Hobokko' (I) (호복고 독해 연구(1))

  • Park, Chun-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.7
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    • pp.60-75
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    • 2008
  • A history of Chinese Costume is that of the accept and the struggle between the 'Shen- Yi' of Han(漢) race and 'Ho-Bok' of foreign races. There are the 'Shen-Yi Ko' and the 'Ho-Bok Ko' in their representative documentary. They are quite significant materials for the researchers of the Oriental costume. The purpose of this study about comparing and analyzing the 'Shen-Yi Ko' and the 'Ho-Bok Ko' give a guidance to Chinese costume's researchers. The results of study are as follows: The 'Shen-Yi', having made a dress joined an upper to the low clothing together(上衣下裳) and deeply covered the parts of all the bodies, was named, had appeared the Spring-Autumn & warring state period(春秋戰國時代) and later the former Han Dynasty(前漢). Not only everyone in spite of men and women, without distinction of rank, high and low alike but also even the court dress(朝服) and from latter Han Dynasty(後漢) only the housewives could have worn it. The 'Shen- Yi Ko' disappeared its records and remains and at present nothing leave behind. The 'Ho-Bok' is a costume of the nomadic horse-riding people among the foreign races, then influenced upon the Chinese costume. The style of the Chinese costume consists of 'Yi Sang'(衣裳) and the 'Ho-bok' of foreign races, 'Yi Ko'(衣袴). The 'Yi Ko'((衣袴), derived from the King Muryoung of Cho Dynasty, had greatly been changed the chinese men's clothing and After that 'Ko Sup'(袴褶). The Chinese have enjoyably and familiarly the accepted 'Ho Bok' for a long time.

A study on the origination and Transmission of Yu in Northeast Asia. -from the 4th Century to the 8th Century- (동북(東北)아시아 유의 기원(起源)과 그 교류(交流)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -$4{\sim}8$세기(世紀)를 중심(中心)으로-)

  • Cho, Sun-Hee;Park, Kyung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.17
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    • pp.29-43
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    • 1991
  • Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

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A Study on the Practical Korea Costume for men (한국 생활화를 위한 디자인 개발에 관한 연구 -남성 일상복을 중심으로-)

  • 이태옥
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.21
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    • pp.177-192
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    • 1993
  • The purpose of this study is to present de-sign development and constructive method on man's Hanbok which can be put on daily-life clothing through supplementing the incon-venience of HanBok and to make men put on daily-life-HanBok through making the HanBok ready-made clothing which has lower-price. The concrete test and its process on devel-oped design are below. (1) In present there are five uncomfortable point waist closing baji's slitting and daenim (2) Developed the first design concentrating on uncomfortable parts with Korean costume-pattern (3) to supplement sleeve armhole and waist closing which are pointed out as the incon-venience at first design development did the second design development. The results through research and process are below. (1) In the functional test of testing clothing a testee is satisfied with jegory's closing at 87. 5% with pocket at 100% and with baji's front closing and daenim (2) The opinion of an observer on daily-life Hanbok is an affirmative response as following turns: traditional aspect practical use and aesthetic aspect. (3) Analyzing the relations between the characters of daily-life hanbok and the popu-lation density variables results are the popu-lation density variable results are followed below. Man has highe points than woman on asthetic and economical aspect. In preferences as educational levels more-educated person has an affirmative response on keeping traditions. In jobs students and white-collar people have affirmative responses on traditions. (4) What one wants to wear the most is the fourth Hanbok(mixing western and Korean costume style with Korean costume fabrics) and daily-life Hanbok with western costume fabrics has 51.8% preferences of responsers. With those results man's daily-life HanBok made through the first and the second design development lessens the inconvenience of Hanbok with some degrees. Also if daily-life Hanbok design continue to be developed through using Korean costume fabrics and western costume fabrics people can easily by functional and practical daily-life Hanbok because it can be massproduced.

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A Study on the Culture and Clothing Behavior of Chunghahk Village (청학동의 문화와 의복행동에 관한 연구)

  • 이경화;한명숙
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.61-72
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    • 2001
  • Chunghahk-dong is located in a retired spot, Jiri Mountain and has been built up its won religion and culture without any exchange outside world. People in Chunghahk-dong believe in a religion called Genjungyutaosim. Forming a trinity on which mind is Taoism, body is Buddhism, and behavior is confucianism. These are the principle elements to form a village. They made their own unique cultural factor such as longhaired boys and girls, wearing traditional cloths and hat, a monastic life, folk mores and family rituals, and private school system. This shows a great deal of affection on their life style and organization and is closely connected with community and culture. Grasping a culture and behavior on clothing, it has propose to understand Chunghahk-dong properly according to this study. A method of study has a purpose to understand culture and clothing behavior precisely in Chunghahk-dong. I inquire ito clothing behavior with investigation and study of picture script. The results are as followed; People in Chunghahk-dong show unique clothing and hair style behavior based on Genjungyutao. First, men and women wear a white cloth called HanBok(Korean costume) and footwear made of rubber. Only men wear a blue vest. A grown up men wear a long coat when they go out. They are dressed in tractional cloth for a ceremonial occasion. The reason why they put on the HanBok(Korean costume) is a belief on our traditional cloth becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea become a leading country in the world. This clothing behavior is symbol of Genjungyutao and has a role of delivery system for expressing their split. Second, In sign of being a Genjungyutao men, they let their grow hair. Cutting hair is not to be a Genjungyutao men any more. There is few reason that people in Chunghahk-dong let grow their hair : First, because of importance in TanGun's ideology, they believe Korea is a first nation in the world and can't cut their hair which has grown from TanGun (The founding father of the Koran nation) Chosun traditionally. Second, Cutting their hair runs counter to the principle of nature. Third, They value their body for confucianism. They don't want to damage their body because of body from their parents. Boys and girls braid and tie up their hair and adult tie a topknot and a chignon. Wearing a YouGun(A horsehair skullcap) at home and Kat(A Korean top hat) when going out, they express as a Genjungyutao. Hemp cloth and synthetic fibers are main clothes. Also, they wear an improved HanBok(Korean costume) these days on influence outside.

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The Development of Local Festival Costumes in Andong (안동지역 축제의상 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Hee-Sook
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.19 no.1
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this research is to industrialize and to localize traditional culture resources of Andong by developing festival costumes related to 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. We tried several methods to deliver meanings and images of festival costumes, as followings. Frist, from April, 2009 to October, 2012, we created the new design of the festival costumes after consulting with 7 festival experts about the conditions and characteristics of 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. The festival costume design is characterized by the detachable parts of clothing based on Han-bok style, the front and back of bodice, right and left side of both sleeves, and pockets, which can be tied up with strings. Therefore the consumers can choose and attach the part they want. Secondly, the newly created festival costumes were evaluated appropriately to the consumer's satisfaction, implementation, practicality, and long-term development possibility according to the survey of 85 participants who were, in fact, wearing the festival costumes in the festival. The results are as follows: Frist, festival costumes are based on Korean traditional costumes, and it appears wearing object as festival costumes. Secondly, traditional beauty and modern beauty are well matched up, so men and women of all ages are possible to wear. Thirdly, size of costume can be controlled, so it's easy to wear. Finally, construction method is very simple. The possibility of long-term development by various material development is needed.

The Actual Conditions, Problems and Design Preferences of Dementia Inpatient Clothing (치매환자복의 실태와 문제점 및 디자인 선호도 분석)

  • Ryou, Eun-Jeong;Park, Hye-Won
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.618-626
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    • 2006
  • This research explored the actual conditions, problems and design preferences of dementia inpatient clothing. Data were collected by surveying 21 dementia hospitals and nursing care facilities and 87 caregivers and nurses of dementia hospitals. The collected data were analysed through frequency analysis, descriptive analysis and factor analysis. The results were as follows, First, the inpatient clothes of dementia hospitals were two-piece styles, the shirts of front opening with buttons and pants of no opening with elastic band. Those of dementia care facilities were two piece styles of shirts and pants, training suits or private plain clothes not uniform. Severe dementia inpatient dressed uniforms of the jump suits or two piece styles in some dementia care facilities. Second, the problems of dementia inpatient clothing were composed of suitability of raw and subsidiary clothing material, diversity of design and size, durability and form stability of clothes and elastic bands. Third, the design elements similar to those of existing inpatient clothing were preferred with regard to improving dementia inpatient clothing. That is, the design preferences of shirts showed front opening style with buttons, round neckline and a three-quarter-length sleeves. Those of pants came out no opening style with elastic band and full length. Also, pink color and natural patterns were preferred, and the private plain clothing of inpatient and fusion Han-bok style were somewhat preferred.

Bibliographical Considerations of Cooking Recorded in the 18th Century Document 「Japji」 (18세기 고문헌 「잡지」에 기록된 조리에 관한 문헌적 고찰)

  • Han, Bok-Ryo;Kim, Gwi-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.27 no.3
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    • pp.304-315
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    • 2012
  • "Japji" was an old cookbook written in 1721. There are 27 types of foods recorded in "Japji"; 10 descriptions of Byeonggwaryu (rice cakes and cookies): Yakgwa, Junggye, Mandugwa, Chaesugwa, Umujeonggwa, Dongajeonggwa, Baekjapyeon, Aengdupyeon, Toranbyeong, and Yeot; and 16 descriptions of Chanpumryu (side dishes): Jinjumyeon, Jeunggyetang, Geumjungtang, Eoreumtang, Changjajjim, Gajijjim, Oejjim, Dubuseon, Dubuneureumi, Geneureumi, Gesanjeok, Hodojaban, Jeonyak, Seokryutang, Sungeojuak, and Yangmandu. There is also a description of Gugija (Chinese wolfberry) liquor. Here, comparative analysis based on culinary science was carried out on the Korean foods recorded in "Japji" as well as the similar foods recorded in "Gyuhapchongseo" (Women's Encyclopedia) written around 1815. Of the 27 types of Korean foods recorded in "Japji", 13 were also found recorded in "Gyuhapchongseo". The time period for "Japji" can be assumed to be 1721 based on the fact that it is written in a cursive handwriting style of Hangeul, that chili was never used as an ingredient, and that the word "Shinchuknyeon (辛丑年)" was transcribed at the beginning of the book. The dating method also included considerations of whether Neureumi was used or not as well as changes in its cooking style.

A Semiotic Analysis on 1930 s Costume -On Woman Character in the Novels- (1930년대 복식의 기호학적 분석 -신문소설의 여주인공을 중심으로-)

  • 조진숙
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.4 no.3
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    • pp.407-426
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    • 1996
  • The study, "a semiotic analysis on 1930′s costume", is based on semiotic theory which analyze the meaning of signs. In the novels, "흙" and "삼대", character′s costume were used as a visual language that implies massages of character′s status, class, and the view of value. Analyzing the meaning of clothing signs, clothing could deliver the people′s informations to others and could be first things when people accept new value. The object of the studies are the novels, Hulk(흙) and Samdae(삼대) which are written by lee, Kwang-Soo and Yeom, Sang-Seob. In the novels, the social structure is classed as modern and traditional after we accept the western cultures and institutions. The traditional clothing, Han Bok, were dressed by the conservative woman. However, we could find the modernized woman dress with the western dress and the modified traditional style. According to the result of the research, we could find that clothing could be a sign which indicates value and also clothing is one of the first thing to change when people acquired new value.

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A wedding dress design that applies the traditional dang-ui (당의(唐衣)를 활용한 웨딩드레스 디자인)

  • Jung, Yangsook;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.27 no.2
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    • pp.140-153
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    • 2019
  • The aim of this study is to develop new wedding dress designs by blending the traditional female Korean upper garment of Han-bok, known as dang-ui, with Western-style wedding dress designs. For this research, the author considered the various types of wedding dresses and their historical development based on literary resources and previous studies of the subject. The results are as follows: first, this study featured the use of different types of fabric for the dang-ui, selected from the various fabrics available for wedding dresses. Starting from the basic design of a sleeveless and strapless princess-line tight top, three different styles of A-line dresses were created: a tiered long dress, an unbalanced tiered midi dress, and a spangled and pleated mini dress. The study also resulted in a tight H-line mini dress with a bustle. In this way, the author was able to suggest new wedding dress styles that are well suited to the cultural trend of the Korean wave. Second, the traditional Korean dang-ui is an elegant ceremonial garment that harmonizes well with Western-style wedding dresses. Satisfaction can be found from combining these creative fusion gowns with traditional Korean aesthetics. Third, the traditional Korean ceremonial coronet jokduri and veil, which go well with dang-ui wedding dresses, are suitable accessories for contemporary wedding dresses. The dang-ui wedding dress, a result of merging the Korean dang-ui and the Western style, will help enhance business for both the Korean and the international wedding industry thanks to an aesthetic that has global appeal.

A Study on Dan-Ryong (단령에 관한 연구)

  • Lim Jae Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.31-42
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    • 1984
  • This paper is a research on the origins and the developing process of $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ centering on the change of its form. From the beginning of A. D era Central Asia had played the important role of a traffic route connecting China and its western adjacent world. Through this route $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ was introduced into China (South-North Dynasty era). The form of $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ in early period was Ban-Gum-Po (Open-collared costume that turn down the collar to the outside), and it could be worn close-collared or open-collared. From the fact that the people who wore $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ in early period were mainly Iranian and that it was also worn by lower class like a waiting maid, it can be said that $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ was not the costume of Han race. In early period the motif of the inside of collar was Persian style, and the people of central Asia was mostif Iranian. In short, $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ was the costum of the people lived in the adjacent world west of China, particulary Iranians. The form of $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ changed from Ho-Bok to Ban-Gum-Po owing to the differences in climate. In conclusion, $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ originated in Ho-Bok ana was introduced into the world west of china by the movement of Horrse-riding Race. Then its form was changed owing to the factors like climate, natural and cultural features, and consepuently it was introduced into China by way of Centeral Asia. In China it was settled as $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ through the ages of T'ang dynasty, Sung dynasty, Ming dynasty.

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