• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2002

The following paper deals with the interaction between an Austrian art trend from the late 19th century until World War I, the Vienna Separatist Movement, and the Vienna Workshop dress and its ornaments in part designed by the artists belonging to the former mentioned school. Gustav Klimt′s paintings along with his photographs and pictures and articles published in the "Wiener Mode" magazine were subject of analysis. The focus was on Klimt′s paintings with female themes whereby a comparative analysis was made between the development of the forms, hues and ornaments of clothing and the style of paintings at that time. The whole development was classified into three phases. The first period from 1897∼1905 marks the birth of the Vienna Separatists along with the clothing reform movement. The heyday of the Separatists represents the second phase from 1906∼1913 and the decline of the very school and the Vienna Workshop period lasts from 1913∼1918. Refromed dresses were started to be recognized as alternatives, from 1897 when the Separatists started to gain foot until 1o05, and Kimt and Van de Velde published designs that were comfortable and elegant. From 1906 to 1913 the expressionism and Reform Mode of the Vienna artists started to flourish. But during the War the Separatist Movement, which triggered the modernazation of Vienna declined and instead the decorative art of Vienna Workshops started to develop. The asymmetric design of the dress, exotic patterns, shades of complementary colors and reformed clothing were frequently used by Kimt and other Separatists. This is an instance where fashion design directly influenced art and different branches can reflect the same aesthetic standards within the same time frame.