• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.140-155
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• 2009

This study tries to find out the special twine technique of flat string and refers to historical documents, records, artifacts of excavated articles, and real materials. In Japan weaved cloth is called Jomul or Jonue and these methods were brought to Japan from Korea during Aska Period(645${\sim}$710) and Nara Period(710${\sim}$794). Among those knot methods, the 1/1 knot was written as a Shillajo on a documentary record at Heian Period, Engisik, and Samdaesillok which is a historic document from King Saiya to King Gowooko(858${\sim}$887). Also 2/2 knot weaving was recorded as Goryeojo that the technique originated for a long time in Japan. During the Joseon Dynasty, Gunmok was written as Dahoi, and Gwangdahoe, which means wide and flat Gunmok, was the name of Dae(Belt). The frame for the twine Gwangdahoe is no longer in Korea, but only can be found in Japan as a Goraiwoochi loom for Shillajo and Goryeojo from Korea. There are currently artifacts by the techniques of Shillajo and Goryeojo that were excavated in 15${\sim}$17C in Korea. Therefore this study was looked into the artifacts from 6${\sim}$8C in $Sh{\"{O}}so$-in, and the features of Dae (Belt) weaved by Shillajo and Goryeojo case method. Gwangdahoe excavated artifacts in the mid Jeosun Dynasty was restored by the process of Goryeojo weaving method.