• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.191-213
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• 2023

Romans in the fifth and sixth centuries BC referred to the people who brought silk from the Far East via the pre-Han (漢) silk road as "Seres". The Seres' colorful silk was characterized by intricate patterns and high yarn density, markedly different than thin "China silk". This study examined geographic and genealogic records and linguistic evidence and found support for the syllogistic conclusion that the "Seres" were the early Silla people. The Seres' territory in the seventh century BC was much larger than that of the Qin (秦) or Zhou (周), extending from Xinjiang to Balhae. According to literature records, Dong-Yi (東夷) invented Geum (錦) silk in the 11th century BC around Balhae, where silkworm trees were abundant. In the Han dynasty, even thin silk was rare and expensive, but in Gojoseon (古朝鮮), Geum silk was common and less valuable than beads. The Silla delivered surplus Geum silk, fur, and high-quality iron to the West. Linguistic evidence includes historical names for Silla: "Sira," "Saro," and "Sere," as well as records naming King Ruri of Silla "Seri-Ji"; and the replacement of the word "Seres" by the word "Silk" from the Goguryeo word for "yarn winder": "sil-kkury".

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.74-82
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• 2006

In ancient China, Su(綬) was the ornament of the full dress. It had originated from tying the jade or another thing before Jen(秦:Qin) dynasty and it tied the imperial jade seal and the chop from Han dynasty. Su of Han dynasty was different in the inscape, colour, length and density according to the grade. And the shape was the straight line. But these phenomena were changed after Han dynasty. This study showed how it changed. To studying used the comparison method of literature records, paintings and archeological relics. It mostly studied imperial Su. Su of Han dynasty of the high grade was formed by Yeok, the circle type jade and Su(Su moaned whole Su, at the same time moaned the part of Su, too). Afterward, Yeok was changed into Small Su[小綬] and Su was changed into Big Su(大綬). Originally the circle type jade was connecting Yeok to Su, but it was changed into tying Small Su only. Su of Han dynasty used the four kinds of colour, but from Su(隋: Sui) dynasty used the six kinds of colour. Originally Su was interlacing, but it was changed into the silk fabric from Song[宋] dynasty. According to using silk fabric's Su, it was likely to disappear the system distinguishing the grade by length. And it kept the method of interlacing the reticulation in the low part of silk fabric's Su. So, after using silk fabric's Su, the system of the density was not about the main body but about the reticulation. Su was been used woven with supplementary golden wefts, too. The circle type jade was chiseled the dragon and cloud from Geum[金:Jin] dynasty. These not the pattern of silk fabrics.