• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.444-451
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• 2013

This paper surveys the physical properties of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid air-jet textured yarns(ATY) for protective garments according to wet and dry texturing conditions. Aramid and nylon filaments were used to make two kinds of para-aramid ATY and four kinds of aramid/nylon hybrid ATY with dry and wet treatments. The analyzed physical properties of six specimens (made on the ATY machine) are as follows. The tenacity and initial modulus of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY decreased with the wetting and breaking strain; however, the yarn linear density of aramid and hybrid ATY increased with wetting treatment. The dry and wet thermal shrinkage of the hybrid ATY increased with wetting. The stability of aramid and hybrid ATY also increased with wetting. The physical properties of core/effect type hybrid ATY showed significantly more change than the core type hybrid ATY and the physical properties of nylon/aramid core/effect hybrid ATY showed significantly more change than the of aramid/nylon core/effect hybrid ATY. A higher bulky and breaking strain of hybrid ATY require ATY processing conditions of nylon on the core part with wetting and aramid on the effect part. ATY processing conditions for nylon and aramid on the core part with wetting are required for a higher tenacity and modulus. ATY processing conditions of nylon and aramid on the core with no wetting are required for a low thermal shrinkage.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.437-443
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• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid air jet textured filaments for protective garments relative to ATY nozzle diameters. Three types of para-aramids(840d, 1,000d, 1,500d) and nylon(420d) filaments were prepared; in addition, 840d aramid/420d nylon and three kinds of aramid filaments were texturized with a variation of air jet nozzle diameters(0.6, 0.75, 1 and 1.2 mm) on the AIKI air jet texturing machine. The measured physical properties of 16 specimens are as follows. The linear densities of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY increased with a larger nozzle diameter. The tenacity and initial modulus of aramid and hybrid ATY linearly decreased with a larger nozzle diameter; in addition, the breaking strain increased with the nozzle diameter. The dry and wet thermal shrinkage of hybrid ATY increased with a larger nozzle diameter from 0.6 mm to 1 mm and then decreased at a nozzle diameter of 1.2 mm (which seems to be a critical diameter). The wet and dry thermal shrinkage of aramid/nylon hybrid ATY are influenced by the nylon part of the hybrid yarns because the wet and dry thermal shrinkages of aramid ATY are less than 0.2%. The instabilities of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY were not influenced by the air jet nozzle diameter; however, they increased with the linear density of ATY.

• Management & Information Systems Review
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.87-108
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• 2018

This article explores the international trade flow of Bangladesh's ready-made garments (RMG). We first suggest the brief history and an international structure of trade among countries by using the trade volume. Then we implemented a gravity model regression with the sample of 38 major partner countries in order to investigate the potential export market for the RMG industry. The fixed effect and random effect model for the panel data during the period of 1990 to 2011 are estimated. Our result shows that Bangladesh's RMG exports are affected positively by the size of economy, inflation, exchange rate, foreign direct investment(FDI) and trade openness. On the other hand, the distance between trading partners are related negatively with the trade volume. We used the estimated coefficients from the panel regression in order to predict RMG export potential of Bangladesh. This might show which country is the promising export market for Bangladesh RMG industry. We found that Bangladesh has the highest potential of RMG export with Japan and USA, which seem to have considerable room for export growth if trade barriers and constraints are removed. We added some policy implications for encouraging the RMG export of Bangladesh by using the results from the analysis.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.168-177
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate sustainable fashion flows and to outline their characteristics by analysing Esthetica as the largest trade-based sustainable fashion exhibition in the UK. Most of the researchers have focused on its ethical meaning rather than on fashionable criteria or marketable value. This pioneer work could be helpful in order to plan and study sustainable fashion flows. The research method is to identify characteristics of sustainable fashion trends through literature reviews and case studies focused on the UK, Esthetica events and participating brands. The following results were obtained. Upcycling suggests the extension of a product's lifecycle, a trend on the increase. Transparency is the crucial issue in sustainable fashion. Estethica shows that nurturing sustainable brands is one effective way of boosting the sustainable industry, as well as encouraging the production of sustainable products. Sustainable fashion has come to be included in mainstream fashion in terms of aesthetics and commercial competitiveness. Finally, sustainable fashion highlights quality of garments. Thus, Esthetica shows the present of sustainable fashion and its future, that is, sustainable fashion not just as a trend but a lifestyle for both its consumers and the industry. As the sustainable industry is a growing sector, it would be useful to carry out separate in-depth case studies on leading sustainable brands and qualitative aspects.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1023-1035
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• 2008

This study conducted a survey to find out dermatitis patients' preferred garment performance and their sentiment in spring/summer knitwears. SPSS 12.0 program was used for factor analysis, frequency analysis, T-test, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; First, in garments, patients required 'health hygiene', 'practicality in use care', 'skin contact' and 'easy movement'. Especially, 'skin contact' is an important property to be considered in patients' clothes. Second, in garment sensitivity, patients importantly considered 'modesty', 'feminine', 'boldness', 'decency', 'easy movement', 'youth', and 'simplicity'. Third, patients preferred simple and modest plain knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. And especially, dot pattern in knitwears should be avoided. Fourth, the preferred style of patients was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease.' They also preferred 'front closed,' ; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib'. Male preferred simple and plain style with round collar of 'tubular trim' and 'rib trim', while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with setin sleeve.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.237-246
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze short sleeve cycling tops from three brands for a change in garment fit and pressure depending on the static and cycling postures. To this end, it used a 3D virtual garment system to virtualize the garments. Further, a cross-section of the 3D virtual garment data was obtained, and the space length was measured in the design-X program to prove the objectivity of the 3D virtual garment. The results indicated that three brands had a large space length at the front than the back because of the bent posture in cycling. Therefore, appropriate ease was required for the waist and abdomen. Although there were various cutting lines of the bodice panel by brand, the design of the cutting lines should consider the changes in the surface to reflect the bent posture in cycling. The results of this experiment confirmed that the wrinkles present in the 3D virtual garment were reflected in the cross-section and that the space length was small in the high-stress area, as shown in red. Therefore, it was proven the stress of the 3D virtual garment could be used for 3D virtual garment evaluation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.71-78
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• 2014

Composite draw textured yarns(DTY) and air jet textured yarns(ATY) with hollow PET filament have been used for making high emotional fabrics including light weight sports wear garments. This study investigated effect of hollow composite yarns and fabric structural parameters to the comfort properties related to the moisture and thermal transport phenomena for the composite fabrics made of DTY and ATY with hollow PET filament. Wicking property of hollow composite fabric was superior at the high pore size fabric and was not influenced by fabric cover factor. Wicking property of the fabric with ATY was better than that of the fabric with DTY. On the other hand, drying rate of fine pore sized fabric was shorter than that of large pore sized fabric and drying rate of high multi yarn fabric with low cover factor and small pore size was superior than that of hollow composite fabric. The pore size of the fabric was dominant factor in the air permeability and thermal conductivity of hollow composite fabric. High pore sized fabric showed high air permeability and thermal conductivity of hollow composite fabric was nonlinearly inversely proportional to pore size of the fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.289-304
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• 1998

In Korean clothing industry, most of the manufactures produce garments by subcon-tractors partially or entirely. It is very often that the design part is remote from production part and there is miscommunication between these two parts resulting dissatisfaction to both. Therefore it is very important to communicate the manufacturing information clearly and quickly to produce garments exactly the design part intended. Also to automate the clothing out how to produce and use the information objectively and efficiently. As a first step of moving to automation, the purpose of the research is to find out how manufacturing information and data are communicated in clothing manufacturing at present. In order to follow the information flow of a cer-tain manufacturer, the case study method was used. The case study samples were 12 clothing firms of 13 brands. The results and suggestions are as follows :- 1. A manufacturing information is communicated through paper documents such as“Production Order”, sample and patterns. At present, a production order sheet is the most efficient communication media, which comprises most of the information being communicated. 2. A manufacturing information comprises control information on the product, design in-formation, pattern information, cutting information, material information, sewing information, production schedule information, quality control information, costing information and information about the subcontractors. 3. A manufacturing is not quite objective except pattern information and cutting information which is presented by CAD systems. The communication of design information and sewing information should be somehow more objective. 4. There is not much information from a subcontractor. Considering that a subcontractor is the other partener of the communication, more information from the subcontractor is required for both benefit. 5. A designer produce most of the manufacturing information, but the information is communicated through a production manager to the subcontractor. The difference between the information maker and information communicator can cause any miscommunication. In future automated manufacturing, it will be possible for the designer to communicate to the manufacturer directly from the early stage of designing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.