• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.908-922
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.390-408
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• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.43-49
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• 1999

This study conducted 4 different kinds of underwear materials, which were A (Cotton 100%), B (Wool 100%), C (Cotton/Wool, 50/50%) and D (Acrylic/Cotton, 50/50%) and were done in a climate chamber under cold ambient $10{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $40{\pm}5%RH$ by 6 male subjects who were in good health. Physiological parameters such as rectal and local skin temperature(forehead, forearm, hand, trunk, thigh, leg, foot, back and chest), heart rate, body weight loss, clothing microclimate, blood lactic acid concentration, and wearing sensation were measured. Started with a 15-min rest period, 15-min of exercise 1 (the condition of 4.5 mile/hr walking speed equivalent to with 8.5 Kcal energy consumption on the treadmill) period, 15-min rest period, exercise 2 (after 3minutes warming-up at 3.0. 3.7, 4.5. 5.2. 6.0, 6.7 mile/hr) until exhaustion period, and final 15-min of recovery period were performed. The results were as follows: The lowest mean skin temperature was acrylic/cotton in order of wool > cotton/wool > cotton > acrylic/cotton (F=13. 79. p<0.00l). Most of all skin temperature by parts of body had turned out in sequence of temperature wool > cotton/wool > acrylic/cotton > cotton. Fore arm part showed highest temperature about $32.43^{\circ}C$ on wool and had a tendency approximately $1.8^{\circ}C$ higher than cotton which had the lowest temperature, and had the biggest difference among garments in terms of skin temperature. The back temperature within clothing showed about $2^{\circ}C$ higher than the chest temperature within clothing. but the back humidity within clothing showed about 4~12% higher than the chest humidity within clothing. Body weight loss by each garment was this sequence; cotton > acrylic/cotton > wool > cotton/wool.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.275-285
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• 2006

With these excavated clothes discussed above, the clothing style before and after the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 can be summarized as follows. 1) Shroud was a clothes newly made for funeral or usually worn by the deceased. Shroud was mostly a unlined clothes whose adjustment was made in such way its left part was on top of its right one. Yeomeui, a clothes used to wrap up the body of the deceased or fill between the body and the coffin, was usually lined or quilted. Suryeeui was a suit sent by close relatives of the deceased or granted by the court. Mostly padded with cotton or quilted, suryeeui was used only for yeomeui. 2) The term of ching was used to count units of po and suits of trousers and jeogori during dressing the deceased for burial. If trousers and jeogori were not joined into a suit, they were not counted as ching. 3) Aekjueumpo, bangryeongsangeui, three-forked trousers and haengjeon for women were all clothes worn around the war. All these clothes were not worn after the war. 4) Several types of po which were discovered in Daejeon included danryeong, simeui, nansam, jikryeong, cheolik, aekjuempo, changeui and jungchimak for men and jangeui for women. Often, jikryeong, cheolrik, aekjueumpo and bangryeongsangeui were used before the war and changeui and jungchimak since then. 5) The git of jeogori had the style of mokpan git before the war, which was changed into that of dangko git through making the rectangular ege of mokpan git rounded in the 17th century. And jeogori became entirely small sized and the baerae line of sleeve became oblique. 6) In funeral rites of Daejon, simeui and nansam both of which were symbols of Confucian scholars, instead of official uniforms, were used as funeral garments. This suggests that funeral rites of Daejeon considerably reflected academic traditions of the Giho school meaning groups of scholars representing the region.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.612-625
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• 2010

People have more expectations for arts and design and accordingly, various artworks were combined with fashion to meet the consumer needs. As people live a decent life, the development of leisure activities and industry has a much effect on apparel. With this phenomenon, a free and active casual look is making progress centering around the practical apparel, pursuing diversified efficiency irrespective of a season and considering sensibility not formality. In this study, paintings of Henri Matisse were analyzed in every respect and were applied in apparel design with diverse color arrangement and a motif originating in the phenomenon of modern fashion design which leads to the integration of arts and design. Painting image and color of Henri Matisse were used. Sportive casual and cultural casual was used in design as well. Originality of its color in the paintings which were used an a motif is coming from Gauguin and Gogh. Henri had influenced to the next generation with pursuit of violent color. The following conclusions were drawn from this study. First, the color of Henri Matisse's paintings has a strong contrast effect. It combines notable violent color with a simple yet decorative motif. Therefore color from Matisse's paintings suit for apparel of marked individuality with its free color arrangement. Second, free and active image in Henri Matisse's paintings is easy to express efficiency and popularity. It accords with the feature of casual wear. Third, through adding a flowing curved line in Henri Matisse's paintings to materials and applying various colors putting into a curved line image to a rib section, a decorative effect which goes with the whole shape is obtained. This study presents possibility of emergence of unique design using free color arrangement and motif from the image of paintings and aims development of modern fashion design in accordance with modern fashion giving importance to the difference and sensibility by integration of modern garments and artworks.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.59-66
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern of elderly women aged over 60s by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new slacks pattern considered elderly women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows, front waist girth W/4+2+1.5, back waist girth W/4+1.5+0.5, front hip girth H/4+0.75, back hip girth H/4+1.5, front crotch extension H/16-0.5, back crotch extension H/8-1.3, front dart amount 2 and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new slacks pattern is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, new slacks pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.199-209
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• 2023

This study identified design elements of the functions required for children's ski pants. Data for this study were collected through questionnaire surveys conducted among children's ski instructors and children's sportswear developers. Five functionalities of children's skiwear were evaluated: mobility, stability, comfort, protection, and convenience. A total of 25 functional design elements related to the patterns, design details, and physical characteristics of fabrics for ski garments, were evaluated. The results of this study are as follows. First, children's sportswear developers evaluated that the pattern elements were important. Most of the pattern design elements highly related to mobility. Children's ski instructors' appraisal was that the height of the back waist was the important feature. Second, regarding the design details, children's ski instructors evaluated the size adjustment function and ventilation system as important elements. Many design detail elements were highly related in respect of stability, comfort, protection, and convenience. Third, the physical characteristics of fabric were strongly associated with mobility, comfort, and protection. As regards the physical characteristics of fabric, children's ski instructors valued anti-fouling highly, but children's sportswear developers attached more importance to the weight of the fabric. The results of this study will be useful in designing functional ski pants for children of elementary and intermediate ski levels. Since there may be limitations related to the ski level and age of children wearing ski pants, it is suggested that follow-up studies according to various groups of the ski pant wearers should be done.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.55-64
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• 2024

This study investigated the usage and product conditions of clothing companies and online dummy companies for the development of fitting dummy for South Korean women's wear in their 50s and 60s. These women-targeted apparel companies mainly used nude-sized torso type and torso crotch type made of FRP material. The frequency of use of the dummies was high, while the user satisfaction was moderate. Users expressed dissatisfaction with the inaccurate reflection of the body shape according to the KS sizing system and the measurements such as the front and back intercye, upper arms, abdomen, crotch, and waist back length. Upon survey, 73.7% of the respondents answered that development of the dummy and the appropriate age for it is 50 to 54, and they preferred the torso crotch form. In the production of online dummy companies, the torso crotch type and torso type were most widely produced, and polyurethane, FRP, and recycled paper materials were used. The size of dummy was expressed in numerical type, and 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 44, 55, 66, 77, 88 were being produced. Even models of the same size had significant deviation, especially in the waist circumference. Also, there was no dummy reflecting 25%~75% center interval to the KS garment sizing standards of women in their 50s and 60s. Therefore, it is desperately necessary to develop a fitting dummy for KS clothing sizing system that reflect their body sizes and shapes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.78-87
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• 2024

This study aimed to propose an innovative teaching pedagogy using a half-scale body form in apparel design education and evaluate its effectiveness in augmenting students' understanding of ergonomic patterns. Constructed in alignment with Phoenix's (2018) study, which used 3D body scanning and digital editing software, the half-scale body form was created through a five-step process, encompassing body measurement, 3D body modeling, fabrication of a physical half-scale body form, pattern making, and evaluation. Implemented in an undergraduate patternmaking course offered at a 4-year university in the metropolitan Seoul, this instructional approach's effectiveness was gauged through students' course projects and exit interviews. The results underscored the positive impact of the proposed teaching pedagogy on students' grasp of ergonomic pattern development, fostering a keen understanding of diverse body shapes and sizes and the relationship between the human body and garments. Furthermore, it played a role in cultivating positive body image and self-endorsement among students. The research contributes meaningfully by presenting a fresh perspective in apparel design education, seamlessly integrating advanced anthropometric and technological tools into a conventional patternmaking classroom. It offers a novel learning experience for students majoring in apparel, creating a fun and interactive teaching environment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.163-177
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• 2024

Korea has preserved a highly sophisticated silk fabric culture throughout its history. Among these fabrics, Ra (羅) was considered to be a premium gauze fabric that required advanced skill and dedication to utilize. Ra is a complex gauze fabric in which four warp threads are twisted together and intersect with the weft to form intricate holes. This unique structure gives Ra its distinctive transparency and elasticity among silk textiles. It was widely used for veils, garments, and various items from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. However, its complex weaving process limited production efficiency, leading to its decline. Today, Ra has become obsolete. This study focuses on the elastic characteristics of Ra, where intersecting warp threads create net-like structured holes. This stucturre was emulated by developing a silk knit using a Raschel knitting machine. The developed product consists of three types: one replicating the alternating complex structure present in the traditional patterns of Munra (紋羅), another reproducing the distinctive hexagonal holes of the 4-end complex gauze, and the last expressing the hexagonal holes with the weft passing through them. Inspired by Ra's traditional uses in clothing and everyday items, various products were designed and produced. These include a women's coat with Akjureum, a 17th-century Joseon-style women's Jeogori, a modern market-style Jeogori, and a envelope inspired by a Goryeo Dynasty pouch artifact. These items confirm the potential and applicability of the developed silk knit as a material for modern Hanbok products. This study underscores the significance of developing new textiles that incorporate traditional materials, highlighting how tradition can be preserved in diverse ways.