• Fashion, Industry and Education
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2017

The purposes of this study were to explore (1) how fit reviews differ among height groups and (2) how overall numerical ratings differ depending on height groups and ifferent types of fit reviews. Content analysis was used to analyze systematically sampled online consumer reviews (OCRs) of formalwear dresses rented online. In part 1, 201 OCRs were analyzed to develop the coding scheme, which included three aspects of fit (physical, aesthetic, and functional), valence (negative, neutral, positive), and overall numerical rating. In part 2, 600 OCRs were coded and statistically analyzed. Differences in frequency were not found among height groups for any types of mentions (negative, neutral, and positive) in terms of the three aspects of fit in the OCRs. Differences in overall mean ratings were not found among height groups. Interestingly, valence of each aspect of fit reviews affected mean numeric ratings. This study is new in examining relationships among textual information (i.e., fit reviews), numerical information (i.e., numerical rating), and reviewer's characteristic (i.e., height). The results of this study offered practical implications for etailers and marketers that they should pay attention to the three aspects of fit reviews and monitor garments with negative fit evaluations for lower ratings. They may attempt to increase ratings by providing customers recommendations to get a better fit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.744-751
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• 2018

This study aimed to provide the information on the thermal sensation and the amount of clothing worn of junior high school students in winter classroom the relation with their climate adaptability. Total usable questionnaires were obtained from 467 male and female students. The questionnaire included general characteristics, physical characteristics, self awareness of body shape, climate adaptability and subjective thermal sensation in winter classroom. The data were analyzed using SPSS Statistics 18.0 for frequency analysis, factor analysis, chi-square analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The results were as follows. The average body type based on BMI was normal($20.1kg/m^2$ ). Females perceived their body type as thinner than males. They wore more (8.67 garment items compared to 8.14 for males). Only about 25% of students voted the thermal sensation to neutral(47% cool~very cold, 28% warm~very hot). Females were more sensitive to the cold, perceived less healthy, and wore more garments in the cold. Students felt colder in winter classroom when their cold adaptability was lower and they actively adjusted thermal insulation against the cold. It is recommended to suggest the guidelines for the proper indoor temperature and for the wear behavior in classroom in the perspectives of increasing the learning efficiency and improving the students' climate adaptability.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.315-324
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• 2022

This study aims to verify the sewing technology and the expression of the virtual garment program by comparing the appearance similarity between the real and the virtual power shoulder jacket. To this end, the H and the X silhouettes of the power shoulder jacket were selected as the reference designs. After making the reference designs into real jackets by applying the human body dimensions of women in their twenties, virtual avatars and jackets were produced using CLO 3D programs. The results showed that the H-type with only expanded shoulders and less design variation had a high similarity between the reference photo and real garment, the real and virtual garment, and the reference photo and virtual garment. The power shoulder jacket of the reference picture was well reproduced in the real and virtual garments. Conversely, the X-type jacket, which is a tight fit and has many design variations, showed somewhat low similarity in the circumference items and the basic construction line. Especially in tight-fitted power shoulder jackets, the fact that shoulder angles and the essential items for pattern making cannot be reflected in reproducing virtual models was found to be a limitation in increasing the similarity of virtual clothing. Furthermore, the sewing system gap between the real and the virtual clothing exposed a difference in the appearance of virtual clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2023

Korea's original traditional costume designs have a great potential to be re-imagined from a global perspective and developed into high-value-added fashion culture products that can enter the international market. This study applied the structural features of traditional clothing to the design of fashion cultural products. This study developed designs using Beja, Sagyusam, Aekjuem-po, Danlyeong, Cheolrik, Jang-jegori of Korea. To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first to conduct a literature survey of traditional Korean clothing. We designed shirts using Adobe Illustrator and created a pattern with the Yuka program. This design was applied to a three dimensional virtual dressing system called CLO. A survey of individual interest in developed fashion cultural products was also conducted. The shirt designs were obtained by applying the details and structural characteristics of traditional Korean clothing. Among the six shirt designs, when asked which design would be suitable for wearing, gifting, or uniform, the shirts with the design of Danlyeong, Beja, and Sagyusam were generally highly preferred. This study can be used as basic data for the global market for fashion cultural products, and can contribute to the inheritance and development of culture and tradition by maintaining Korea's uniqueness in the modern global era and increasing tourism revenue.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.615-625
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• 2023

This study aimed to analyze the characteristics of the lower-body shape of middle-aged males with abdominal obesity by type and consider dimensional distribution to present a suit-pants size. The criteria were having a waist circumference greater than 90 cm and a waist-to-hip ratio(WHR) greater than 0.90; a total of 566 middle-aged males were surveyed. The findings revealed that, first, compared to standard lower-body types, the average body size of abdomenobese middle-aged males was significantly larger, especially in the horizontal area than in the vertical ares. Second, through a cluster analysis, a total of three categories of abdominal obesity were defined: small oval, large cylinder, and trapezoid type. The coverage rates of each type were 93.8%, 75.9%, and 93.0%, respectively. Finally, the suit-pants size system established according to lower-body types indicated the basic body size and reference body size were different for each type and also for the KS K 0050 male adult's garments size system. According to the definition of abdominal obesity, the types of abdominal obesity and the dimensions of each area are different, even if they belong to the same obesity group, suggesting that it is necessary to develop a pattern based on the analysis of obesity types.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.34-47
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• 2024

This study aimed to enhance public awareness of the growing issue of automobile waste and promote environmental protection by developing visually appealing and innovative clothing designs. By leveraging successful examples of upcycled fashion design and products that could recycle automobile waste, this study proposed four garment designs utilizing various materials such as seat belts, leather seat fabrics, and airbags from automobile waste. Ultimately, two of these garments were produced as physical prototypes. Findings of this study are summarized as follows. First, the development of upcycled fashion products utilizing automotive waste opened new possibilities for sustainable fashion design. This approach demonstrates potential to meet demands of modem consumers who prioritize environmental values and social responsibility. Second, the study established an important foundation for understanding market acceptance and consumer perception of upcycled fashion products using automotive waste. As consumer awareness of environmental protection grows and demand for sustainable products increases, these upcycled products are likely to gain significant traction in the fashion industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.86-93
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of Middle-aged obese women by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; 1. By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new torso pattern considered obese women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+5, armhole depth B/6+5, front waist girth W/4+2+0.5, back waist girth W/4+1-0.5, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+2-0.5, chest width B/6+2.5, back width B/6+2.5 and back neck width B/20+2.5. 2. According to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern is appropriate for the obese women. Also, new torso pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of bust, waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D Pattern Production Program development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.31-37
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the causes of clothes phenomenon of the ruling class women on the Heian period of Japan in the aspects of politics, economics, society, culture, and religion. The findings of the study are as follows. The main characteristics of the Heian period of Japan may include a rare sense of internationalism, low sense of nationalism, and frequent cases of political intrigue. However, noble culture, centered on royal court, was flourished and it enabled to develop sophisticated and graceful culture. During the Nara period and the Heian period (from $8^{th}$ to $12^{th}$ century), there were enormous changes in the clothes, starting from the mid $10^{th}$ century. The clothes of the ruling class in the Heian period underwent changes from the imitative clothes-imitating the clothes of the Tang age of China- to Japanesque clothes-adding the aesthetic consciousness of Japanese ruling class people. Particularly, the clothes of the ruling class women became massive, majestic, and decorative. The changed clothes had also features such as layered look, utilizing underwear as outer garments, using a wide variety of colors, and using hard and solid materials to make clothes. It can be concluded that the clothes of the ruling class people in the Heian period were affected by plural factors such as national and international political situation, economics, society, culture, and religion. The clothes were used by ruling class people as means of expressing their noble and sophisticated beauty, which led to produce humanistic beauty. The Heian period can be described as an era of the highest reach of humanity.