• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.134-152
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• 2008

Functional, aesthetic and symbolic working uniforms in the industrial complex are demanded by employees and employers. The purpose of this research was to find out the actual wearing condition and preference of the working uniform design in the industrial complex. The research selected 7 enterprise subjects located in the Changwon National Industrial Complex and adopted a questionnaire method. 912 workers categorized into 4 work groups according to their work posts replied in total. The data and the degrees of satisfaction/preference of the working uniforms were analysed into descriptive statistics and F-tests by using the SPSS S/W package. The results were as follows: First, the style of the working uniform was the standard two-piece style. Second, the degree of the satisfaction with the entrepreneurial image implied to the working uniform was 2.83 throughout the 5-scale evaluation. In addition, the degree of the satisfaction with the working uniform colors was in between 2.94 and 2.96. Third, unsatisfied parts of the upper and lower uniform garments were: sleeve > pocket > collar; and waist belt loop > hip pocket > hem line respectively. Fourth, beige was the most preferred color for the working uniform top and bottom both. The most preferred color images were the calm and safety and the bright and light in order. Especially, the demand on the safety factors and soil proof colors of the outside field workers was much higher than the clerical workers. Fifth, the blouson type jacket with shirts collar or soutien roll collar was more preferred to than the casual style; and the straight formal pants were more preferred to than the casual/sweat sports pants styles. Sixth, inner pockets to keep the mobile phone and pens were required for upper garment details specially by manufacture workers. Increase of the waist belt loop numbers was required by all work groups.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.613-617
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• 2004

The intent of this study was to determine whether different light exposure could modify the clothing behavior in the evening cold environment or not. Nine female subjects volunteered to this study. In a bright light or a dim light condition, light intensity was controlled 3000 lx or 10 lx respectively. Subjects were introduced to wear various kinds of garments whenever they need to feel comfortable as the room temperature began to decrease. The room temperature was lowered from $30^{\circ}C$ to $15^{\circ}C$ for one hour (21:00 h~22:00 h) and maintained at $15^{\circ}C$ for additional one hour (22:00 h~23:00 h). Subjects stayed in chamber from 08:00 to the next day 07:00. Clothing behavior, core temperature, subjective temperature sensation and melatonin secretion were measured. Most subjects put on the clothing more quickly and more thickerly in the bright light rather than in the dim light condition. The fall of core temperature during night was significantly less under the bright light in the late afternoon, suggesting that the set-point of core temperature has been set at a higher level during the evening and the night, being supported by the less amount of melatonin secretion. Thus, it is concluded that the quicker dressing behavior with thicker clothing in the "Bright" condition is advantageous in evening cold exposure, since it enables the core temperature to reach its set-point value more easily.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.207-215
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• 2016

This research was designed to analyze the relationship among depression level, body cathexis, and clothing behavioral attributes of middle-aged women. Respondents for questionnaire were middle-aged women aged from 40 to 59. A total of 197 responses were analyzed by SPSS 21.0 through t-test, and factor analysis with Varimax rotation. The results were as following. As older, the portion of depressed group increased. Higher in depression level, her body cathexis decreased, meaning those two valuables have negative relationship. Six clothing behavioral factors were extruded: style pursuit, body shaping, showing-off, comfort pursuit, recreativeness, and consciousness of others factor, which covers both physical and psychological aspects of middle-aged women. The difference between 40's and 50's was significant in depression level, however, not significant in body cathexis and clothing behavioral attributes. Except for weight, body cathexis satisfaction level of 'depressed group' were significantly lower than 'not-depressed group', meaning that psychological factor give a significant effect on body cathexis. 'Not-depressed group' tend to choose her own style and 'depressed group' more likely to be conscious of others and conform to the affiliation group. This finding implies that design and coordination of garments for middle-aged women could be recommended according to the depression level to improve the quality of life.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.136-143
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of physical functions of elderly people on their clothing behavior and to provide basic information about manufacturing comfortable apparels for the elderly. A total of 219 people, with ages between 60s and 70s, participated in the survey and in the experiment to correlate their tendency of wearing clothes with the state of their physical functions. About 78.5% of the elderly showed eyesight deterioration in the subjective evaluation. Elders in their 60s raised their arms higher up in overhead reach, and showed shorter distance between middle fingertips in behind back stretch and in back scratch than elders in their 70s. Also, the former stretched farther to the floor in standing trunk flexion, and maintained more steady in one leg stand and in tandem stance than the latter. The narrower the movement range of the upper limb joints was, the more the elderly preferred upper garments with full front opening to those with half or no opening. The more inflexible the upper limbs and waist and the more unbalanced the body was, the more likely the elderly put on pants while sitting on the floor. The time taken to button up the shirt and to put on and take off pants showed a positive correlation with the overhead reach, the behind back stretch, the back scratch and the standing trunk flexion, whereas the former showed a negative correlation with the one leg stand and the tandem stance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.86-93
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of Middle-aged obese women by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; 1. By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new torso pattern considered obese women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+5, armhole depth B/6+5, front waist girth W/4+2+0.5, back waist girth W/4+1-0.5, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+2-0.5, chest width B/6+2.5, back width B/6+2.5 and back neck width B/20+2.5. 2. According to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern is appropriate for the obese women. Also, new torso pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of bust, waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D Pattern Production Program development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.31-37
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the causes of clothes phenomenon of the ruling class women on the Heian period of Japan in the aspects of politics, economics, society, culture, and religion. The findings of the study are as follows. The main characteristics of the Heian period of Japan may include a rare sense of internationalism, low sense of nationalism, and frequent cases of political intrigue. However, noble culture, centered on royal court, was flourished and it enabled to develop sophisticated and graceful culture. During the Nara period and the Heian period (from $8^{th}$ to $12^{th}$ century), there were enormous changes in the clothes, starting from the mid $10^{th}$ century. The clothes of the ruling class in the Heian period underwent changes from the imitative clothes-imitating the clothes of the Tang age of China- to Japanesque clothes-adding the aesthetic consciousness of Japanese ruling class people. Particularly, the clothes of the ruling class women became massive, majestic, and decorative. The changed clothes had also features such as layered look, utilizing underwear as outer garments, using a wide variety of colors, and using hard and solid materials to make clothes. It can be concluded that the clothes of the ruling class people in the Heian period were affected by plural factors such as national and international political situation, economics, society, culture, and religion. The clothes were used by ruling class people as means of expressing their noble and sophisticated beauty, which led to produce humanistic beauty. The Heian period can be described as an era of the highest reach of humanity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.11-24
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• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.77-88
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• 1993

The changes in body temperatures of students in physical trained and untrained colleges have been studied as a funtion of garment styles under three different environmental conditions ($13{\pm}1$, $21{\pm}1$, $31{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $60{\pm}5%$ RH, 0.25m/sec). Since exposures of the extremities of body affect the regulation of body temperature, two types of garments, i.e., the skirt and the slacks, were used in order to observe the effects of the garment styles on the regulation of body temperatures. The skirt exposed the calf of the leg, while the slacks did not. Because the body temperature is regulated better for healtier people, the subjects were divided into two groups. one group was consisted of 2 untrained female students, and the other of 2 healthier female physical college students. 1. The rectal temperatures for those in skirt were $0.3^{\circ}C$ higher than for the ones in slacks at $13^{\circ}C$ regardless of the groups. The untrained group showed $0.3^{\circ}C$ higher rectal temperatures in skirt and $0.2^{\circ}C$ higher in slacks compared to the physical trained group. 2. The skin temperatures rose with the environmental temperatures, and the skirt gave larger mean skin temperature by $0.5^{\circ}C$ at $21^{\circ}C$. 3. At $13^{\circ}C$, the untrained group felt colder, more wet, and slightly more uncomfortable for both skirt and slacks. It is concluded that the skirt is more effective in physiological defense against cold stimuli than the slacks at $13^{\circ}C$, and that the regulation of body temperature takes place more efficiently to the physical trained students.

• Molecular & Cellular Toxicology
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.230-236
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• 2005

Formaldehyde is a common environmental contaminant found in tobacco smoke, paint, garments, diesel and exhaust, and medical and industrial products. Formaldehyde has been considered to be potentially carcinogenic, making it a subject of major environmental concern. However, only a little information on the mechanism of immunological sensitization and asthma by this compound has been known. So, we performed with Jurkat cell line, a human T lymphocyte, to assess the induction of DNA damage and to identify the DEGs related to immune response or toxicity by formaldehyde. In this study, we investigated the induction of DNA single strand breaks by formaldehyde using single cell gel electrophoresis assay (comet assay). And we compared gene expression between control and formaldehyde treatment to identify genes that are specifically or predominantly expressed by employing annealing control primer (ACP)-based $GeneFishing^{TM}$ method. The cytotoxicity ($IC_{30}$) of formaldehyde was determined above the 0.65 mM in Jurkat cell in 48 h treatment. Based on the $IC_{30}$ value from cytotoxicity test, we performed the comet assay in this concentration. From these results, 0.65 mM of formaldehyde was not revealed significant DNA damages in the absence of S-9 metabolic activation system. And the one differentially expressed gene (DEG) of formaldehyde was identified to zinc finger protein 292 using $GeneFishing^{TM}$ method. Through further investigation, we will identify more meaningful and useful DEGs on formaldehyde, and then can get the information on the associated mechanism and pathway with immune response or other toxicity by formaldehyde exposure.