• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.702-712
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to develop Casual Hanbok design made of Hanji yarn textiles for New Silver generation women. The New silver generation is a coined word which has meaning of a newly silver generation and it is distinguished from pre-silver generation. New silver generation is a generation that is independent and given active role by their age groups and generational characteristic. The concept of silver generation was introduced from maturity market in Japan. This study was based on analysis about their preference of forms, colors, and materials of Casual Hanbok. The survey target were 270 female over age 50 living in Daejeon City. The analysis methods used frequency and percentage. The results were summarized as following. Although almost of them haven't worn Casual Hanbok, they had the positive recognition on wearing one. They preferred longer length jacket to traditional Korean style, shorter length of skirt. They also preferred the traditional sleeve shape and knotted buttons. On the foundation of this fact, 2 styles consist of 5 Casual Hanbok design items made of functional material - Hanji yarn textiles that have antimicrobial, deodorant, quick drying, far infrared radiation which are not harmful to health - for New silver women were suggested. One style was 3 items - blouse, vest, skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with activity by patch. The other was 2 items - jacket and skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with modern way by quilting. Lastly, these garments were evaluated by 13 experts, they were satisfied with 2 styles and all items. As this study were based on the Elderly women living in Daejeon city, it had the limitation on applying of preference styles to all the New silver generation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1127-1137
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• 2010

As directly imported apparel brands are actively entering the domestic market, studies of the marketing aspects of these imported apparel products and their overall consumption trend have been done. However, studies of whether are not the directly imported apparel products provide Korean consumers with an appropriate fit are not as common. Therefore, this study investigates the satisfaction with and problems associated with the fit along with the recognition of and preference for directly imported US apparel brands. 100 female college students who purchased directly imported US apparel brands participated in a survey. The results of this survey showed that their recognition of, preference for, possession rate of and satisfaction with the directly imported US apparel brands tend to be high. The major purchasing motivations were the excellent 'design' and 'color' of the products. The subjects reported that they were satisfied with the quality of 'materials' and 'sewing condition'. However, they were not satisfied with the 'comfort' or the 'size'. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of these products differed depending on the specific item. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of T-shirts and knits was high, whereas the level for pants was relatively low. They complained mostly about the sleeve length and garment length of upper-body garments and coats. They were not satisfied with how the pants fit. The areas of dissatisfaction regarding the pants were the waist girth, the crotch length and the pants length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.764-776
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.9 no.4 s.32
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• pp.109-116
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• 2004

This paper describes a cloth simulation system for dressing 3D virtual human model with different pieces of clothing. The garments are constructed of cutting patterns seamed together. The system reads a body file and a cutting pattern file and produces a new model dressed with the specified garment by using a physical simulation based on a mass-spring model. For the realistic cloth simulation, it performs collision detection and response between triangles of the 3D human model and the garment. Because the number of triangles of a human model is very large. the collision detection and response requires a lot of time. To overcome this problem, we propose a pruning method which decreases the number of collision detection and response by a space-subdivision method. Experimental results show that the system produces realistic images and makes it possible to sew a garment around a virtual human body in several seconds.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.11
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• pp.1794-1805
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• 2009

This study investigates the influence of slit positions on the microclimate temperature/humidity of garments. To design the slits, a market survey was performed to indicate the method to apply the slits, in addition to a literature survey about muscles and body surface variation through body movements. Based on the survey, three positions of slits were selected, shoulder slit, lowback slit, and midback slit, a slit width of 1cm and length to 30cm was used. The results showed that microclimate temperatures/humidity on the back according to the slit positions were in the order of, lowback, midback, and the shoulder. The lowback slit showed the highest effect on the temperature/humidity of a front trunk. Lowback slits affected on localized areas of the glutaeus maximus, erector spinae, and latissimus dorsi. Midback slits affected the back muscle and deltoid. Shoulder slits showed a more significant effect on the localized area of the deltoid versus other localized areas. In the subjective sensations, the lowback slit was cooler, dryer, and more comfortable than the other slits. For the subjective sensations by fabric characteristics, the slit positions correlated at |r|${\geq}.8$ and were significant at p<.001 The results show that the lowback slit has a superior air exchange effect and thermoregulation qualities.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.8 s.210
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• pp.69-81
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to design high school boy's uniforms, which fit well and express the traditional aesthetics of Korean clothing. Korean traditional clothing is getting ground for the use as active wear as well as formal wear such as wedding or special holiday clothing. This is partly due to the introduction of western clothing in Korea because of the practical nature of this type of clothing. This study was carried out as follows: 1. First, 197 high school boys from 5 different high schools were surveyed. All of these schools use Korean style school uniforms. The survey asked the students about their satisfaction with the current designs, problems and design preferences for Korean style high school uniforms. In general, the boys are not satisfied with the aesthetic and fashionable aspects of their uniforms. 2. The second survey dealt with design preferences from a variety of design options of Korean-style school uniforms. The design options were presented to the students as in the form of 10 different types jackets and 6 different types of pants. Using the results of the second survey as a guideline, the designs of Korean style school uniforms were developed. 3. In order to make the test garments, a block bodice pattern for the Korean style school uniforms was developed. Using the developed bodice block pattern, 6 designs were made of wool. The 6 test designs consisted of 3 different types of jackets and 3 different types of pants. 4. Incorporating the most preferred design features, school boy Korean style school uniform designs were developed. The characteristics of the design include neck line opening and its finishing, AH and sleeve shape, embroidered traditional patterns and fastenings. In this study we were able to develop comfortable clothing, which expressed the traditional aesthetics of Korean clothing.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.343-347
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the appropriate amounts of phase change materials to give objective and subjective wear sensations. Vapor-permeable water-repellent fabrics with (WR-PCM) and without (WR) octadecane containing microcapsules were obtained by wet-porous coating process. Then, calculating the area of the WR-PCM treated clothes, we estimated the total calories of the clothing by multiplying the heat of fusion and heat of crystallization of PCM to the calculated area. Wear tests were conducted in both warm environment $(30^{\circ}C,\;65\%\;RH)$ and cold environment $(5^{\circ}C,\;65\%\;RH)$ with sports warm up style experimental garments made with WR and WR-PCM fabrics. Rectal, skin, and clothing microclimate temperatures, saliva and subjective evaluation measurements were done during the wear test. There was no difference of rectal and mean skin temperatures between WR and WR-PCM, but the clothing microclimate temperature of WR-PCM under warm environment was slightly lower than that of WR. In cold environment, WR-PCM showed much higher temperature than in WR. Saliva change did not appear between clothes, but did between two environments. Although subjective sensation between WR and WR-PCM was not significantly different, WR-PCM was rated as cooler than WR in warm environment and as warmer than WR in cold environment. The results of this study indicated that octadecane containing microcapsules in water-repellent fabric provide cooling effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.121-135
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, usage, value, length and width of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) recorded on documents made at the end period of Joseon. The features of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the end of the Joseon Period are as follows. 1. The kinds of Sa(紗) are about 80, those of Ra(羅) are about 12, and those of Sa(紗) are significantly more than those of Ra(羅). In regard to the aspect of patterns, there were about 20 types of patterns in the case of Sa(紗), but no specific pattern for Ra(羅). 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Sa (紗) are as follows. Baek -bok-mun(백복문) was a pattern full of ‘bats(박쥐[복])’, and Baek-jeop-mun(백접문) was a pattern full of ‘butterflies(나비[蝶])’ Jeop-mun(접문) was classified into ‘butterfly patterns(나비문[접문])’ and ‘traditional window flame patterns(창살문[접문])‘. 3. When considering the usages of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), Sa(紗) was used for various detailed purposes according to their kinds and patterns, but Ra(羅) was mostly used for underwear. The most commonly used Sa(紗) was the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). On the contrary, the Go-sa type(庫紗類) was significantly less used than the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). However, it must have been of relatively high quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for outer garments. In addition, the Gung-sa type(宮紗類) was the best quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for court dress and official uniforms in the royal court. 4. Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) whose features have been examined we Gapsa(甲紗), Sun-in (純仁), Gosa(庫紗), Gwansa(官紗), Jusa(走紗), Eunjosa(은조사), Gwangsa(廣紗), Waesa(倭紗), Dorisa(도리사), Gong-yangsa(공양사), Rasa(羅紗), Danghangra(唐亢羅), Yanghangra(洋亢羅), Yunjura(윤주라), Eunra(銀羅), Jeohangra(저항라), Chura(秋羅). 5. Regarding the values of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), they were high quality textures and its length and width of 1 Pil(疋), a roll of cloth, were not subdivided in detail such as in the case of plain weaved silks(平絹).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.679-686
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to look into the formative characteristics of the bolero and to evaluate the visual effects and images according to changes in the line and length of the connecting lines of the neck, center front, and hem lines from analyzing the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion. Theoretical examination of the bolero was made philologically with reference books, theses and some articles. And the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion was analyzed with pictures from a fashion magazine "Ceci" and a fashion website 'Interfashion Planning" from Feb. to Aug. of 2005. As a result, the basic lines of the bolero are classified into three different categories according to the connecting lines of the neck, center front line, and hem line. We altered the length of the bolero in three categories with the changes in the waistline-5 cm, 8 cm, and 11 cm. For the visual evaluation, 9 stimuli were placed in mannequins, and were estimated by the experts in the fashion design. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the line and length of the bolero, we used 12 pairs of items to find the visual effects, and 13 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. The stimuli and adjectives were randomly given to the evaluators and were evaluated by the 7-Point Likert Type Scale. Data we got from this experiment was analyzed statistically by using the SPSS 12.0 and practiced the Factor Analysis and Correlation Analysis. In the current women's garments, the bolero is a new fashion item which combines with jackets or cardigans. Usually the bolero jacket is made out of a cotton, denim, leather or fur, and the bolero cardigan usually used knitted materials. The design could be very varied depending on the roundness of the center front line, and hem line. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual effects of the Bolero, four factors were identified the whole silhouette, neck line, breasts and shoulders. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual image of the Bolero, three factors were identified maturity, tenderness, neatness.