• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.890-911
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• 2020

This study proposed a base framework for creating sustainable designs with textile production waste and unused neckties with the "design thinking" approach, which is an iterative process. It aimed to set an example of how fashion designers can plan and manage their clothing design processes in a more sustainable way by recycling textile production scraps and unused neckties into unique clothing pieces with the upcycling method. Unused neckties and upholstery scraps were turned into skirts, blouses, and dresses by using creative techniques in line with current fashion trends. In addition, the five-stage iterative design process followed was explained, and the way in which the waste textile materials gained value by being converted into unique garments was discussed in terms of the user and the designer. Through the study, it was observed that the smallest amount of textile waste can be transformed into upcycled clothing via the iterative process, and original, value-added products enjoyed by consumers can be created. In addition, it was observed that the design thinking approach improves the understanding of the context of the problem, creativity in the generation of insights and solutions, skills to materialize those solutions through iterative prototyping, and the ability to combine these factors. Promising ideas to help designers develop recycling strategies were also provided.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.366-380
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• 2022

This study aims to develop the designs and patterns of yoga tops that are better adjusted to suit females in their 30s and 40s. After conducting a comparative analysis of three different popular yoga garments, one yoga top currently on the market was selected. Subsequently, a fit evaluation was conducted on Trail 1-garment α, which was developed body analysis performed based on selected yoga top C, followed by the production of the Trial 2 garment after making adjustments according to the comparative observation results. Based on these results, garment C with the longest top length was evaluated as the best. The results of the evaluation of appearance and fit conducted of Trial 1-garment α compared to those of C showed that Trial 1-garment α was superior in both evaluations. Trial 2-garment β was produced after making improvements on Trial 1-garment α and then placed under identical comparative evaluation condition as Trial 1-garment α. Results showed a significant improvement compared to Trial 1-garment α, and the Trial 2 garment with an additional arm pattern was shown to be superior in shoulder strap width stability, shoulder strap pressure, chest stability, degree of waist pressure, waist comfort, general fitting, and supportiveness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.315-324
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• 2022

This study aims to verify the sewing technology and the expression of the virtual garment program by comparing the appearance similarity between the real and the virtual power shoulder jacket. To this end, the H and the X silhouettes of the power shoulder jacket were selected as the reference designs. After making the reference designs into real jackets by applying the human body dimensions of women in their twenties, virtual avatars and jackets were produced using CLO 3D programs. The results showed that the H-type with only expanded shoulders and less design variation had a high similarity between the reference photo and real garment, the real and virtual garment, and the reference photo and virtual garment. The power shoulder jacket of the reference picture was well reproduced in the real and virtual garments. Conversely, the X-type jacket, which is a tight fit and has many design variations, showed somewhat low similarity in the circumference items and the basic construction line. Especially in tight-fitted power shoulder jackets, the fact that shoulder angles and the essential items for pattern making cannot be reflected in reproducing virtual models was found to be a limitation in increasing the similarity of virtual clothing. Furthermore, the sewing system gap between the real and the virtual clothing exposed a difference in the appearance of virtual clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.237-246
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze short sleeve cycling tops from three brands for a change in garment fit and pressure depending on the static and cycling postures. To this end, it used a 3D virtual garment system to virtualize the garments. Further, a cross-section of the 3D virtual garment data was obtained, and the space length was measured in the design-X program to prove the objectivity of the 3D virtual garment. The results indicated that three brands had a large space length at the front than the back because of the bent posture in cycling. Therefore, appropriate ease was required for the waist and abdomen. Although there were various cutting lines of the bodice panel by brand, the design of the cutting lines should consider the changes in the surface to reflect the bent posture in cycling. The results of this experiment confirmed that the wrinkles present in the 3D virtual garment were reflected in the cross-section and that the space length was small in the high-stress area, as shown in red. Therefore, it was proven the stress of the 3D virtual garment could be used for 3D virtual garment evaluation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2023

Korea's original traditional costume designs have a great potential to be re-imagined from a global perspective and developed into high-value-added fashion culture products that can enter the international market. This study applied the structural features of traditional clothing to the design of fashion cultural products. This study developed designs using Beja, Sagyusam, Aekjuem-po, Danlyeong, Cheolrik, Jang-jegori of Korea. To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first to conduct a literature survey of traditional Korean clothing. We designed shirts using Adobe Illustrator and created a pattern with the Yuka program. This design was applied to a three dimensional virtual dressing system called CLO. A survey of individual interest in developed fashion cultural products was also conducted. The shirt designs were obtained by applying the details and structural characteristics of traditional Korean clothing. Among the six shirt designs, when asked which design would be suitable for wearing, gifting, or uniform, the shirts with the design of Danlyeong, Beja, and Sagyusam were generally highly preferred. This study can be used as basic data for the global market for fashion cultural products, and can contribute to the inheritance and development of culture and tradition by maintaining Korea's uniqueness in the modern global era and increasing tourism revenue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.4
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• pp.624-637
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop a compression inner layer (CIL) that can be attached to dress shirts for men who have gynecomastia (male breast enlargement). For this, we developed shirts with CIL prototypes based on the functional, expressive, and aesthetic (FEA) consumer needs model. The user-centered design principle guided the design process. Based on size measurements, in-depth interviews, and an online survey, the design requirements for dress shirts with a CIL were determined, and the prototype was developed. The dress shirts were constructed of polyester and spandex mixed materials, while the CIL was made of thin mesh fabric knitted from 80% polyester and 20% spandex. A CIL prototype was developed with a front zipper fastening to hold the upper body tight and compress the breast area. The CIL was attached by connecting a strap with snap buttons to loops sewn into the shoulder line of the dress shirt. In the trial and sensory test, the prototype helped breast size decrease while meeting target consumer needs. The outcomes of this study provide necessary insights to develop garments for gynecomastia patients.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.96-114
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• 2023

In modern society, there is a tendency to prioritize both fashion and comfort, with a preference for loose-fit clothing that enhances mobility. While darts may not be visibly present on the garment's exterior, their effects should be dispersed and incorporated into the design. However, there is a significant lack of systematic research on dartless patterns in the current state. Therefore, this study focuses on investigating dartless patterns used in loose-fit clothing tailored to the body measurements of women in their 20s. The objective of this research is to develop foundational dartless patterns that serve as a basis for diverse design possibilities in loose-fit clothing. To achieve this purpose, seven dartless patterns introduced in clothing construction references were selected for the production of experimental prototypes, which were then subjected to visual evaluations by a panel of experts. Based on the evaluation results, superior patterns were selected and they underwent modification and improvement to develop the research patterns. The developed research patterns were derived through the formulation of calculation formulas, and based on these formulas, garments were produced. Subsequently, a second round of visual evaluations was conducted by a panel of experts, and notable improvements were observed in most of the aspects assessed. However, it should be noted that this study was limited to women in their 20s it did not explore a wide range of fabrics. Therefore, further research is needed in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.615-625
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• 2023

This study aimed to analyze the characteristics of the lower-body shape of middle-aged males with abdominal obesity by type and consider dimensional distribution to present a suit-pants size. The criteria were having a waist circumference greater than 90 cm and a waist-to-hip ratio(WHR) greater than 0.90; a total of 566 middle-aged males were surveyed. The findings revealed that, first, compared to standard lower-body types, the average body size of abdomenobese middle-aged males was significantly larger, especially in the horizontal area than in the vertical ares. Second, through a cluster analysis, a total of three categories of abdominal obesity were defined: small oval, large cylinder, and trapezoid type. The coverage rates of each type were 93.8%, 75.9%, and 93.0%, respectively. Finally, the suit-pants size system established according to lower-body types indicated the basic body size and reference body size were different for each type and also for the KS K 0050 male adult's garments size system. According to the definition of abdominal obesity, the types of abdominal obesity and the dimensions of each area are different, even if they belong to the same obesity group, suggesting that it is necessary to develop a pattern based on the analysis of obesity types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.77-98
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• 2024

The mourning attire worn by the Sangju (Chief Mourner) during Confucian funeral rituals is known as Gulgeonjebok. It is comprised of Gulgeon, Sujil, and Hyogeon on the head, and Jungui underneath. On top of the Jungui, the ceremonial garments called Choeui are worn, along with Choesang. Yojil and Gyodae are then tied around the waist. Mahye and Hangieon are worn on the feet, and a walking stick made of bamboo, paulownia, or willow is carried. A needlework master, Choe Onsun, who was designated as a Holder of Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollabuk-do on November 27, 1998, is recognized for her efforts in restoring and recreating the forgotten Gulgeonjebok. Thanks to her endeavors, the period, regional, and cultural characteristics of Gulgeonjebok in the Jeolla Province have been preserved. This study aims to examine and reproduce characteristic items of Gulgeonjeboks handed down by a needlework master, Choe, by conducting an empirical study on the dimensions and schematization of the Gulgeon, the method of cutting, and the sewing process. The empirical research on Gulgeojebok is expected to further enhance traditional sewing skills. It will also serve as a foundation for deepening the level of research on traditional dress and sharing traditional cultural heritage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.94-107
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• 2024

This study developed compression pants with excellent wearability and signal quality by approaching the design of wireless sEMG monitoring pants from the perspective of technical design, including the evaluation of wearability and the stable wireless transmission of signals through electrode and circuit design, and using e-textiles. An electrode, sewn with silver thread and a circuit stitched in a zigzag pattern using stainless steel wire, were applied. Additionally, polyurethane sealing tape was used to enhance adherence to the skin and reduce electrical resistance. Conductive snaps completed the design, allowing attachment and detachment to the bio-signal acquisition mainboard. Through the subjects' evaluation, it was determined that the final pants were applied with a pattern reduction rate of 25% to provide superior comfort according to different body parts while also minimizing skin irritation around the thigh circuit. The final pants for wireless sEMG monitoring, which demonstrated stable transmission of wireless measurements, was positively evaluated in terms of cognitive acceptability. This study is significant in that it achieved an optimal design by considering both technical aspects and the electrical characteristics of bio-signal monitoring garments, as well as the wearer's perception when designing smart wear.