• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.19-33
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• 1997

This study will analyze Karl Largerfeld's design of Chanel to suggest the designer's strategy succeeding haute couture. His significant stylistic interests include the revealed structure of the garment, the modifications between fine art and fashion, the combination of the traditional restraint of the couture with the flourishes of the wildest street fashions and effects that turn garments upsides down or insides out. The House of Chanel today recognizes that commercial success ultimately lies in re-working Chanel's signature designs in a modern idiom. That the essence of theses designs remains so desirable is due to Karl Lagerfeld's successful interpretation and is ultimately an accolade to the founder-Gabrielle Chanel. During the reign of Coco it would have been difficult for any woman who wanted to look young and modern to go wrong with her fashions. The same can be said of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel today. Clothes with the Chanel imprimatur no doubt will remain just as fashionable into the twenty-first century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.84-98
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• 1997

This study is to develop a fashion drawing education program which is based on the theory of 'Split-brain' by Roger W. Sperry and 'Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain' by Betty Edwards. Students in Fashion Design start their training by developing a foundation in drawing and studing the tools, materials and methods of the Industry. Ideas are then developed on paper, later translated into three-dimensional shapes and finally into finished garments. Fashion drawing and design techniques train the hand and eye to all the nuances of fashion design and illustration. Fashion drawing course deals with the sketching of fashion models for the purpose of understanding the model figure, basic anatomy, movement and figure attitudes. Having mastered the basic skills, students take advanced drawing course which is developing awareness of design, needs, of fashion market' using various media for the purpose of developing a designer's sketch, with emphasis on the drawing and designs. Featured aspects of this study include the following; 1. Drawing the negative space; basic visual concepts 2. Contour drawing; constructs, visual measurement, movement 3. Model drawing; the classical method, proportion, symmetry. The primary aim of this study is to develop a sensitive, animated line based on observed form. It is important to let the students Imagine that they are actually touching the model, for in this way they can benefit from simulating the child's learning process. Instead of actually touching the model they are using their eyes as an extension of their sense of touch.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.44-59
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• 2020

This investigated the romanticism of Alessandro Michele who leads new trends in fashion industry as a creative director for Gucci. In this study, 307 women's wears exhibited by Alessandro Michele for 3 years in Milan collections from 2015 F/W to 2017 F/W are categorized according to the aesthetic characteristics of romanticism. Additionally, the five aesthetic features of Gucci's fashion design are an addition since the appearance of abnormally large size under the influence of postmodernism. The results based on the study purpose are as follows. First, the decoration makes the garments stand out by using fancy materials, splendid multicolor combination, applique embroidery and three-dimensional objects. Second, exotic style is expressed from an occidental perspective using Chinese traditional fashion or textiles, and exotic accessories. Thirdly, sensuality is manifested using see-through materials to emphasize women's breasts, or the beautiful and sexual expression of women's body. Fourth, the new creations are designed by combining contrasting elements, such as disparate materials and, different genders. Furthermore, traditional cultures like baroque and rococo, and the 1970's vintage looks inspires the creation of retro-style. Finally, the appearance of extremely large shoulders, silhouettes, and details of the human body can be explained with expansive tendency. The aforementioned results further suggest that diverse characteristics are expressed via reflection of contemporary art and trends.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.582-590
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• 2010

Garment design needs an iterative manipulation of 2D patterns to generate a final sloper. Traditionally there have been two kinds of design methodologies such as the flat pattern method and the pattern draping method. But today, it is possible to combine the advantages from the two methods due to the realistic cloth simulation techniques. We devised a new garment design system which starts from 3D initial drape simulation result and then modifies the garment by editing the 2D flat patterns synchronously. With this interactive methodology using real-time pattern deformation technique, the designer can freely change a pattern shape by watching its 3D outlook in real-time. Also the final garment data were given relative coordinates with respect to the human anthropometric feature points detected by an automatic body feature detection algorithm. Using the relative human body coordinate system, the final garments can be re-used to an arbitrary body data without repositioning in the drape simulation. A female shirt was used for an example and a 3D body scan data was used for an illustration of the feature point detection algorithm.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1023-1035
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• 2008

This study conducted a survey to find out dermatitis patients' preferred garment performance and their sentiment in spring/summer knitwears. SPSS 12.0 program was used for factor analysis, frequency analysis, T-test, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; First, in garments, patients required 'health hygiene', 'practicality in use care', 'skin contact' and 'easy movement'. Especially, 'skin contact' is an important property to be considered in patients' clothes. Second, in garment sensitivity, patients importantly considered 'modesty', 'feminine', 'boldness', 'decency', 'easy movement', 'youth', and 'simplicity'. Third, patients preferred simple and modest plain knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. And especially, dot pattern in knitwears should be avoided. Fourth, the preferred style of patients was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease.' They also preferred 'front closed,' ; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib'. Male preferred simple and plain style with round collar of 'tubular trim' and 'rib trim', while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with setin sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.157-165
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• 2008

Transient thermal response of five types of underwear(cotton jersey, wool jersey, nylon jersey, cotton mesh and polyester mesh) for a protective coverall is evaluated using a sweating thermal manikin. Experimental protocol for transient thermal response of the sweating thermal manikin was also proposed. As results, it was found that steady state thermal response from sweating thermal manikin was not sensitive enough to evaluate thermal comfort of the experimental garments. However, when half time is used as an index of the heat flux change in transient thermal response, difference was found among underwear materials. Half time of cotton was the shortest and heat transfer of cotton was the fastest followed by polyester mesh, cotton jersey, nylon jersey and wool jersey. Dynamic thermal response of wool underwear was quite different from that of cotton underwear. Wool shows quite less heat flow at the initial stage, however, moisture permeability of wool was higher than cotton at the later stage. It was difficult to distinguish surface temperature difference visually using thermogram taken right before the completion of dry and wet test in steady state thermal response.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.312-324
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• 2011

This investigates the type of pants preferred by Korean men in their 20s through a subjective wear test. Six types of men's pants were developed as experimental garments. The male subjects were university students between the ages of 20 and 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental pants were rated using seven Likert scales. A 7-point Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 indicating the best fit. As a result, a basic men's sloper for lower body clothing was developed based on SizeKorea 2004 anthropometric measurements surveyed between 2003 and 2004. A basic pattern (A) was manipulated to tight-fit pants (E) and loose-fit pants (D, L, M, and N) by considering the ease at hip level and the style. Among the six pants, pants D and L (4cm ease at hip level) were found to be superior to others in terms of comfort, fitting, and crotch depth. With regard to ease and comfort of the crotch part, pants E and A (0cm ease at hip level) were found to be the least preferred.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.10
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• pp.1215-1227
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• 2011

The recent craze for so-called skinny jeans is illustrative of the restraint of the body through dress. This phenomenon is noteworthy when considering the internalization of the corset in contemporary fashion. Grown out of the garments of soundly practical use, blue jeans have led the stream of fashion for about 150 years and now they serve as the new corset idealizing the female body in the form of skinny jeans. This study intends to examine the idealization of the body in contemporary fashion and focus on skinny jeans as an externalized corset. The struggle with corsets continues in that the real body is overwhelmed by fashion items. In the aspect of idealizing the body by constraining the body parts, skinny jeans externalize the control of the body as contemporary corsets. This study conducts literature research and content analysis as the method of investigation and focuses on women's fashion from the 20th century. Exerting a harmful influence on health (as corsets have done) the body in skinny jeans is regarded as a modifiable entity. The thinness of the body achieved by skinny jeans suggests the controlling power over the body. Moreover, this gives access to the power presented by the contemporary ideal of thinness. Skinny jeans are modern day glass slippers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.126-140
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• 2020

This study analyzed the self-identified cold tolerance and wearing behavior of teenagers inside and outside the classroom during winter, considering recent climate changes. A questionnaire was divided into four parts-general information, thermal and comfort sensation inside and outside classroom, self-identified cold tolerance, and wearing behavior to collect data from 322 students. Over several years, changes were noted in respondents' wearing behavior during winter outings, with the biggest being the purchase of a "long padded jacket" for warmth while outside. Most respondents showed similar wearing behavior, such as no difference between the number of clothes worn in a classroom maintained at 20℃ (girls: 8.0±3.1 layer, boys: 6.5±2.1 layer) and outside (girls: 8.8±3.4 layer, boys: 7.1±3.0 layer), despite feeling differently about the thermal sensation inside and outside the classroom. This difference may due to a teenager's lack of knowledge about temperature and their tendency to follow clothing trends. Female students were more sensitive to the cold and wore more garments inside and outside the classroom. Gender-related differences should be considered when educating teenagers about safe and healthy clothing.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.113-122
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• 2008

This study surveyed the physical properties of the domestic and foreign worsted fabrics which are used for men's garments. For this purpose, forty specimens which were divided into 1st fourteen specimens and 2nd twenty six ones were prepared and the physical property assessment by Blind field test was carried out by test committee. The subjective test items by Blind field test were chosen as handle(softness, flexibility), color(brightness, deepness), appearance(cleanness, natural lustre) and comparison priority.