• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.40-44
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• 2004

Fragrance-like style-is one of the intangible aspects of costume history that we often wish had been preserved. Garments were perfumed both to impart a pleasurable impression and to mask disagreeable odors from use or from production processes such as tanning and dyeing. Expensive gloves were traditionally perfumed, as well as lace collars, silk stockings and shawls. Both historical and modern attempts have been made to create scents that please the wearer and attract the oppoiste sex, while (preferable) also repelling osquitoes and moths! Unintentional perfuming also occurred, which we sometimes may be lucky to find in our museum collections. How do we describe and identify the transient odors of museum objects, and at what cost can they be preserved and presented for the public? This lecture includes samples of reconstructed historical scents presented in costume exhibitions at the Royal Danish Collections.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.39-51
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fit of ready-to-wear garment for girls at the age of puberty and to find out the respective differences by age and locality. For this study, a questionnaire survey was conducted to 547 girls in Seoul and Gyeonggi-do. As a whole. the largest parts of complaints for unfitness were height, waist circumference and, next hip circumference. According to the result of comparing the fit of ready-to-wear garment by items, the fit of clothing for girls at the age of puberty gets relatively worse with the increase of age in all items except one-piece. As for the fit by parts of ready-to-wear garment, significant differences were observed according to age in the length of sleeve, crotch and the length of upper garments. That is, girls at the age of 10${\sim}$11 were found to think that their clothes are long in the three measures.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.83-90
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• 2001

Cooling garments are being considered for reducing heat strain in hot environment. We evaluated the effectiveness of ice gel-based cooling vest in hot environment both resting and exercising. Four male subjects were exposed to heat(4$0^{\circ}C$, 50%RH) with vest or without it. The results were as follows; In case of the trial wearing ice gel-based cooling vest, total body weight loss, and local sweat volume were less than those without it. Mean skin temperature, rectal temperature, pulse, energy expenditure, temperature of inside clothes, and humidity of inside also were lower than those without cooling vest. By subjective thermal sensation, subjective humidity sensation, and thermal comfort sensation, it was proved that non-wearing vest decreased comfort than wearing that. These results suggested that wearing ice gel-based cooling vest reduced human heat strain in hot environment both resting and exercising.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.169-175
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• 2003

A simulation system for versatile garment drape has been developed. Using this system, the shape of a garment can be simulated in consideration of fabric physical properties as well as the interaction between fabrics and other objects. Each fabric piece in a garment is modeled using a geometrically constrained particle system and its behavior is calculated from an implicit numerical integration algorithm in a relatively short time. The system consists of three modules including a preprocessor for the preparation of fabric patterns and external objects, a postprocessor for the results of three-dimensional visualization, and a drape simulation engine. It can be used for the design process of textile goods, garments, furniture, or upholsteries.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.14-25
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to define mass customization in the apparel industry and to discover, the apparel industry's potential to deliver customized apparel products. Different from product-centered mass Production, mass customization is focusing on customers' unique needs. The goal of mass customization is for customers to find exactly what they want at a reasonable price. Using new technologies such as 3-D body scanning and digital printing, mass customization can give customers customfit and personalized garments. Mass customization can satisfy a customer in terms of personalization, fit and design. Adoption of mass customization will open new opportunities for the apparel manufacturer of the future. Mass customization is a strategy that apparel manufacturers should consider for their goals.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.30-37
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• 2003

The most distinctive feature of the costumes of the Arctic regions from Alaska to Siberia centering around the Bering Sea connecting Asia to North America, is that each tribe makes clothes adequate to the climate and their lifestyles with animal hides obtained from hunting in their habitation. Furs or fish skins, the main materials for clothing, are characteristically cut into many pieces, and thus piece-joining patchwork is used to make or decorate garments. Patchwork is the technique that can create new designs with 3-dimensional and various combinations by modifying the simple materials, and also has the advantage of fitting the body without a certain cut line. Therefore, the patchwork found in the Arctic costumes may be developed from folk costume designs with limited materials like fur into new ones for modern or future costumes.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2007

In the decade of the 1920s in an America, with booming of economy, people had more money. And with the development of transportation, people can afford expensive traveling throughout Europe. With this reason they were exposed to a nobility of European style and liked royalty more than before. American hunting man wanted traditional dress to express their status as a psychological code and the reason of the existing very similar hunting garment in nowadays is based on this belief. The purpose of this study is not merely understanding the styles of American Men's hunting and shooting garments in the 1920s but understanding the psychology of the people. People quite clearly do not dress according to function ore need alone and, in fact the consumption of clothes increasingly serves no other purpose than to fulfill or express psychological or social, rather than practical need.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.142-154
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• 2003

This study was conducted on the costume of the 6 minorities dwelling in Guizhou Province of China. The result of the study is summarized as follows. As Guizhou Province yields much silver, most of the minorities used silver ornaments a lot and dyed their garments by using indigo extracted from plants that grow in the area. The headdress was of style that for both men and women a long cloth is wound around a head in various ways. In some cases, women used cow's horn, pearl and silver ornaments. Most wore a short upper garment such as blouses with overlapping necks or blouses with diagonal on the front, and as a lower garment men and women wore trousers and skirts, respectively. As a way of ornament, embroidering, wax printing and weaving were commonly used, but pattern and color used in the ornament varied depending on the individual minorities.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 1997년도 한국감성과학회 연차학술대회논문집
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• pp.47-52
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• 1997

This study was carried out to investigate effects of fabric properties and the changes of microclimates on comfort sensations and to identify effective varuables on clothing wear comfort sensations. A wied range of nontreated and functionally treated woven fabrics, knits, and nonwoven fabrics and test garments made of them were used as specimens. Linear structural equation was used to analyze causal relation among the variables on a path diagram. The results were as follows: 1. Almost of causal relations among variables were significant excdpt the effects of fabric properties including air permeability and water-vapor permebility on the changes of microclimate temperature. 2. Fabric properties were most effective variables on clothing wear comfort sensations including thermal sensation, subjeceive wettedness, and overall comfort and therefore comfort sensations and fabric properties were identified for improving clothing comfort.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권7호
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• pp.1153-1161
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• 1997

The insulation provided by clothing system is usually expressed in terms of a coo units and its distribution of the body, directly affect convective, conductive, and radiant heat loss from the skin to the environment Evaporated heat loss is dependent upon fabric permeability, the amount of body surface area covered by clothing, and the pumping of air between the body and garment layers. Persons at low to medium activity levels, dressed in conventional apparel in door environments, usually do not lose a large amount of heat through evaporation. Thermal manikin technology is used to measure the resistance to heat transfer provided by clothing systems. The reciprocal of this value, 6.45 W/m2.$^{\circ}C$ is often used in calculations for convenience. The purpose of this study was to implement a research program for calculation the insulation value (clo), body surface area and basal metabolic rate of selected clothing system. The project provided for the building of an insulation data base for use in evaluating and comparing new and improved garments.