This study conducted a questionnaire survey of family restaurant employees in Seoul on their satisfaction and preference in working uniforms, and analysed the result to suggest adequate designs to serve the purposes of uniforms. The result is as follows - First, many pointed out a need to improve generally showing a low satisfaction with varying degrees according to sexes and ages. More women complained about colors, designs, materials and sizes than men did, and young employees in their twenties wanted better designs, colors and sizes in the order while those in their thirties and forties were dissatisfied mostly with materials. The need fur the improvement was focused on function and designs, and as for uniform materials, perspiration absorbency had the highest level of dissatisfaction. Second, about 40% of the respondents said the skirt width, pants length, and sleeve width were trio small or too big, therefore it is vital to improve uniform sizes. Third, the employees on duty felt uncomfortable mostly when they sat, and the neck and armhole parts were the most uncomfortable. The most easily tainted parts were in the order of the collar, front hem, and sleeve seam for upper garments, and the hip, bottom hem, and pleats for lower ones. Therefore it is required to develop functional uniforms considering the body features and momentum. Fourth, the most preferred material was that guaranteed easy movement and good air-permeability, and colors were in the order of white, beige and black for upper garments, and black, beige and blue for lower ones. And plain, natural and stripped patterns were preferred by both men and women. As seen so far, restaurant employees were mostly dissatisfied with the design, movement, and function of their uniforms demanding functional ones made of better and comfortable material. Uniform designs were suggested based on the analysis of the demonstrative rese.
The purpose of this study is to develop a dress form for elderly women according to their somatotype to be used for improving the fit of garments and patterns. Analyzing each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the 4 somatotypes in most of measure items. Bend-forward Group had shorter front length items. Abdomen-fat Group had lower upper-body values than Average Group and similar lower-body values to Fat Group. In most items except height, Fat Group had the biggest values. Analyzing the mean cross-section according to the section measurement parts, no difference existed in shoulder part and under bust part. However, in upper bust, bust, waist, abdomen, high hip, and hip parts, a significant difference existed. Also, according to the results of the mean cross-section as well as the average cross overlap section for each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the four somatotypes. Thus, Abdomen-fat Group and Fat Group were similar, while Bend-forward Group and Average Group were alike. According to the increase of age, lower body tended to have more conspicuous changes. Analyzing the profile of somatotypes, there existed a obvious significant difference among the 4 somatotypes, implying that the characteristics of somatotype need to be reflected when to develop dress forms for elderly women. Therefore, these differences must be an essential factor in pattern design. Comparing the current dress form with the dress form developed with simulation, we could find that a dress form developed for elderly women which reflects the characteristics of body shape is much better than a dress form developed by simple size variation such as small, medium and large size divisions to improve the fit of garments and pattern designs.
Physical measurements of 181 Korean elderly women, aged 60 through 79, living in the Seoul area, were taken in 1981 in order to analyze their body types and to study clothing construction according to their body types. The study was composed of 117 items in all; 35 items in measurements, 1 items in Rohrer index, 68 items in physical index to stature and bust girth, and 14 items in proportion, Coefficients of correlation among body dimensions were used. The results from this analysis are as follows: 1) The most significant changes in body dimensions in advanced age were the decrease of bust height and the increase of both abdomen girth and waist girth. 2) Distinct physical changes did not appear until advanced senescence(70~79 years of age). 3) In the three somatotype groups(thin, average, and plump) categorized by their Rohrer index, the dimensions that remained unchanged in senescence were back waist length and front waist length ; the dimensions that varied most significantly in senescence were the waist measurements. 4) As a result of the analysis of coefficients of correlation among the body dimensions of the 3 figure groups categorized by the Rohrer index, the fundamental dimensions for establishing the size of ready-to-wear garments of elderly women were the stature, bust girth and center back length in upper garments. 5) The result of the analysis of physical index and proportion of the 3 figure groups showed that the more plump a figure might be, the ratio of depth to width measurements increased; the back waist height was higher and trunk enlarged. 6) The 9 figure categorized by their Rohrer index and stature showed that the percentage of women in the category of“normal figure”decreased more in advanced senescence than during early senescence. 7) An analysis of variation of the 9 figure groups, the stature and other items for a short and thin figure were the smallest, and for a tall and plump figure, the largest.
본 연구는 에어제트텍스쳐링 장치에서 공급되는 코어사와 이펙트사인 아라미드와 나일론의 구성이 방호의류용 아라미드/나일론 ATY와 아라미드 ATY의 물성변화에 대한 연구이다. 아라미드 필라멘트 표면의 매끄러움 때문에 아라미드 ATY의 강도 저하는 나일론 ATY에 비해 훨씬 높았다. 아라미드/나일론 ATY 강도는 ATY의 이펙트사인 나일론의 강도에 가장 영향을 많이 받았다. 나일론 ATY의 절단신도는 에어제트텍스쳐링 이전의 나일론에 비해 두 배정도 높은 값을 나타내었으며, 아라미드 ATY와 아라미드/나일론 ATY는 에어제트텍스쳐링 이전에 비해 5.9~6.7배 정도로 높았다. 아라미드 ATY의 초기탄성률은 아라미드의 에어제트텍스쳐링 이전에 비해 86.5%정도 감소하였으며, 아라미드/나일론 ATY의 초기탄성률은 아라미드 ATY와 나일론 ATY 초기탄성률의 산술평균치를 나타내었다. 아라미드/나일론 하이브리드 ATY의 습 건열 수축률은 나일론의 영향을 받음을 알 수 있었다.
Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.
A new technology of fashion show is opening the digital era and an imaginary fashion show is now arising as a new form of fashion show which allows one to enjoy a collection through the monitor without holding a real fashion show. Digital fashion show allows designer to create infinite ideas by articulating the designer's concept through not only garments but also other factors. In this research, We will analyze cases which are mixtures of digital technology and fashion show and will suggest a new paradigm of fashion show by producing an imaginary fashion show which cannot be easily articulated in an ordinary real fashion show, articulated by garments created by digital technology and graphic effects. The program used for this study is 'DC Suite 2.0' developed by Physan and Digital Clothing Center of Seoul National University, available for 2D pattern production and 3D simulation. In addition, in order to enhance representation of the visual effects, Maya's Qualoth and V-ray program which could be compatible with 'DC Suite' were used to make 3D digital fashion show.
This study analyzed the purchase status of athleisure wear and consumers' dissatisfaction with online shopping post-COVID-19. The target population comprised female consumers in their 20s to 50s who are interested in exercise and fashion. The study investigated differences according to age. It was found that athleisure wear was purchased once every two to three months and used as sportswear and/or daily wear. Purchase information was obtained via the Internet, and purchases were made online. Design, price, wear sensation, and textiles were the most important selection criteria, and T-shirts and leggings were the most frequently purchased garments. Additionally, textile characteristics such as moisture-absorbing and quick-drying as well as elasticity were evaluated as important. Online shopping of athleisure wear has increased since COVID-19 due to the time savings, low price, opportunity to compare several products, and delivery convenience. However, consumers were dissatisfied due to the differences between the screen image and the actual product, the inconvenience of returns, exchanges, and refunds, the lack of product information, product quality, and delivery. Furthermore, it was found that pursuing value of athleisure wear differed according to age. Consumers in their 20s and 30s required athleisure wear with the characteristics of sportswear and daily or urban wear and those in their 40s and 50s required garments with good performance as sportswear. Based on consumer feedback, it is necessary for manufacturers to provide product information that can improve product reliability.
This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people's clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe's shamanistic practices and lifestyle.
The purpose of this study was to examine the thermal comfort characteristics of the garments for school, textile and bank worker's uniform. The garments selected for this study were frequently used in Taegu area in terms of design and material used for making garments by the survey for the study The human subject tests were performed to determine the thermal comfort characteristics of garments including thermal, humidity, and wearing sensation and the data were analysed statistically. The results of the study were as follows: 1. According to the result of the survey jacket was mostly used as a school uniform for both male and female high school students. The survey showed that 93% of male students wore 'neck T-shirts' and dimensional fitness for the school uniform got suitable at 2~3 grade high school students. In terms of human subject tests, most students rated 'uncomfortable' in wearing sensation of their school uniform. One of this reason was due to the humidity sensation and air velocity sensation. Level of significance of the thermal sensation for gender difference was higher in hands and feet of the subjects than in chest and thigh of them. 2. According to the result of the survey jacket with zipper was mostly used as a textile worker's uniform. The result of the survey indicated that some textile workers are wearing their inner wear (38.7% for upper and 46.6% for lower). In the human subject tests, about 50% of subjects rated 'comfortable to slightly comfortable' for wearing sensation of the textile worker's uniform. It showed that the female subjects of the humidity sensation was rated higher than the male subjects of the humidity sensation, while the male subjects of the thermal sensation was rated higher than the female subjects of the thermal sensation. There was a closer correlation with the subjective thermal sensation for textile worker's uniform in center parts of the subjects such as back and waist than exposed parts. 3. The result of the survey showed that 70% and 23% of the female banker uniform were blouse and jacket, respectively and 75% and 25% of the male banker uniform were jacket and T-shirt, respectively. All interviewee rated trousers and skirts that were used for their lower. 4. The result indicated that 50% male and 67.7% female subjects for the banker uniform rated 'slightly comfortable for the comfort' sensation. 50% male subjects rated 'neutral' and about 50% female subjects rated 'slightly warm to neutral' for the thermal sensation. In addition, The result showed that 75% male subjects for both upper and lower rated 'neutral' for the humidity sensation and also 75% female subjects rated 'neutral to slightly dry'. Thus, there was no significant different between gender. 5. In the thermal sensation of the subjects for the banker's uniform by parts, 50% subjects rated 'neutral' for their body parts, including head, neck, back, waist, hip, lower arm, and thigh. The extremely cold parts were hands and feet for both male and female subjects.
When we develop 2D pattern from replica of human body with small pieces, it is inevitable to have some replica pieces overlapped or departed. In this study, the optimized method of 2D pattern development from the 3D replica pieces was investigated using dress-form. Among six arrangement methods, anchoring two vertexes of a replica to neighboring vertexes of a next replica induces the optimized 2D pattern by evenly distributing stress across the 3D replica pieces. Anchoring neighboring vertexes resulted in automatic widening k overlapping (W & O) the interspaces among replicas of dress-form, thereby stress was distributed more evenly than any other method. W&O arrangement method was verified to be the best by examining the 3D space distribution images between body surface and twelve experimental garments.
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