• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.458-467
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• 2017

There is increased interest in clothes dryers and garments made of spandex-blend woven fabrics; however, there is limited information available for the laundering and drying these clothes. This study investigates the effects of washing and drying on shrinkage, skewness, and wrinkle for woven fabrics with and without spandex. When spandex with good elastic recovery was blended, the deformed shape from washing and drying improved skewness and wrinkle by easily returning to its original shape. However, these properties had a negative effect on shrinkage in terms of length and area change. When the influence of clothes maintenance was classified, the drying process had the biggest influence of 58%, followed by spinning-rinsingwashing. Tumble drying, in which the fabric is exposed to mechanical force and heat for a long period, had more negative effects on the dimensional stability than line drying. The spandex blend had the effect of preventing skewness and wrinkle in garments, but it was also shown to accelerate shrinkage by garment maintenance cycles. It was important to control drying in order to reduce shrinkage during the maintenance process; consequently, this had the greatest influence on the dimensional stability of fabrics. Therefore, line drying was more advantageous for spandex-blend fabrics than tumble drying in terms of management for shrinkage, skewness, and wrinkle.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the street style of women in Dalian, China. 1.185 females of Dalian central street have participated for the survey of this study. This study analyzes characterization of the street style and, classifies it's characteristics by age groups, clothing styles, and clothing items. There are three outcomes due to the aim of this study, 1. In age group classification, every age groups preferred casual style. Especially, young/young adults preferred mix-match styles with various designs. Distinctly, some of missy group preferred fashion trend and others preferred mature style. Also, the preference of missies/madame's group is obviously divided into two groups which pursues fashion trend and not. 2. In clothing style classification, casual styles such as mini-skirts, hot pants, tight t-shirts are mostly in tight silhouette. Also, the main colors are indigo-blue, white, black and point color, which are vivid tone and fluorescent colors. The characteristics of sport casual style contribute the upper garment and the lower garment, which forms a set. Classic styles are divided into two groups of typical formal dress and traditional Qipao dress. The colors of feminine style and textile printing are more sumptuous than other styles. 3. In clothing items classification, the points of the upper garments is the construction of designs, textile printing, ornament with beads, embroidery, and ribbon etc., exposed back. The lower garments like hot pants and mini-skirts are made of jeans. The cargo pants that is made of jean, cotton, luster textile. Also, one-piece dress has the characteristics of tiered and irregular hem line.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1582-1592
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to suggest production planning model for women's apparel manufacturer, which are relevant to the situation of Korean clothing industry. The research was based on simulation method. The basic model for the simulation was developed based on the empirical data from six production fm. After verifying the basic model, low alternative production plans went through trial run. In order to suggest the application of these alternative production plans for various style numbers and lot sizes, the simulation results were compared in terms of product efficiency and product cost. The four alternative plans were as follows: 1. The first alternative was to spread out work loads among workers in order to resolve bottlenecks in work flow. So this was suited to manufacturers that had constant production without regard to changing seasons. 2. The second alternative was to merge the skirt and trouser production, which require less work load, in one line. In this line, a few machine was justified by production improvement. It was suited to cases which producted various style suits. The third and fourth alternative were using another subcontractor for assembling inner shell garments. These was compatible in manufacturers which had to product more styles and sizes of trousers and skirts than those of upper garments. 3. The third alternative was to reassign the same workers in production line. Thus, production was increased. 4. The fourth alternative was to except two worker in production line, so expenses of worker's wage was decreased. The four alternatives could be one of the cost effective manufacturing plans according to manufacturer situations.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.404-417
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• 2006

The purpose of this thesis, therefore, is to examine the shaping methods and the knitting drafts of sleeve cap in the knitwears which are currently used by the manufacturers; to study the curve forms of sleeves in knitwears by analyzing synthetically the results of investigating the problems of knit wear sleeves; to present the most suitable sleeve cap for the knitwears. As the studying methods, I collected the basic data from the working-level persons of knit wear manufacturers, examined the knitting draft in the knitwears, and from that, made three kinds of comparative experimental garments and one kind of research experimental one as 10G and 16G. In doing so, I showed the sleeve cap suitable for the knitwears with plain stitch after operating sensual evaluation with Liker's 5-point rating measure. The analysis of data was handled with statistics by using SPSS Ver. 12.0; the method of statistics was executed by Frequency Analysis, Trust Analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan test according to each topic of the research. As the result of the sensual evaluation of the experimental garments produced from the study, the research experimental garment looks better than the comparative experimental one in both 10G and l6G; has less extra folds around the front part of sleeve cap; looks more natural in sleeve caps of the body part and of a sleeve. From this, I am able to figure out that the research experimental garment looks better than the comparative experimental one produced by knit wear manufacturers. In addition, I can come to know that the different knitting of the front line and the back one of armhole in the knitwears has a favorable impact on improving the appearance of a sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.444-451
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• 2013

This paper surveys the physical properties of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid air-jet textured yarns(ATY) for protective garments according to wet and dry texturing conditions. Aramid and nylon filaments were used to make two kinds of para-aramid ATY and four kinds of aramid/nylon hybrid ATY with dry and wet treatments. The analyzed physical properties of six specimens (made on the ATY machine) are as follows. The tenacity and initial modulus of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY decreased with the wetting and breaking strain; however, the yarn linear density of aramid and hybrid ATY increased with wetting treatment. The dry and wet thermal shrinkage of the hybrid ATY increased with wetting. The stability of aramid and hybrid ATY also increased with wetting. The physical properties of core/effect type hybrid ATY showed significantly more change than the core type hybrid ATY and the physical properties of nylon/aramid core/effect hybrid ATY showed significantly more change than the of aramid/nylon core/effect hybrid ATY. A higher bulky and breaking strain of hybrid ATY require ATY processing conditions of nylon on the core part with wetting and aramid on the effect part. ATY processing conditions for nylon and aramid on the core part with wetting are required for a higher tenacity and modulus. ATY processing conditions of nylon and aramid on the core with no wetting are required for a low thermal shrinkage.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.437-443
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• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid air jet textured filaments for protective garments relative to ATY nozzle diameters. Three types of para-aramids(840d, 1,000d, 1,500d) and nylon(420d) filaments were prepared; in addition, 840d aramid/420d nylon and three kinds of aramid filaments were texturized with a variation of air jet nozzle diameters(0.6, 0.75, 1 and 1.2 mm) on the AIKI air jet texturing machine. The measured physical properties of 16 specimens are as follows. The linear densities of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY increased with a larger nozzle diameter. The tenacity and initial modulus of aramid and hybrid ATY linearly decreased with a larger nozzle diameter; in addition, the breaking strain increased with the nozzle diameter. The dry and wet thermal shrinkage of hybrid ATY increased with a larger nozzle diameter from 0.6 mm to 1 mm and then decreased at a nozzle diameter of 1.2 mm (which seems to be a critical diameter). The wet and dry thermal shrinkage of aramid/nylon hybrid ATY are influenced by the nylon part of the hybrid yarns because the wet and dry thermal shrinkages of aramid ATY are less than 0.2%. The instabilities of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY were not influenced by the air jet nozzle diameter; however, they increased with the linear density of ATY.