• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.91-101
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• 2014

String, as clothing material, has played a functional, symbolic and decorative role in garment traditionally. The string has a shape of continuous line, which is one of the basic elements for the design: points, lines and sides. It can effectively represent the silhouette by making our vision flow to a certain direction. This study reinterprets the traditional form of string in a new modern way by developing "Tube-Shaped String" which has an empty hole in the middle. As a creative attempt, the new tube-shaped string can be used for fashion design by applying it to unique shapes, colors, textures, and draping expressions. In a role dimension, this string can become the main fabric material. The methods of the study are as follows. First, it examines the traditional shape and role of string in the history of garment. Second, it studies modern designers, such as Christian Dior, Ann Demeulemeester, Dolce & Gabbana, and 3.1 Phillip Lim, who have applied the string to their design, and have explored the various potentials of the string in the past four years. Finally, based on the theoretical research and practical analysis, this study creates a new tube-shaped string, applying its own technique to fabricating three garments: jacket, dress, and body suit. As a result, each garment shows unique silhouettes, rich texture and color, and rhythmical movement. The unique silhouettes reflect the shape and movement of different bodies. The texture and color are created through the shades of the string which come from the overlapping strips. The garments come with an unbeatable aesthetic design compared to conventional uniform design. As a new material in clothing, this tube-shaped string can be developed to satisfy the public, which has widely varying tastes in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.401-408
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• 2007

The study aims to examine consumer awareness of green fashion products and demographic characteristics by subdividing environmentally conscious consumers of such products in the current domestic fashion market. It then compares the result with the characteristics of environmentally conscious consumers studied by 1999 in order to understand the trend of the consumer group in the fashion market and to promote the use of green fashion products. Marketing strategies for green fashion products suggested by the study are as follows: First, fashion firms are required to develop and publicize shops selling recycled or second-hand clothing that environmentally conscious consumers show constant interest. For instance, clothing patterns may be developed to enable consumers to make their kids' clothing easily at home, and various garments made from recycled materials may stimulate environmentally conscious consumers' desire to buy. Particularly, advanced technologies should be developed and publicized to manufacture garments that can excel existing ones made of normal materials in their features in order to satisfy consumers' interest in clothing made from recycled PET bottles. In addition, various natural dyes should be developed to decrease water pollution. Second, it seems imperative to develop clothing made of recycled knitted apparel that attracts consumers' interest more than ever, fashionable multi-purpose clothing, and environmentally friendly materials. As the use of natural fur or leather can cause the endangerment of wild animals and the destruction of the ecosystem, synthetic fur or leather may be used to develop sophisticated products with the same texture as real ones to attract environmentally conscious consumers' interest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.339-347
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• 1994

In this study the physiological significance of the upper and lower body on thermoregulation and sensation are examined. Experiments were carried out on 4 females in a climatic chamber conditioned at $25\pm1^{circ}C, 50\pm5%$ R.H.. Before the measurements, subjects were exposed to 3 types of enviromental temperature: 1) $25\pm1^{\circ}C$ for 60 min.(ST), 2) $25^{\circ}C$\rightarrow35^{circ}C\rightarrow25^{\circ}C$ for about 40 min.(HT), 3) $25^{\circ}C$\rightarrow15^{circ}C\rightarrow25^{\circ}C$ for about 40 min.(LT) covering the upper body (U) or lower body (L) with garments. 1) $T_{re}$ was significantly higher in L than in U only in 57 condition. $T_{sk}$ and Temp. under the clothing were higher in U than in L in all three conditions. Thermal sensation was warmer in U than in L, and comport sensation was most comfortable in HT condition. 2) When the upper or lower body was covered or exposed, the mean skin temperature of the upper body was higher than that of the lower body. Following covering and uncovering the same area, the changes in skin temperature were greater in the upper body than in lower body, and covering the upper body produced a greater difference of skin temperature between body and lower body than covering the lower body. 3) In all environmental conditions, when the upper body was uncovered, the skin temperatures of the chest, upper arms and forearms dropped to a considerable degree, and when the lower body was uncovered, skin temperatures of the legs showed the same pattern. On the other hand, skin temperature of the thinghs showed only little change in all cases except forehead and back uncovered or covered in two clothing types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.337-348
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• 2002

Based upon literature survey and questionnaire survey, this research tries to develop four new Cleanroom Garment in semiconductor industrial environment. The designs emphasize to minimize workers disconmfort so that they can not only cover human body fully but also reduce dust as much as possible during work hour in clean room. The new designs characteristics and results from both function test and dust emission test are as follows: 1. In order to reduce dust-emission, we develop new designs with hood, kimono sleeve, and back zipper. The designs with hood face positive test results in term of motion suitability and dust-omission. The design with seam in front, in particular, is effective to control dust-emission. 2. For the purpose of reducing dust-emission, we also emphasize to minimize ease of dust-proof wear, with reference to previous research and clothing experiment. The experiment participants report that the new wears are not so comfortable as existing ones, but they accept the new wears positive as effective in reducing dust-emission owing to reduced ease of Cleanroom Garment and sleeves. 3. A1so to reduce dust-emission in inner wear, we put inner wear in both Cleanroom Garments and inner wear, resulting to remove discomfort of wearers when changing clothes and of tight waist due to inner-trousers. 4. We develop new designs with elastic bands in both waist through the side lines and with velcro only at the back side. To remove twist in front contributes to reduce emission arising out of friction, also to free the appearance minding woman workers from worrying about exposed stomach. The new designs need to be accepted as a valuable alternative of Cleanroom Garment, in that they are highly effective to reduce dust-emission, which is the most important factor in the wear, in spite of some drawbacks in terms of motion-suitability, ease and appearance as shown in wearing test.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.928-939
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• 2012

This study evaluates wear comforts of water-vapor-permeable (WVP) garments through a measurement of various parameters such as skin and rectal temperatures, microclimate between skin and clothing, sweat rate, and subjective sensations (thermal, wet and comfort sensations) to correlate the physiological responses of the human body with its comfort feeling. Wear comfort during a specific exercise on a treadmill in a climatic chamber (temperature T = $20{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ and relative humidity H = $50{\pm}10%$) were studied using eight men wearing seven sportswear outfits (a long sleeve shirts and a long pants) made with seven different WVP fabrics. A comfort sensation was found to be highly correlated with skin T (p<.001), microclimate (T and H) between skin and clothing (p<.001) and sweat rate (p<.05). A regression model correlating comfort sensations and physiological responses obtained from wearer trials could be established: Y = 14.167 - 0.362 ${\times}$ X1 + 0.424 ${\times}$ X2 - 0.238 ${\times}$ X3 - 0.561 ${\times}$ X4 + 0.253 ${\times}$ X5 + 0.214 ${\times}$ X6 - 0.393 ${\times}$ X7 + 0.023 ${\times}$ X8 - 0.043 ${\times}$ X9. (Y = comfort sensation, X1 = forehead skin T, X2 = forearm skin T, X3 = hand skin T, X4 = thigh skin T, X5 = T of chest microclimate, X6 = T of thigh microclimate, X7 = chest sweat rate, X8 = H of back microclimate, X9 = H of thigh microclimate. The regression model obtained in this work can be used by manufacturers to objectively estimate the comfort sensation of sportswear before it is introduced to the consumer market. This study provides salient information to sportswear manufacturers and sportswear consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.1968-1979
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• 2010

New technology that includes 3D body scanning, digital virtual human, and digital virtual garments has had a significant impact on the current apparel industry. Virtual simulation technology enables the visualization of a 3D virtual garment on a virtual avatar so that consumers can try on garments with their virtual avatars before purchasing. However, the manual virtual avatar provided for online apparel shopping currently has revealed limitations on the different body sizes and shapes of customers. This study analyzes the process of designing the automatic virtual avatar and the manual virtual avatar using OptiTex software; in addition, the study compares the practicality of the automatic virtual avatar with that of the manual virtual avatar. Data was examined by evaluating how much each virtual avatar is similar to the real body and how well it matched the needs of the current apparel industry. In the study, Avatar 1 was automatically created from three-dimensional body scan data and Avatar 2 was manually created from body measurements. The virtual avatar images laid over a real body image and the results were evaluated by comparing the simulated sizes of virtual avatars with those of a real body. Consequently, Avatar 1 was evaluated as more similar to the real body than Avatar 2 in all five body shapes. This study illustrates that an automatic virtual avatar might solve the fit problem that is the most common reason for a high return rate for online shopping. The results show that future virtual simulation technology needs to be improved for the practicality of the virtual avatars.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.42-52
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• 2015

This study considers the expressive types of 'Glocalism' trends and its inherent aesthetic characteristics through the analysis of flight attendants' uniform design. The following is the conclusions regarding the glocalism trend according to the analysis of airline uniform design that reflect it. First, the design approach was developed appropriating the whole or parts of traditional attire and applying decorative items in terms of a formal aspect. Secondly, the colors of the airline's homeland symbols or natural environment were used while, thirdly, the fabrics represent glocalism by employing folk elements of the region and patterns of nature for a uniform design. Induced from these design analyses, the aesthetic characteristics of airline uniforms reflecting glocalism are traditionality, naturality, and compromisability. To begin with, traditionality is what is realized in interpreting the historical aesthetics in a contemporary perspective, contributing in inspiring the historical value of the homeland and contributing to the establishment of identity by applying forms and colors of traditional garments with folk patterns on a uniform design. In addition, naturality means the reorganization of unprocessed pure nature, expressing the image of nature through colors taken from the natural environment or motifs of the regional plants. Finally, combining general sensibilities with diverse cultural features, compromisability is realized as a modern design which combines a standardized uniform with the aesthetic components of the local environment and traditional garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.9-17
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• 2007

Somatotype is human body shape and physique type which can be classified not only by the size, but also by the shape or posture of the body. Postural variations in the alignment of the back, shoulder, and neck can have an adverse effect on the fit of garments designed to hang from the shoulders. There have been some previous studies about the lateral upper torso by analyzing photographic measurements. In this study, 3D body scan images were used to classify the side somatotype of upper lateral method even though they are major data in the classification of upper torso. This study focused on following objective.; 1) To apply new and developing technology into the apparel industry analyzing 3D body scan images. 2) To classify upper laterla torso using the data through the new improver technology, 3D body scanner. 3) To propose basic materials for well fitted garments for each type of figure. The test subjects for this study were two hundreds nine female aged 19 years and up who were recruited in Cornell university body scan research team. Seventeen Variables(12 angles, 5 lengths) out of 3D body scan data were measured based on these landmarks and applied to analyze. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax and those factors comprise 62.5% of total variance. And the somatotype of upper body is classified into 3 types of figures according to cluster analysis; Bent forward posture, Straight posture, Swayback posture. Future study could be addressed about the somatotype of body by the age group based on the large database with wide variety of age.