• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.155-169
• /
• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary (원씨물어)$\lrcorner$. This book is a novel written by a Japanese sextant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments 8f Ornaments ; All the Clothing and Textiles in $\ulcorner$Genjimonkatary$\lrcorner$ were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color, Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors Sf Dyes; There were many kinds of Color SE Dyes described in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary$\lrcorner$. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period. $\ulcorner$Kasaneno-irome (강색목)$\lrcorner$ was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (금제) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors'name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro (청색) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials IE Patterns : The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome (신염) was very special and nice method in that period.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.71-78
• /
• 2014

Composite draw textured yarns(DTY) and air jet textured yarns(ATY) with hollow PET filament have been used for making high emotional fabrics including light weight sports wear garments. This study investigated effect of hollow composite yarns and fabric structural parameters to the comfort properties related to the moisture and thermal transport phenomena for the composite fabrics made of DTY and ATY with hollow PET filament. Wicking property of hollow composite fabric was superior at the high pore size fabric and was not influenced by fabric cover factor. Wicking property of the fabric with ATY was better than that of the fabric with DTY. On the other hand, drying rate of fine pore sized fabric was shorter than that of large pore sized fabric and drying rate of high multi yarn fabric with low cover factor and small pore size was superior than that of hollow composite fabric. The pore size of the fabric was dominant factor in the air permeability and thermal conductivity of hollow composite fabric. High pore sized fabric showed high air permeability and thermal conductivity of hollow composite fabric was nonlinearly inversely proportional to pore size of the fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.18
• /
• pp.247-268
• /
• 1992

The Clothing expresses people's desire of beauty most directly of all cultural inheritances, and it teach us how the human culture has changed and developed. In this study researched the history of buttonholes which make the clothes more functional and beautiful. Buttons and Buttonholes is one of detailed elements they used as a fastener or as a decoration on clothing. Button have been used since ancient times, in early times long before buttons were used as fasteners they had significant decorative and symbolic value. In ancient times, clothes fastened with pins, brooches, fibular and ties. In medieval Europe, it was not until the 13th century that they used the button in functional use, and then Chong Ryung-Lk was introduced from orient, and they became popular as fasteners on clothing during the 13th century when fitted clothes replaced loose garments. Garments were laced together or fastened with buttons, until buttonholes were invented in the 13th century. But as early as the 14th century it appears that someone discovered that a loop slipped over a button, or button pushed through a slit in the cloth, would make a good clothes fastener. Many buttons made during the modern ages were convex medallions set in metal rims and decorated with partraits of famous men and women. During the modern ages, buttons, with ligh-ographed pictures, covered with celluloid of glass were popular. In the 19th century, the mass production by machine made people use the button easily, and many different material of button easily and many different material of button was made. With the begining of the 20th century. the development of plastics led to various and functional buttons. The type of buttonholes also became various, as bound buttonhole, Tailred buttonhole, Worked buttonhole, Loop buttonhole and so on. The button has many forms which were imitated by nature, or made geometrically and the appearance of the button from behind is classified by what has holes and what has holes and what has a shank, and I also classified the kinds of button by the quality of the material design and use. Like this, with the passing of the time buttons and buttonholes have changed in appearance with the change of clothes, and they have standed for something meaningful as well as fixed the opening and made clothes more beautiful.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.6
• /
• pp.811-820
• /
• 2002

The physical responses and subjective sensations of different cleanroom garments were compared in order to discover which cleanroom garment design could minimize pollution of the working environment by dust from the worker, maintain a pleasant microclimate and provide effective thermoregulation. A. Coverall with non-detachable hood, kimono sleeves (front), raglan sleeves (back), raschell net on the bodice B. Coverall with detachable hood, kimono sleeves (front), raglan sleeves (back), raschell net on the bodice C. Separate top with non-detachable hood, kimono sleeves (front), raglan sleeves (back), raschell net on the bodice D. Coverall with non-detachable hood, set-in sleeves, raschell net on the bodice E. Coverall with non-detachable hood, raglan sleeves (back), l00% cotton inner wear (upper body) The results of the experiment were as follows. Because the hood covered the shoulder and the chest areas, the chests temperature of the worker wearing garment E was quite higher than those wearing other garment designs. For fabric that has been coated in order to prevent dust, layered designs should be avoided in order to prevent skin temperature from rising. Compared with layers of underwear, it would be more effective to attach a see-through raschell net which clings to the body. Thermal sensations were also highest in garment E, reinforcing the finding that layered designs should be avoided. Through the experiment, it was found that a new material coverall with a non-detachable hood was effective in minimizing dust, suppressing skin temperature increases, maintaining a superior microclimate and providing pleasant subjective sensations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.157-166
• /
• 1978

The purpose of this study was; (1) to examine ready-to-wear dresses to find the characteristics of labels and construction which existed at three different price levels and (2) to make the gathered information available to consumers, designers, manufacturers and the people who are concerned with ready-to-wear garments. A check sheet was made listing a wide variety of features which could cause garments to be different. For the statistical analysis. 87 dresses were used out of 116 dresses examined. Observation was made at the stores in Myung Dong, Suh-Dae Moon and No Ryang Jin in Seoul from February 16, 1978 to March 3, 1978. The findings are; 1. The average prices of high, medium and low priced levels were ${\\}54,728$, ${\\}41,448$ and ${\\}7,225$. The average price discrepancy between high and medium priced levels was ${\\}13,000$ and ${\\}34,194$ between medium and low priced levels. 2. Most of the dresses examined had labels in all three priced levels. The most informative labels were found on medium priced dresses and then high. The low priced dresses had no information which would be of help to the consumer in regard to care, size and Jiber content. 3. Most of the dresses examined were cut on lengthwise grain. The stitching of medium and high priced levels were satisfactory. The chief way of fastening threads at the end of stitching was by backtracking. $28\%$ of the low priced levels was found unappropriate in stitching number because it was too large to the fabric. Many dresses in low priced levels were not pressed well. The average hem width of low priced dresses were less than 3cm, the high 3-4cm and the medium 4-5cm. Hemming was done mostly by hand in high and medium and by machine in low priced dresses. The medium priced dresses used more linings than low and high priced dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.6 s.154
• /
• pp.892-903
• /
• 2006

This study was to carry out interview and survey of currently marketed foundation garment, focusing on manufacturers, on the basis of data of Year 2004 SIZE KOREA in 2004, to re-establish suitable age range and standard size, to simplify size interval scale and size system and to revise the standard for consumers' easy understanding and availability; The findings of this study are as follows. 1. Considering the age, in which a bra is worn, has reduced socially, the applicable age range was expanded into $8{\sim}80$ years old, which was divided into for junior and for adult. 2. For bra size, the standard title changed into the foundation garments size standard, in which girdle and bodysuit were included. 3. Basic physical parts for establishing for bra size are underbust and bust. Interval scale of under bust and bust was 5cm and 2.5cm, respectively. And basic physical parts are waist and hip girth for girdle, and underbust, bust, and hip girth for bodysuit. 4. For bra size, underbust girth was applied together with bra-cup size without 'cm' unit. For bra-cup size, difference between underbust and bust was represented as English alphabet. In other words, AAA means that difference between under bust and bust is 5cm. AA, A, B, C and D means that the difference are 7.5cm, 10cm, 12.5cm, 15cm and 17.5cm. 5. For girdle size, waist girth was applied together with hip girth without 'cm' unit. And for bodysuit size, underbust girth was applied together with cup size like bra size, and English alphabet represented hip girth range.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.209-221
• /
• 2013

This study has attempted to investigate the effect of cubism on fashion and figure out how its formative characteristics have been expressed in contemporary fashion in the 21st century, focusing on the period since 2010. The propose of the study is to broaden research scope in fashion design through analysis and inspection on formative aspects among the cases which have proposed brand - new fashion designs by adapting cubism in fashion. To find out the characteristics of cubism in painting and formative characteristics of contemporary fashion in which the characteristics of cubism are reflected, a literature review has been conducted by referring to domestic and foreign books, previous papers, academic journals and Internet resources on cubism. For an empirical study, in addition, photos of cubism-applied modern fashion have been collected and analyzed through http://www. samsungdesign.net. The following results have been obtained: First, the formative characteristics of cubism were obtained in following categories; character of figure, simultaneity, reiteration and facticity. Second, according to analysis on cases after applying the formative characteristics on contemporary fashion design, the character of figure by the geometric shape of cubism was observed in fashion as well. After dismantling and reconfiguring garments, simultaneity has been expressed in an exaggerated and distorted manner through regular and repetitive overlapping or overlapping of irregular shapes. In terms of facticity, novelty has been delivered with the use of heterogeneous materials, using collage and patchwork techniques. Third, simplicity and functionality in cubism - style garments in the early 20th century have disappeared in contemporary design in the 21st century. Now, a dynamic aspect is only found. Fourth, unlike common paintings, 2D textiles are added to a 3D body in fashion design. In addition, it can be observed from multiple angles depending on the movement so that it can display more diverse shapes. Therefore, it could be the origin of inspiration to many designers.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.46 no.4
• /
• pp.97-105
• /
• 2008

The objective of this study is to investigate the relationship between clothing microclimate and physiological responses, including subjective sensations, when, in a $15^{\circ}C$ environment, a range of temperatures inside clothing is broadly produced from using various combinations of upper and lower garments. Six male subjects participated in the investigation and the results were as follows. For all types of inside garments, the temperature of the clothing was lower than the skin temperature for the whole body in each case. The mean temperature for inside clothing ($\bar{T}_{cl}$) significantly showed the highest correlation with mean weighted skin temperature (r = 0.816) and was less positively correlated with the temperature of the inside clothing at the chest (r = 0.326) (p < .01). Values for both the energy expenditure and the heart rate were less positively correlated with the clothing microclimate (p < .01). The change of body heat content showed a negative correlation with the surface temperature of the innermost clothing (r = -0.519) and there was a difference between the innermost surface temperature and the outermost surface temperature of the clothing at the chest (r = -0.577). As td increased, the increase of body heat content declined (p < .01). There was a negative correlation between body fat and some of the temperatures inside the clothing (p < .01) and body fat had no significant correlation with the humidity inside the clothing. Subjective sensations were more highly correlated with $\bar{T}_{cl}$ than with the temperature of the inside clothing at the chest and had not significantly correlation with the humidity of the inside clothing. In conclusion, through these results, it can be seen that the temperature inside the clothing was related to various physiological responses and subjective sensations, and that the mean temperature of the inside clothing ($\bar{T}_{cl}$) showed a higher relationship with the temperature of the inside clothing at the abdomen than that at the chest.

• International Commerce and Information Review
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.95-116
• /
• 2009

Korea-Us FTA negotiation started in February 2006 with a view to overcoming those uncertainties in the global market and was finally concluded in April, 2007. The Agreement was officially signed between ministers two month later and it is expected to be ratified this year even though the process is most likely to be painful in both countries by the political resistances. For the new President of the United States, effective leadership will depends largely on how to encourage domestic industries such as Automobile industry and Iron and Steel industry from the financial crisis. Many trading partners of US worry about US foreign trade policy changes to protectionism that might be unequal to bear. Korea textile industry is one of the major industry in Korea as it occupies 15% of total number of manufacturers, 11% of total employment and 5% of national GDP. Korea-US FTA will provide a breakthrough for bouncing back by exploring new market. US agreed to remove all tariff and non-tariff barriers to 87% of textile items under trading. This study shows that Korean textile industry has been losing it's competitiveness as textile quota system abolished in the year 2005 and has been traced by pursuers such as China, India and Vietnam. In case of woven fabric which was a representing export item of Korea lost price competitiveness against China after 2005. This study seeks the strategy of Korea textile industry in the US market by utilizing the capacity of KOTRA offices in US. All possible statistical data obtained in the US were used for analysing the competitiveness. Fabrics and Garments are analysed independently with a view to finding out real trends of textile market in US. This study also suggest Korea's textile industry strategic ideas obtained from the potential buyers to show the way to penetrate into US market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.38
• /
• pp.289-304
• /
• 1998

In Korean clothing industry, most of the manufactures produce garments by subcon-tractors partially or entirely. It is very often that the design part is remote from production part and there is miscommunication between these two parts resulting dissatisfaction to both. Therefore it is very important to communicate the manufacturing information clearly and quickly to produce garments exactly the design part intended. Also to automate the clothing out how to produce and use the information objectively and efficiently. As a first step of moving to automation, the purpose of the research is to find out how manufacturing information and data are communicated in clothing manufacturing at present. In order to follow the information flow of a cer-tain manufacturer, the case study method was used. The case study samples were 12 clothing firms of 13 brands. The results and suggestions are as follows :- 1. A manufacturing information is communicated through paper documents such as“Production Order”, sample and patterns. At present, a production order sheet is the most efficient communication media, which comprises most of the information being communicated. 2. A manufacturing information comprises control information on the product, design in-formation, pattern information, cutting information, material information, sewing information, production schedule information, quality control information, costing information and information about the subcontractors. 3. A manufacturing is not quite objective except pattern information and cutting information which is presented by CAD systems. The communication of design information and sewing information should be somehow more objective. 4. There is not much information from a subcontractor. Considering that a subcontractor is the other partener of the communication, more information from the subcontractor is required for both benefit. 5. A designer produce most of the manufacturing information, but the information is communicated through a production manager to the subcontractor. The difference between the information maker and information communicator can cause any miscommunication. In future automated manufacturing, it will be possible for the designer to communicate to the manufacturer directly from the early stage of designing.