• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.681-691
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• 2008

Taking into consideration both the inconveniences reported with current working uniform for the aircraft mechanics and the subjects' requirements mentioned in preceded survey, the researchers designed an ergonomic sample garments with improved motional flexibility and comfort. To improve motional flexibility, extra folds were added to the back of the garments to allow for ease of motion of limbs, so that the material would not be drawn up by the motion of the arms. Darts were added to the elbow, hip, the knee. Furthermore, by increasing the length of the waist centerline, the hip region would not be drawn up. For improved comfort, $CoolMax^{(R)}$ was used as lining material for the armpit and back region to discharge swear promptly. Subjects and panels were asked to evaluate the sample garment that followed an ergonomic design and pattern. According to the results, the sample garment was evaluated more highly than the existing working uniform in appearance and motional flexibility. The field tests by three aircraft mechanics working in the Office of Forestry were also demonstrated that the sample garment was advanced in terms of motional flexibility and comfort.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1019-1030
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• 2011

The aim of this study was to develop a pattern of flight attendant uniform shirts to provide better comfort for their work postures. Flight attendants' work postures were evaluated to determine the problems of clothing and mobility during their work. The pattern of the flight attendants' uniform shirt was altered by applying dynamic wearing ease(DWE). DWE was calculated from four standardized dynamic postures and a static posture. An experimental garment was made with the altered postures. The researcher redesigned the pattern of the uniform shirts, which minimizes physical limitations in movements. The fit and mobility of the shirts were evaluated. Results of this study are as follows. First, the five representative work postures were selected by "clothing stress" and "repetitiveness." These postures included raised arms, twisting midriff and shoulder postures. Five representative postures were selected by using the ergonomic posture assessment device index(OWAS). Second, the experimental garment was developed by applying DWE across the back and at armhole depth, back length, and side length. Third, the fit and mobility of the experimental garments and the original uniform shirts were compared at the flight working environment set and 5 dynamic body postures of raising arms. The experimental garments made with an altered pattern provided better fit and mobility than the original sample shirts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.425-431
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles ($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and $180^{\circ}$ knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.377-391
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to research grading work according to the targets of women's wear manufacturers in Korea. For the questionnaire, 91 women's wear brands, which were in higher ranking of sales, were selected, and the age groups were separated into 3: 20's, 30's, and 40's & 50's, according to their customers. The graders of each brand were questioned about 20 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1 The brands for older women manufactured more sizes and cared more about somatotypes fur grading than other brands did. 2. For upper garments on the basis of bust girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 7 for 30's, and 7 for 40's & 50's. 3. For lower garments on the basis of hip girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 6 for 30's, and 5 for 40's & 50's. 4. As a model size of grading, many brands used the smallest size, but the brands for 40's & 50's also used the second size. 5. The parts needed to be corrected after grading were sleeve ease, armhole, shoulder line, neckline, crotch curve, etc. The grading with CAD system had more correction after grading than hand grading.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.217-227
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• 1998

Male underclothing during this period preserved in the shirt its former qualities though somewhat diminished. The habit of leaving much of the waist coat unbuttoned to display the fine quality of the shirt was more than evidence of social ranks : it appears to have had its attractions to the other sex. But in other respects man's underclothing was sinking into obscurity. This was due, in a great measure, to the closer fit of his suit, designed to exhibit the shape of his legs in breeches and stockings, leaving little opportunity for the display of garments beneath. With the latter part of the eighteenth century man's underclothing ceased to serve for sex attraction, a function on it has never regained, while continuing -in the shirt front and cuffs- to indicate class distinction, until, in modern times, that too has disappeared. The term 'smart' was coming into vogue to indicated the well-dressed man, and for at least a century after, the word implied tightfitting garments which, of necessity, reduced underclothing to a very subordinate function, so that only the shirt front survived for display purpose. Artificial calves was introduced by the Macaronis its purpose was to accenturate the captirating shapelines of the calf of the leg appearing below the tight breeches of the period.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.526-539
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• 2005

Recently in the apparel industry, early adolescent girls are emerging as a new consumer group. In response to this, companies are developing clothes, cosmetics, underwear, etc. This study proposed a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls and presented reference measurements for body parts necessary in designing clothes. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, frequency analysis. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 7 sizes (140A-67, 145A-65, 145A-69, 150A-69, 150A-73, 155A-73, 155A-76): for Type X - 7 sizes (150x-72, 155x-72, 155x-77, 160x-77, 160x-80, 165x-77, 165x-80); and for Type H - 8 sizes (145H-74, 145H-82, 150H-78, 150H-82, 155H-82, 155H-86, 160H-86, 160H-88). Reference measurements suggested for upper garments were 9 items. The outcome of this study may be used as a basic material for adolescent apparel manufacturers to set their apparel sizing system and to supply their consumers, namely, adolescent girls with products fitting their somatotype.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권11호
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• pp.1186-1196
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• 2012

This study investigated the garments of middle-aged women undergoing menopause and their satisfaction with them. Data were collected through a survey of 288 middle-aged women and analyzed using SPSS 17.0. As a result (in terms of degree of symptoms) backache, arthralgia, muscular pain and heat sensation were indicated as significantly more outstanding in the menopause group rather than the menopausal transition group. As a countermeasure to physiological symptoms, a change of temperature (warming or cooling) was applied for backache and arthralgia as well as taking medicine for stomachaches and muscular pain. Body parts suffering from heat sensations were the face, back neck, chest center, waist and hip. Body parts suffering from arthralgia and muscular pain were the shoulder and hip joints. The most significant purchasing factor for menopausal women was the fit of outerwear and antibiosis in underwear; however, women not undergoing menopause selected comfortableness when moving as the most important factor. In terms of body shaping and thermoregulation function, the satisfaction degree in underwear was significantly different between the two groups. Menopausal women wanted functional underwear that provided functions such as thermoregulation, absorption of secretions, and antibiosis.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권8호
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• pp.1095-1106
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• 2013

This study evaluated the wear comfort properties of water-vapor-permeable (WVP) garments using a movable sweating thermal manikin. Manikin tests were performed in a climatic chamber (temperature T=20, $35{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ and relative humidity $H=50{\pm}10%$) using seven sportswear outfits (a long sleeve shirts and a long pants) made with seven different WVP fabrics. Physiological responses of wear trials could be correlated with measurement parameters of the thermal manikin experiment; subsequently, a regression model that represented a final comfort sensation could be obtained. The regression model developed in this work is based on thermal manikin measurements; consequently, it provides an independent comfort sensation level in a relatively short time at a low cost while maintaining the reproducibility of results. It translates into more actual choices for sportswear manufacturers and sportswear consumers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권3호
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• pp.474-485
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• 2018

Smart sensors and connected devices have changed the concept of garments along with IT technology convergent garments that transform the performance of basic functions. Various types of products have been researched and developed due to the increased interest in smart clothing; in addition, studies based on physical and mechanical properties have also been actively studied to improve accuracy and reliability. This study represents a basic study for the development of smart textiles based on motion recognition for the surfing practice of beginners interested in IT convergence type. A physical durability evaluation of conductive yarn according to sewing method was later carried out. This study is a conditional specimen sewn with cotton lower thread and 100mm pattern length based on the results of previous studies. The durability of the conductive yarn according to the sewing method was evaluated according to the sewing method. Durability was evaluated by two kinds of repeated strain and abrasion tests. The specimen with applied cotton in a lower thread zigzag pattern 2mm stitch size 100mm stitch length was shown to have the most suitable durability for smart textile.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제11권
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• pp.17-30
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• 2010

국립중앙박물관이 소장하고 있는 청연군주 출토복식(신수751 의류 일괄)중 전시 대상 26점의 보존처리 과정과 보관방법을 소개하고자 한다. 처리 전 유물의 재질과 손상정도를 파악하고 표면세척, 습식세척을 병행하였으며, 유물의 안정성을 고려하여 손으로 잡아주면서 건조시키고 보수하였다. 보관은 복식의 손상을 줄이기 위해 접힘 부분을 최소화하여 크게 접고 완충제를 사이에 넣고 중성상자에 넣어 보관하였다.