• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.112-121
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• 2007

Gamtu was a name recorded in Korean in respect of 'Mo(帽), Moja(帽子), Somoja(小帽子), Jeongmoja(頂帽子), Jeonmo(氈帽), Yangmomo(羊毛帽), Tangjeon(宕巾)' from the beginning to the end of Joseon dynasty which includes various shapes and uses according to wordbook. Also, Gamtu has various phonetic transcriptions, however Manchu pronunciation of 'Moja(帽子)' is indicated as 'Kamtoo' in $\ulcorner$Dongmunyuhae(同文類解)$\lrcorner$ so the origin of the word Gamtu should be discussed. Accordingly, I want to clearly define the concept of Gamtu in this research by studying the history and shape of Gamtu, and Chinese entries annotated in Korean as Gamtu. Even though we can assume that the etymology of Gamtu is Manchu language as Manchu pronunciation of 'Moja(帽子)' is indicated as 'Kamtu' in $\ulcorner$Dongmunyuhae(同文類解)$\lrcorner$, I think the Korean pronunciation of Gamtu already existed because there already was a Chinese transcription of 'Gamtu' in the Goryeosa(高麗史). So, we can conjecture that Gamtu could be originated from Yeojin language which is the same lineage of Manchu. As a conclusion, Somoja(小帽子), Jeongmoja(頂帽子), Moja(帽子), Jeonmo(氈帽), Yangmomo(羊毛帽), Tangjeon(宕巾) had a common feature that they were produced to fit head without visor, and were annotated as Gamtu per woolen cloth was used as Jeonmo(氈帽), Yangmomo(羊毛帽), and Gamtu was just a Korean transcription that includes these names.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.20-35
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate war helmets that were worn by high navy officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598). War helmets worn during the War are classified into three types depending on whether they have a visor or 'cheom' and tongues or 'drim'. The war helmets of circumferential type has neither cheom nor drim. Those of cheom type has cheom, but not drim. And those of drim type has both drim and cheom or jeonbi. The war helmets of cheom type consist of a gamtu which is made of steel and looks like a reversed bowl and cheom that surrounds the entire circumference of gamtu. The war helmets of drim type are reclassified into two types in accordance with the shape of the gamtu and whether they have ganju. Of the two types, one type looks like a reversed bowl and has decorations on the top without ganju. The other type looks like a bottle neck and has ganju on the top, decorations above ganju. War helmets were in transition during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea. Both the war helmets of cheom and drim types were worn during the War. At that time, the officers also wore war helmets having no ganju and looking like a reversed bowl and those having ganju and looking like a bottle neck. During the period, most war helmets were made of steel, but in the 18th and 19th centuries, most of them were made of leather.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.43
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• pp.255-284
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• 2016

This article aims at a discourse analysis on the selected 1970s Myungrang Manwhas, in the cases of Ggubungi, Doggaebi Gamtu, Yochul Balmyungwang. For the analysis, the history, pre-censorship, and distribution structure of Myungrang Manwha are referenced, as well as the considerable changes and developments on the definition of 'myungrang' since the 1920s. In employing Foucauldian discourse analysis to the texts, the selected Myungrang Manwhas are analyzed as discursive formation, which emerged within the social relations of the era; the characters' dialogues are analyzed as statement. The analysis examines the discourses that the texts disseminated, and the social context of the utterance. It is demonstrated that the Myungrang Manwhas are forms of representation, which implies 'the contested acquisition on capital and power', 'the emphasis on nationalist aspects', and 'the interpellation and discipline of subject active' of the time. Moreover, it is revealed that the forms of control, such as pre-censorship, were the articulation of the will to power, which drove the discoursive formation to function as an apparatus that meticulously constituted the ruling ideology. In conclusion, the Myungrang Manwhas are rather texts that encompasses political and social context of the era than a mere comic relief.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.305-321
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• 1998

The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.