• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.161-172
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• 2015

In this study, characteristics of modern fur fashion were reviewed and aesthetic characteristics shown in fur fashion were analyzed. The results of this study are as follow. Aesthetic characteristics shown in fur fashion between 1980s and 2000s are conspicuousness, sensuality, elegance, activity, humor and abnormality. Conspicuousness was displayed in oversized fur coat in vivid leopard pattern, mink coat trimmed with rich fox fur or leopard patterned fur jacket in hot pink. Sensuality was displayed in white and gray soft mink coat worn over mini dress, soft mink jacket which is short enough to expose legs or soft fox best accentuating chest and arms. Elegance was displayed in soft fox coat in silver, luxurious mink coat with slim silhouette that flows with body line or silver bolero made of mink and silk with slim silhouette. Activity was presented in mink pullover with loose silhouette or rabbit jacket that emphasized functionality by having zippers or hem made of rubber. Humor was presented in unique and humorous patterned fur jacket or exaggerated and unique form of fox bolero. Abnormality was presented in mink jacket made of combining alien material with deformed proportion and form or outer that emphasized vague form by using long and big fox fur.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.49-64
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• 2001

Fur is conceived as a material signifier, not only with its commodity value as luxury goods but also as its symbolic value as objects invested by one's libidinal desire. In this study, complex meanings of fur as multi-layered signs of political and sexual power focusing on fetishism shall be explored, especially on the spectacle fetishism acted by mass media during the anti-fur movement in the 1980s. In conjuction herewith, a highlight shall also be made to the symbolic value in fashion design since 1990s. In this study, first, as a theoretical investigation, fetishism, that has been traditionally considered only as sexual fetishism in fashion discourse will be explored in socio-economic level. Second, in historical context, how the meanings and values of fur have become realized in various cultural spaces, such as literature, art, film and finally, fashion will be viewed. In fashion, fur is a product of desire and power influenced by commodity fetishism as well as sexual fetishism. During the anti-fur movement, mass media has developed the concept of spectacle fetishism. Fur is a sign of animal-victim, and fur-clad women is viewed with images full of imperialsm, sexism and racism, thus act as derisive spectacles of consumerism. Since 1990s as a reflection on anti-fur movement, fetishistic characteristics, which challenge traditional operation method, are expressed by disguise, parody, and returning to the nature. First, fur as disguise is intended to hide sexually perverse, decadent characteristics and expensiveness of fur by texturing or patterning techniques. Second, fur as parody uses fake fur or dyed fur in order to satirize erotically and ethnographically fetishized meanings of fur. Third, aboriginal design of fur is adapted to use symbolic values outside the West, which can potentially mobilize antagonistic oppositions out of their fetishistic regimes. In conclusion, fur as sign of female sexuality and its libidinal profits of exchange, has significant symbolic values expressed in fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.144-158
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• 2017

Fur garment has long been the conventional symbol for luxury, or conspicuous consumption. However, as fashion items began to diversify as part of overall fashion trend, fur items are now more about individual taste and style than just lavishness. Synthetic fur is especially emerging as a new promising fashion material, with a touch almost like natural fur at an affordable price. Along with the emergence of 'Vegan Fashion' trend, synthetic fur is establishing itself as a popular fashion textile. This study is an attempt to investigate subjective evaluation and physical properties of natural and synthetic furs, whose results will further serve as basic data in developing synthetic fur materials. Sensory and emotional evaluations are carried out on natural and artificial furs. For analysis, factors such as weight, thickness, air permeability, gloss and compressibility were surveyed to observe how they influence the physical properties. According to the subjective evaluation, natural and artificial fur samples do not differ in conspicuous ways in appearance. Experiments on physical properties, specifically warm/cool touch experiment, show that natural fur has a slightly higher warm sensation than artificial fur. Luster analysis by using a microscope revealed that there are subtle qualitative differences between natural and artificial fur. During the subjective evaluation, subjects found it hard to state distinct quantitative differences in luster. A survey as a means of assessing qualitative differences in gloss seems to be necessary to complement the evaluation. Results from this study will potentially serve as resources for diversification of fashion product designs using synthetic fur.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.45-60
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• 1994

Since 1988 the fur fashion industry in Korea has been difficult in exporting and competition with too many brands after opening the dom-estic fur market. However comparing with the interest of manufactures and consumers there are few of related references and books. So the purpose of this study is to put in order and summurize the manufacture in fur cloth-ing the informations of domestic and oversea fur markets and the other professional references. After all it is to help succeed in domestic and international fur markets and give the new ideas of designing and merchandising to the fur fashion industry. The results were as follows: 1. Contact with fur specialty stores in the international fashion cities and tourist cities directly. 2. Establish oversea factories in the low labor countries. 3. Exploit and invest in Russia china and the East European countries for suppliment of law materials and fur market. 4. Need the market research and promotion for encroachment in Japanese fur market. 5. Create the original brands with inter-national fashion sense. 6. Develop the manufacture line for diverse models in small lots matching with the modern life styles. 7. Need the fashion show exhibition pro-motion with reasonable prices and creative new designing with various color trimming texturizing and combination with the other materials. 8 Subdivide and distinguish labels into different types for avoiding with too much com-petition and comvenience of consumers. 9. Make an effort to weaken the black mar-ket the 30% of the domestic fur market.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.135-149
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• 2014

Fur clothing as fashion items is expanding into casual & ladies's wear market as well as fur market. The interest of fur fashion is rising. So this study compares and analyzes the merchandising process of textile clothing also it of fur clothing by merchandising steps. Fur clothing has so many change factors at time of purchase by scarcity of raw material, price fluctuation, exchange rate and others. Therefore it is primarily about securing of raw material. As soon as plan of product is finished, the purchase of fur raw material has to be started while progress of design products for commercializing the fur clothing. The design of fur clothing is consist of material design, color design and shape design. And It makes a new trend & market as we are developing new & various treatments. The some of imported materials are transferred to the factory for being treated first dressing, fabric treatments and dyeing processing according to the design. The first treated materials are transferred to the sewing factory again for secondary treatments and finally inspected and shipped. During secondary treatments the fur has gone through various manufacturing process for using like fabric materials and it takes long time because almost work is running manually. Unlike fabric clothing, fur clothing's manufacturing method is complicated and various from material process to shape process as per feature. Therefore the merchandising with fur cannot make mass production also needs detail craftsmanship depending by expert's skills. On this wise the fur clothing takes long time to the completion thus it has been risky and costly.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.55-70
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• 2017

This study researched transition process of fur costume from ancient times to 20th century, extracted esthetic characteristics, and then understood how the esthetic characteristics appear in the recent fur collection. The result is as follows. First, magical meaning was revealed on leopard fur that ancient chief priests wore on top of shenti to symbolize immorality and fur tunics to which christian symbol was added in Byzantine. During middle age and the Renaissance, extravagance appeared on sable and amin jackets that the noble decorated to show off their high status. During the rococo age and mid-20th century, sensuality and elegance appeared on the fur dresses that the female body was emphasized. Second, in recent collection, extravagance appeared on over-sized and voluminous fox-coat, sexsuality and elegance were revealed through mink-dresses and jackets with soft touch and gloss that curved-silhouette was emphasized. In addition, practicality and functionality were shown through short length and light, soft material, and activeness was in the mink jacket to which functional elements such as zippers and rubber were added. To pursue uniqueness and fun, fox jackets were made with over-sized vivid green color. Besides, abnormality and vulgarness appeared through the fashion with abnormal and distracted images with ambiguous forms and new processing methods applied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.563-573
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• 2009

This study analyzed the trends and aesthetic characteristics of fur design found in the contemporary fashion to examine the status of fur material in the contemporary fashion design, and through an analysis of the meaning it attempted to come up with a new viewpoint and form on material for the future fashion design. A literature review was used to explore the kinds and properties of furs. In addition, an empirical analysis of works that have appeared in fashion collections since the year 2000 was conducted with local and foreign fashion magazines such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode and other publications related to fashion collections. In the contemporary fashion, the trends of fur design are represented by use of various items, material combinations, application to decorative purposes(like trimmings, details, or accessories), and a wide range of colors and textures available by advanced dyeing and finishing techniques. The aesthetic values intrinsic to fur design are that the expression of conspicuous luxury covers even the qualitative aspect of luxury and adds fashionable images to casual items, contributing to the popularization of fur fashion, by using a variety of artificial furs; the expression of sensual feminine beauty allows the animal and primitive feel characteristic of furs to convert a feminine body into a sensual image of more than a simple biological impulse; and the expression of hybridity presents a new viewpoint through distortions, exaggerations, deviations from the existing constituent forms, or futuristic sensibilities in all elements of fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.597-614
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• 2024

This study examines how idealism and relativism, which are the two dimensions of personal moral philosophy, and the perceived moral intensity affect the purchase behavior of consumers regarding fashion items made of animal skin and fur. Data were collected through an online survey, and data from 372 Korean female consumers were statistically analyzed, excluding questionnaires with non-response, insincere responses, and outliers. The data analysis using structural equation models showed a significant effect of idealism but a non-significant effect of relativism on perceived moral intensity concerning the purchase of real leather and fur fashion items. In a structural equation model for each fashion item, perceived moral intensity had a negative effect on purchase behavior. The indirect effect of idealism on purchase behavior through the perceived moral intensity was confirmed to be statistifically significant for each fashion item. However, neither idealism nor relativism had a direct effect on the purchase behavior of both fashion items. The research results were discussed from an academic perspective and practical implications were presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.245-260
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• 1998

Our country's fur clothing industry has rapidly grown for a short time since it started with simple needlework of fur pieces, and now it is still developing as export industry that some enterprises besides general business firm export more than ten million dollars a year. However, it is true that fur clothing industry is still in unsatisfactory level in its size and system, compared with manufacturing or leather industry. Of course, we import crude material and processed fur on an entire base, and we have few wild fur on an entire base, and we have few wild fur animals because of our natural condition and it is hard to breed them. On the other hand, the world's fur industry shows that the demand of fur clothes is increasing as fur animal breeding is improved and developed and supply has become rather abundant with the help of fur clothing fashion since late 19th century : Also, there is a trend that some developed countries depend on importing rather than self-prodoction because of the character-istic of labor-concetntraled fur industry. Accordingly, considering this situation, we can expect fur clothing industry as promising export industry by analyzing the present situation of our country's fur clothing industry and suggesting its problems and solutions, and here are developing plans for growing fur clothing industry as promising export industry. First, smoothing delivery of crude material. Second, making high quality products and diversifying goods. Third, establishing effective competition system in fur clothing industry. Fourth, raising skilled man power. Lastly, there should be coopetation among the related fields in the aspect of policy including the support from the government.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.68-84
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• 2020

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest a Practical Plan for ethical consumption by reviewing the category of Vegan Fashion and investigating its Social Value of vegan fashion. This will be achieved through investigating the papers and official home pages of 13 selected Vegan Fashion brands. It was found that in terms of use of materials such as leather, fur and organic fibers the brands can be divided into three sections: fur-free, cruelty-free and perfect vegan. A Practical Plan is suggested based on the aspects of production, consumption, distribution and education. Firstly, the provider should be required to understand vegan materials deeply, it is also desirable for them to get vegan certifications. Secondly, the seller should also understand about vegan materials, and be able to explain this to consumers. The education from the seller is vital and the meaning of logos and associated contents used by the label should be clearly explained to consumers. Thirdly, the association of consumers, and fashion brands should cooperate to enhance the level of general understanding in society further, this should influence new laws, that address ethical issues regarding the use of fur in fashion. Environmental problem of the future might be reduced if the stakeholders in Vegan Fashion are cooperatively and actively trying to educate the general population and make Vegan Fashion popular and ethical consumption popular.