• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.656-664
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• 2019

This study was to develop the patterns based on the study of commercial Cheollik dress pattern analysis that verify the effects of pattern improvement by performing wearing evaluations. The commercial Cheollik dress pattern analysis was divided into A type composed of a traditional hanbok flat sleeve type and B type composed of western three-dimensional sleeves type. The prototype pattern of A type and prototype pattern of B type were fabricated after modifying and supplementing the pattern on the basis of precedent research. Appearance evaluations and mobility evaluations were also conducted. In the evaluations of the appearance, the prototype pattern in both A type and B type rated better than the control pattern in all items, so it can be judged to be a pattern that creates a better appearance in terms of allowance and design ratio. In the evaluations of the mobility, the prototype pattern was more convenient and a functional pattern with better scores in both A type and B type. If the Cheollik dress prototype patterns developed in this study are distributed, the Cheollik dress will be easy and comfortable to wear as a casual wear, which will help to make dailyization and popularization of Hanbok.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.108-125
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the technical pattern and product characteristics of outdoor sportswear marketed in Northern Europe and North America. Based on the results of this study, we wanted to provide practical data on the characteristics of products with high functionality and fashionability for developing outdoor sportswear. Therefore, in this study, technical pattern, textiles, details, sewing, compatibility with wearable devices, and certification of 33 marketed outdoor sportswear were analyzed. After analyzing various technical patterns, the bent arm pattern using two-piece panel and a raised arm pattern connecting the side seam with the inner seam of the sleeve appeared on the top. Additionally, the patterns of bent legs with darts in the knee, cutting the posterior, and inserting the gusset in the crotch were mainly seen in the bottoms. By analyzing product characteristics, ergonomic pattern design for easy activity and functional materials was used for climate adaptation in extreme outdoor wear. On the other hand, for outdoor wear meant for trekking or hiking, details, such as portability and easy storage, were considered. Eco-friendly materials were used while ensuring light weight and comfort. Furthermore, for convenience of life, safety, and health, wearable devices were integrated into the outdoor sportswear. Eco-friendly green certification of outdoor products was obtained for the labor environment and production process, and relevant information was provided to consumers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.97-109
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• 2014

This study developed a functional dress shirt for adult males that reflected the body surface variation of a human body section by motion. This study conducted a 3D body scan for 8 subjects in their 40's based on the Size Korea 2010 database. Data recorded the proper posture change value and body surface change value to develop functional dress shirts for adult males. We scanned the subjects with a 3D body scanner for five primarily male wearing dress shirts and operating postures, right standing, arms raised to $90^{\circ}$ horizontal forward position, arms raised $90^{\circ}$ to the horizontal position side, lift up the arm $180^{\circ}$, and arm forward $90^{\circ}$ in a bent posture. We analyzed the 3D scan data from those motions to examine change of length using 3D software Rapidform XOS. The results indicated that the body surface sections with contraction were the front and rear shoulder area, armpit and central length as well the width of arms at more than 10%. The increased body section included the body and armpit back length; in addition, the rear arm vibration girth and under arm girth were more than 10%. In order to reflect the size variation of for each motion, the ease amount of the front and rear shoulder length and width needs to be reduced 20% because it affects the shoulder length during the right standing. The results suggest that the ease amount of the shoulder length should be minimal. The ease amount of the back size needs to be 0.5-2cm bigger and set 0.5-1.5cm longer than the dress shirt length side drooping to compensate for the side length shortage of each motion. The sleeve length needs to be 0-0.5cm shorter, and ease amount of the girth of sleeve bottom needs to be reduced 0-0.7cm due to the size variation of arms. However, the girth of the rear arms is suggested to be 0-0.6cm longer in the ease amount to the rear arm girth as the extension is more than 10% over the width and length of each motion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.177-192
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to present de-sign development and constructive method on man's Hanbok which can be put on daily-life clothing through supplementing the incon-venience of HanBok and to make men put on daily-life-HanBok through making the HanBok ready-made clothing which has lower-price. The concrete test and its process on devel-oped design are below. (1) In present there are five uncomfortable point waist closing baji's slitting and daenim (2) Developed the first design concentrating on uncomfortable parts with Korean costume-pattern (3) to supplement sleeve armhole and waist closing which are pointed out as the incon-venience at first design development did the second design development. The results through research and process are below. (1) In the functional test of testing clothing a testee is satisfied with jegory's closing at 87. 5% with pocket at 100% and with baji's front closing and daenim (2) The opinion of an observer on daily-life Hanbok is an affirmative response as following turns: traditional aspect practical use and aesthetic aspect. (3) Analyzing the relations between the characters of daily-life hanbok and the popu-lation density variables results are the popu-lation density variable results are followed below. Man has highe points than woman on asthetic and economical aspect. In preferences as educational levels more-educated person has an affirmative response on keeping traditions. In jobs students and white-collar people have affirmative responses on traditions. (4) What one wants to wear the most is the fourth Hanbok(mixing western and Korean costume style with Korean costume fabrics) and daily-life Hanbok with western costume fabrics has 51.8% preferences of responsers. With those results man's daily-life HanBok made through the first and the second design development lessens the inconvenience of Hanbok with some degrees. Also if daily-life Hanbok design continue to be developed through using Korean costume fabrics and western costume fabrics people can easily by functional and practical daily-life Hanbok because it can be massproduced.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.368-377
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• 2020

This study provided basic data to develop functional and fitness cycling wear for cyclists. We analyzed the domestic and overseas cycling wear brand patterns for tops and tights as well as compared pads attached to tights. The results were as follows. The tops of the cycling wear were designed with cutting lines in the lateral or yoke in the back to reflect cycling posture. It is necessary to study if there is a difference in the air resistance or fitness of the athlete. The sleeve hem band affected by arm movement during cycling, proper sewing and band pressure are also important. The tights have a brand that does not insert a band in front of the waist in consideration of the cyclist's breathing. It should take into account methods of constructing a proper garment pressure that does not interfere with cycling. Analyzing the cycling pad indicated that the three-dimensional shape and size of the pad show many differences for each brand, indicating a difference in cycling movement suitability. In addition, many of the cutting lines should account for the productive aspects because of the high consumption of the fabric in order to design a pattern considering the cycling posture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1049-1059
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• 2011

This study investigates the current state of companies that manufacture and sell outdoor wear. A survey was conducted to identify what problems they had and what aspects they needed to supplement through a comparison and analysis of their block patterns. Companies that manufactured outdoor wear and those that sold them were separately surveyed to understand their current state. The manufactures included 4 companies and 14 sellers. The survey used interviews to cover the areas of target consumers, development patterns, production lines, body size, nominal size, production size, and functional materials for each item, and aspects that need improvement. The survey period was from September $3^{rd}$ to $10^{th}$ 2008. There were three block patterns for jackets, T-shirts, and pants. The investigator collected the patterns used by three outdoor clothing manu-facturers for comparison and assessment. As a result, the mean age of the target consumers set by the outdoor clothing manufacturers and sellers was 25.3-50.7 and 29.2-42.5, respectively, which shows that the outdoor clothing had a wider distribution of target consumers than the sellers. It is imperative for them to segment and differentiate the target consumers and concepts. The basic body measurements the companies used to draw the upper and lower garment patterns were the bust circumference for the upper garment patterns and the waist circumference for the lower garment patterns. The basic nominal size was 95 for the upper garment and 70 for the lower garment. Also analyzed were the block patterns according to the items to understand the pattern characteristics of each of the companies. There were a total of 35, 36, and 30 items for the jackets, T-shirts, and pants, respectively, to measure size. The items were then compared with one another in mean and standard deviation. The analysis indicate that the block patterns were not fit for women in their twenties or thirties to wear and required revisions in the length of the upper garment, the height of sleeve cap, bust circumference, hip length, and pant length.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.34-42
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to change practical korean costume in 20C. In the early 20C, inflow of western civilization started to change korean costume. Since then gradually changes to be simple in Korean costume. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Traditional jacket (jeo-go-li) gradually began to be long to waist line. This jacket length was to be long and it sleeve is to be short in early 2OC. Traditional skirt (Chi-rna) length was short to the calf of the leg. Traditional wide skirt was gradually to be narrow and pleats shape look as if it in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. The width of pleats was about 3~5 cm, be one-sided, look as if it western style in today. But pleats skirt already existed on a women's of the upper classes in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. Women's long Coat (do-lu-ma-gi) length was short to under hip line in late 20c. In this way, the practical idea, the factor of design was because of western idea in civilization ages, early 20C. Since then gradually reformed to be simple in Korean costume. Assuming that the trend of simplification in Korean costume is related to the idea of practical. Therefore Korean costume of living or a reformed Korean costume to be design of practical, functional, convenient, economically. And it must have to traditional idea, it is only beauty of shape, pattern, line, fabric in Korean costume.