• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.66-80
• /
• 2013

Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the $21^{st}$ century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.23 no.5
• /
• pp.624-633
• /
• 2021

This study was intended to compare the comfort of wearing each type of commercially available bralette. The trial wearing experiment was conducted on five women in their 20s who wear an average Korean bra size of 70A. The experimental bralettes were of four types: a bralette with both hooks and pads and a bralette without both, a bralette with hooks but no pads, and a bralette with pads but no hooks. The wearing test results are as follows. First, in terms of functional satisfaction, the padded bralette provided the greatest satisfaction in supporting the chest from the bottom up and bringing it to the center, and the bralette without the pad provided the least satisfaction. In addition, the level of convenience of attaching/detaching was about twice as high in the bralette with hooks than those without hooks. Chest compression was found to be greater in bralettes without hooks than in those with hooks. In terms of the pressure on the shoulder strap and on the lower chest band, it was found that bralettes with hooks had a greater sense of pressure than those without. In the appearance characteristics test, the unpadded bralettes scored higher than the padded one in the matter of feeling embarrassed, because in unpadded bralettes, the nipples were exposed underneath the clothes . This study is meaningful in classifying the design of the bralette and evaluating the fit for each design in the absence of prior research on the bralette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.5 s.114
• /
• pp.58-71
• /
• 2007

This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.46
• /
• pp.67-88
• /
• 1999

텍스타일의 발전에 있어서 진보적 기술혁신은 합성섬유의 잠재력을 높이는데 큰 촉매 역할을 해왔는데 그 중 가장 두드러지게 성공적인 분야는 바로 스트레치 직물 분야이다. 스트레치는 그자체의 다양한 종류와 변화무쌍한 특성과 함께 스포츠 웨어, 캐주얼웨어 뿐 아니라 최근에는 정장류 남성복에 이르기 까지 그 사용범위와 미적 표현이 크게 증가되고 다양해졌다. 스트레치의 미는 기능적이고 편안하면서도 직물자체의 유동적인 특성과 함께 인체와 더불어 표출되는시각적 이미지가 현대미에 새로운 개념을 더하고있다는 데에 그 가치가 있다. 본 연구목적은 현대 패션디자인에 표현되어진 스트레치의 미적 개념과 가치가 무엇인가를 발견하는데 있다. 특히 섬유과학기술의 진보로 인한 스트레치 직물의 다양함과 그에대한 디자이너들의 패션철학과 디자인의 다양한 변화를 강조하고 나아가 다음세기를 위한 보다 나은 디자인의 방향을 제시해 보고자한다. 연구결과는 다음과같다. 1, 스트레치의 가장 두드러지는 현대적 미는 편안함과 기능성에 있다. 특히 스트레치 직물 자체가 더욱 가벼워지고 강해지면서 현대생활과 미래생활에서 가장 크게 중시되고 있는 comfortable & functional 의 이상적인 개념을 충적시켜 주고 있다. 2. 스트레치 직물의 유동적특징에서 대표적으로 나타난 스타일은 바디스트인데 이것은 스트레치 자체의 신축성이 기본적으로 인체곡선 위에서 표현되어진 것으로서 거의 비슷한 스타일의 uniformity 현상을 낳게 되었고 또한 인체선의 드러남으로 인해 'healthy'이미지 추구라는 현대미의 새로운 개념을 가져왔다. 2. 더욱 정교해진 스트레치는 결국 transparent look을 낳았고 또한 비치는 직물들을 겹쳐입는 layering 현상을 가져왔는데 이것은 현대적 순수미와 여성미가 시감각적 이미지로 표현되어진 것이라 할수 있다. 4. 스트레치가 되므로서 생기는 긴장은 다른 디자인 요소들에 대해서는 극히 단순한 것을 요구하면서 결국 simplicity를 동반하게 되었다. 5. 스트레치는 디자인 구성 요소들의 보다 작은 개념을 낳았는데 즉 더욱 좁아진 형과 작아진 사이즈 없어지거나 줄어든 다트와 구성선 그리고 그에따라 줄어든 공정과 낮아진 가격이다. 이 개념은 현대미의 minimalism의 한 현상으로 해석되어지며 스트레치 직물은 여기에 가장 부합되는 소재가 되었다. 6. 스트레치의 시각적 이미지는 그자체가 'easy' 'free'느낌과 함께 보편적이면서 미래적이다. 이상으로 볼 때 미래의 패션은 보다 진보적인 섬유과학발전에 힘입어 21세기의 새로운 환경에 잘 적응 할 수 있는 합리적이면서도 미적 가치가 내포된 인간에게 보다 친숙한 디자인으로 전개되리라고 생각되어진다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2009

A lot of research has been made over the recent decade to develop testing packages with antimicrobial properties to improve food safety. In this study, a new method, experimental device and technology for environmental corresponding packages of polypropylene (PP) film has been developed to provide effective temperature buffering during the transport/long-term storage of grains or foodstuffs from the supplier to the market. This quantitatively optimized mixing system enabled to produce PP films with the 700$\sim$1,400d (width;1.5$\sim$3mm, thickness;0.01$\sim$0.5mm). In the whole mixing systems, the finely-granulated inorganic illite and PP virgin chip for master batch (M/B) chip was calculated by digital measurement methods, and then the M/B chip for PP film was adapted through a air jet and PP grinding method. The prepared PP film was characterized with tensile strength and elongation, far infrared radiation (FIR) emissivity, antimicrobial activity and deodorization properties. The results revealed that the two differently grain-sized illite could be show homogeneously dispersed on PP chip surface, and as the increasing of illite content, the FIR emissivity and the anion emission rate of film was increasingly improved. In both of 325 and 1,500 mesh-sized illite contained PP chip, of course the antimicrobial activity was good. But the ultimate deodorization rate for ammonia gas of PP film were found to be approximately the same.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.4
• /
• pp.99-112
• /
• 2008

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.93-100
• /
• 2018

This study comparatively analyzed the changes in the dimensional stability and the mechanical properties of stretch knit fabrics associated with washings conditions in order to determine the most appropriate washing method. Polyester and spandex knit fabrics were washed 25 cycles with nine washing condition profiles that controled detergent, hardness. temperature and RPM. The knit fabrics with repeated washings were evaluated by dimensional stability and measured by the KES-FB system. Polyester and spandex fibers have good chemical resistance. However, the changes in the dimensional stability and the mechanical properties were observed in washed knit fabrics. After repeated washings, the knit fabrics washed in an alkali or neutral detergent had good dimensional stability compared with the knit fabric washed in functional detergent. The washed knit fabrics were extended, stiff, rough, and had a smaller volume. The changes were the result of the rearrange of polyester fibers which twisted around spandex core and chemical interactions involving the detergent and the physical and mechanical forces of washing. Especially, using an alkali detergent resulted in increased stiffness and roughness of the knit fabric. In conclusion, the washing in water with low hardness and a neutral detergent can minimize the changes in dimensional stability and mechanical properties of polyester and spandex knit fabric.

• Physical Therapy Rehabilitation Science
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.7-11
• /
• 2013

Objective: Final goal of nerve advancement therapy is to provide maximum ability to function independently in life to patients. This paper appraises and describes basic concepts of the virtual reality (VR) based exercise program to improve functional movement for neurologically impaired patients. Design: Review article. Methods: Stroke patients from the physical therapy department while wearing comfortable clothing receive therapy and also VR based motion therapy administered by the therapist in charge. After evaluation of stroke patients, therapy includes an exercise program that is suitable for use with stroke patients; stroke patients wear head-mounted display while in front of the computer, where the camera is located; they follow the action on the screen and the computer perceives the operation of the stroke patients according to subject accomplishment. Results: According to obstacle condition of stroke patients using the method, which is various environments after setting, in stroke patients, there is a possibility of presenting suitable therapeutic environments. The display presentation of the method, which is identical, causes difficulty for all stroke patients. According to subject accomplishment; stroke patients result in execution of repetition training and deepening study, which leads to mobility. Conclusions: The VR based rehabilitation training programs is a difference of the existing video training program, is immediate feedback and compensation method. It will provide rehabilitation training services for the family of the patient whose condition could be improved with rehabilitative therapy where it is a continuous circumstance as a matter of the social welfare facility therapy.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.6
• /
• pp.39-56
• /
• 2004

At the outset, surrealism starts from pure art, but surrealism has greatly influenced commercial art and fashion circles, more so than any other genre of art. The critical thinking methods of surrealism and its mode of expression continues to influence fashion theory extensively. Even now, surrealism may be found in the designs presented in fashion circles and is still expected for future lines. Surrealism in modern fashion has been reborn, newly integrated and transformed, based on the features of Surrealism paintings. The characteristics of its forms can be found in a combination of modern material, modern design and new skills and the classical items : bodyform molding context of architecture, experimental and sex-appealing of body. Expression was made by borrowing natural motives and recreating natural fabrics while the existing typical idea about clothes was destructed, with the boundary of patterns changed. Expression was also made by mixing items, uniting future images, and using up-to-date functional techniques. This study is significant that up-to-date technological culture expands cyber-space and increases surrealistic expressions by combined heterogeneous materials, thus arousing much interest. The purpose of this study is to determine interrelationship between how surrealism developed and what formative properties those clothes affected by surrealism obtained in the 1990s.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.84-93
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to design functional clothing based on the physical characteristics of old women. The subjects of this experiment were 5 healthy old women and 5 college women. While the subjects were exposed to the circumstances of $28{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ and local heating at 7 areas (chest, abdomen, back, loin, hand, thigh and instep), their skin temperature, physiological reaction and psychological reaction were determined. The conclusions about the effects of local heating are as follows : 1. Skin temperature before heating was in the order of head-neck> trunk> upper limbs> lower limbs (Group A: old subjects) and head-neck> trunk> lower limbs> upper limbs (Group B: young subjects). 2. The heating pad was attached and detached for 30 minutes each. The sharpest rise and fall were recorded at 5 minutes with the pad on and off. Both groups had great changes in the body parts near trunk. 3. With the pad on and off, both groups showed no change in body temperature, blood pressure, and pulse rate. 4. Concerning the pervasive effects of local heating on whole body skin temperature, loin heating greatly increased other body parts in Group A. In Group B, the effects were large in heating chest, abdomen, back, loin, and thigh. 5. The loin part of old women has the greatest pervasive effect of local body heating.