• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.275-286
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• 2008

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of Platycarya strobilacea bark extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($6.75{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($6.62{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($4.15{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was ethyl acetate fraction (OSC50, $0.56{\mu}g/mL$) < 50% ethanol extract ($0.02{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($0.01{\mu}g/mL$). The deglycosylated aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (50%) suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 717.27 min at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Platycarya strobilacea extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($243.98{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($153.87{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($137.53{\mu}g/mL$). Also, The inhibitory effect of elastase ($IC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($31.01{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($14.42{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($1.48{\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea extracts was formulated. The skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, and the whitening effects were investigated after topical application of the cream. The skin hydration of cream containing extract was increased by $2{\sim}8%$ than the placebo cream, transepidermal water loss was decreased. The cream containing extract suppressed the melanogenesis of skin by 9.55% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The inhibitory effect on elastase and tyrosinase, and the increase of skin hydration and the whitening effect of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.11-20
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• 2014

In this work, the antioxidative effects and active component analysis of Gnaphalium affine D. DON. (G. affine) extracts were investigated. All experiments were performed with 70% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of the G. affine extract. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of ethyl acetate fraction ($6.15{\mu}g/mL$) of the G. affine was higher than that of (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol ($8.89{\mu}g/mL$), which is known as a reference control. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of the 70% ethanol extract ($1.60{\mu}g/mL$), ethyl acetate fraction ($0.075{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction ($2.28{\mu}g/mL$) of extract of G. affine on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay were much higher than that of L-ascorbic acid ($6.88{\mu}g/mL$). The cellular protective effects of 70% ethanol extract (${\tau}_{50}$ = 52.0 min) and aglycone fraction of the extract (${\tau}_{50}$ = 60.6 min) on the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes were exhibited the higher protective effect than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (${\tau}_{50}$ = 38.0 min), known as a lipophilic antioxidant. TLC and HPLC were used to analyse active components in the aglycone fraction of the extract. Results showed that luteolin and apigenin were main components. These results suggest that the G. affine extract can be applied to an effective antioxidant in scavenging ROS including radicals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.175-182
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of Cedrela sinensis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract ($3.54\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($2.15\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) than the activity of (+)-$\alpha$-tocopherol ($8.98\;{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of Cedrela sinensis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract ($0.15\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($0.12\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed 10 times more excellent ROS scavenging activity than activity of L-ascorbic acid ($1.50\;{\mu}g/mL$). The protective effects of fractions of Cedrela sinensis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract and aglycone fraction of extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}25\;{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Cedrela sinensis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of Cedrela sinensis extract ($48.00\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($5.88\;{\mu}g/mL$). The aglycone fraction showed 40 times more remarkable tyrosinase inhibitory effect than whitening agent, arbutin ($226.88\;{\mu}g/mL$) These results indicate that fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be used as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant and whitening.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.303-314
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• 2010

In this study, the antibacterial, antioxidative effect and component analysis of Pinus koraiensis leaf extracts were investigated. MIC values of the ethyl acetate fraction from P. koraiensis leaf extracts on P. acnes, S. aureus, P. ovale, and E. coli were 0.06 %, 0.25 %, 0.13 % and 0.50 %, respectively. The results showed that the antibacterial activity of the ethyl acetate fraction on P. acnes, P. ovale. and S. aureus was more prominent. The aglycone fraction of P. koraiensis leaf extracts ($22.93\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed more higher free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity ($OSC_{50}$) of P. koraiensis leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system was investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % ethanol extract ($0.70\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. Also the ethyl acetate ($1.04\;{\mu}g/mL$) and the aglycone fraction ($1.43\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed very high antoxidant activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of P. koraiensis leaf extracts on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The P. koraiensis leaf extracts showed cellular membrane protective effects in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}50\;{\mu}g/mL$). TLC and HPLC chromatogram of the ethyl acetate fraction obtained from hydrolysis of P. koraiensis leaf extracts revealed 2 main bands (PK-4, PK-6) and peaks (peak 1, peak 2), which were identified as kaempferol-3-O-glucoside (PK-6, peak 1) and kaempferol-3-O-arabinoside (PK-4, peak 2) by LC/ESI-MS/MS, respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of P. koraiensis can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ROS, and protect cellular membrane against ROS. Extract/fractions of P. koraiensis can be applicable to new cosmeceuticals for antioxidant, antiaging, and antibacterial activity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 2009

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, and component analysis of fermented Melissa officinalis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract ($8.38{\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of M. officinalis. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some M. officinalis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_{2}O_{2}$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract ($0.63{\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of M. officinalis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The M. officinalis extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($5\;{\sim}\;75{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of M. officinalis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some M. officinalis extracts was 50 % ethanol extract ($365{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract ($122.43{\mu}g/mL$) < ethylacetate fraction ($94.8{\mu}g/mL$). Fractions of ethyl acetate both from ordinary and fermented M. officinalis extracts showed 2 band in TLC and 2 peak in HPLC (330 nm). In HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction, peak 1 (51.64 %) and peak 2 (48.36 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. Also, in HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract, peak 1 (4.13 %) and peak 2 (95.87 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. These results indicate that the component and content of ordinary and fermented extracts of M. officinalis are different. And the extract of M. officinalis can be used as an antioxidant.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, and component of non-fermented and fermented Lavandula angustifolia extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (5.95 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of L. angustifolia extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (1.45 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of L. angustifolia on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The L. angustifolia extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ${\sim}$ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of L. angustifolia extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of L. angustifolia extract (144.80 ${\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). Fractions of ethyl acetate and fermented extracts showed both 3 band in TLC and 3 peaks, 2 peaks in HPLC (340 nm), respectively. In each chromatography, fractions of ethyl acetate both from non-fermented and fermented L. angusfifolia have rosmarinic acid in common. These results indicate that the component and content of non-fermented and fermented extracts of L. angustifolia are different. Both of the extract of L. angustifolia can be used as an antioxidant.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.117-127
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Cayratia japonica extracts were investigated. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Cayratia japonica were in the order: 50% ethanol extract(114.3 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of some Cayratia japonica extracts in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction($OSC_{50},\;3.30{\mu}g/mL$)<50% ethanol extract(1.21 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Cayratia japonica on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Cayratia japonica extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner($1{\sim}25{\mu}g/mL$), particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect(${\tau}_{50}$, 175.05min at 25 ${\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Cayratia japonica extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments(360 nm). Two components were identified as luteolin(composition ratio, 47.50%), apigenin(52.50). TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Cayratia japonica extract revealed 3 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 4 peaks, which were identified as luteolin-7-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside(composition ratio, 11.14%), apigenin-7-O-${\beta}$-D-glucuronopyranoside(15.38%), luteolin(23.55%) and apigenin(49.92%) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase($IC_{50},\;70.5{\mu}g/mL$) was very high. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Cayratia japonica can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Cayratia japonica extract and antioxidative effects could be applicable to new cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.157-165
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 ${\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 $g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and 8.9 $g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.25-35
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase of Geranium nepalense extracts were investigated. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense were in the order: 50% ethanol extract(15.0 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). ${\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of some Geranium nepalense extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescense assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract($OSC_{50},\;0.23{\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Deglycosylated flavonoid fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Geranium nepalense extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 676.7 min at 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase($IC_{50}$, 70.0 ${\mu}g/mL$) and elastase ($IC_{50}$, 19.9 ${\mu}g/mL$) was very high. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl-acetate fraction among the Geranium nepalense extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (370 nm). Two components were identified as quercetin(composition ratio, 15.3%), kaempferol(82.8%). These results indicate that extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Geranium nepalense extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.250-260
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• 2012

In the present study, the antioxidative and antibacterial activities of Artemisia princeps Pampanini (A. princeps Pamp.) extract were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of A. princeps Pamp. showed the most prominent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}=12.27{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of A. princeps Pamp. extract on $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ systems were investigated using a luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of the extract ($OSC_{50}=0.33{\mu}g/mL$) had a 5 times greater ROS scavenging activity than L-ascorbic acid ($1.50{\mu}g/mL$), known as a water soluble antioxidant. The cellular protective effects of fractions of A. princeps Pamp. on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were examined. The aglycone fraction of extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner. The inhibitory effects of A. princeps Pamp. extract on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficiency. The ethyl acetate fraction demonstrated a 7 times higher tyrosinase inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}=29.20{\mu}g/mL$) than albutin, known as a whitening agent. The antibacterial activity of ethyl acetate fractions against various normal skin flora were measured. The results showed that the antibacterial activity of the fraction was the highest on Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, and Propionibacterium acnes. Antioxidant substances were isolated and purified from the ethyl acetate fractions. Eupatilin and jaceosidin were identified. These results indicate that the extract/fractions of A. princeps Pamp. can function as antioxidant and/or antibacterial agents for the skin.