• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.215-231
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• 2023

This study classifies short front long back skirts from the Joseon Dynasty by style type, identifies their formative characteristics based on their external morphological properties and internal composition, and examines their correlation with Korean thought. A literature review and empirical research were conducted for this study. The style of short front long back skirts is classified as inverted "b"-shaped, lower lip, wavy, trapezoid with a raised center hem, or half-circle. As such, this skirt possesses the formative properties of imbalance, variability of shape, intentional three-dimensionality, and confluence. In other words, with an imbalance resulting from the difference in length between the front and back, these skirts are characterized by variability in shape created by intentional three-dimensionality expressed as intentional three-dimensional beauty, the confluence of planes and dimensions, as well as of materials and colors. These properties are correlated with Korean ways of viewing the world. This study contributes to the development of Korean designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.323-333
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning and formative features of the black color reflected on the fetish fashion. This study was proceeded mainly by analyzing with references and plates of magazine. The results of the study were as follows ; First, the sexual liberation and revolution have certainly led to a reassessment of sexual deviations, which changed the meaning of fetishism that has been only regarded as sexual perversion, so that it symbolied a new sexual perception and identification. As the result, black in fetish fashion was symbolized a new fetishism\`s definition which refused to distinguish male from female, and also reflected the meaning to express the second sex that wanted to express themselves. Second, the formative features of black color in fetish fashion have appeared tightness and bareness in form, and in material, glancing materials changed by the effect of light, and elasticity materials-leather, rubber, PVC, and laycra. By these features, black fetish fashion has drawn a higher attention on human body than the dress itself as a symbol about the psychology of erotic sensations and sexual images of the self appearing in black color.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1237-1241
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• 2004

The Study on the constitutional composition of the formative factor for cognition and thought process in the cognition of man in the Yin Yang twenty-five type man of the Young Chu makes up the deficiency of economic-social factor begining with the influence of environment. The constitutional composition of the formative factor for cognition and thought process in the cognition of man the Yin Yang twenty-five type man of the Young Chu are interpretated the Yin type man -preponderance characteristic. The Chinese social delineation in the Yin Yang twenty-five type man of the Young possess the characteristic of the Yin type man - preponderance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meaning of retro-fashion, to research the formative feature characteristic and aesthetic values. Retro-fashion is one of the expression of spatiotemporal-eclecticism, The formative of modern Retro-fashion are as follows: First, Retro-fashion based on spatiotemporal-eclecticism have been come from 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s style of time, and the asia, africa, middle east, latin America in region. Second, the design inspiration and technique is used more primitive crafts and decoration like handcrafted material, handmade ornaments as dyeing and embroidery of bohemian, jacqwuard pattern, oriental beads, applique, new hippie touch, patchwork, smocking, primitive button, woods, ethnic motives. Third, modern Retro-fashion is reflection of human feelings as nostalgia from the past, it supplies the sense of fashion creativity and new ideas.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.342-352
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• 2008

Picasso and Chanel were the most famous artists of modern art & fashion area in 20th century. It is well known that they have deeply influenced to the current fashion and art. This study is aimed to analyze Channel's works based on the aspects of Picasso's from 1900's to 1930's. There are five common, distinct and formative aspects - flatness, geometry, transparency based on multi-perspective, volume, variety of objects. Their works are based on the simplicity which is expressed by the analyzation, organization, deconstruction influenced by cubism. It is reconfirmed that they gave the general public the new value-functionality-by using the ready-made materials. Nowadays artists model themselves after Picasso and Chanel who made attempt to conversion of ideas, the steady style, the long view, the interchange of other fields and popularization.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.687-702
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to study the inner meaning and formative with distorted and atypical Informel image, body image expressed in modern fashion. Method of the study is as follow. The study method examined philosophy of art 19th century?in order to consider interconnections between social and cultural characteristics of expressionistic abstract art, a form of Informel and changed physical style. Based on this method, the Informel image that appeared in the plastic arts in terms of artistic significance and aesthetic value was examined. Based on the above discussion on modern fashion Informel images were expressed in any formative characteristics were considered. The results of this study are as follows. Contingencies through the spontaneous act of art to transcend the image of atypical lines formed elements of coincidence, was developed. Liberation was expressed from liberation of physical boundaries and created outward expansion of the free formative. Atypical was organic forms pursuing spontaneous plasticity and diversity, and appeared in the form of distortion and deformation.

• Journal of Engineering Education Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.62-69
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• 2010

Program learning outcome is widely used for assessing and improving program quality. There are various methodologies that can measure program quality and improve program learning outcomes. In this paper, we used formative approach in Capstone design course, since it is the most effective in terms of improving program learning outcomes due to the course's intrinsic nature. To integrate a formative approach into Capstone design course, we develop a feedback structure which is a key element in formative approach and define several sub phases that manage feedback structures and their own evaluation criteria. As a result, we observed a noticeable improvement for students performance in capstone design course.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.849-859
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• 2012

This study contributes to the development of a creative fashion design and provides concrete data regarding the process of creative ideas through an analysis of the characteristics of the fashion design idea and the characteristics of fashion design from a formative perspective according to Osborn's checklist method. The data collection involved 466 pages that focused on the work of 30 designers (2005 S/S-2009 F/W) extracted from the websites style.com and ifb.co.kr. In the cases of pictures collected, a content analysis was applied based on statistical analysis and design analysis criteria. First, as a result of the examination of the characteristics of ideas for fashion design based on the checklist, it turned out that elimination method is most frequently employed, followed by addition, conversion, limit and combination. In addition, every idea showed a significant difference in terms of the applied item, expression method, and balance. Second, due to the study of the formative characteristics of fashion design (based on the checklist), it turned out that square-shaped silhouette, achromatic and chromatic colors, combined tones, identical color combination, complex texture, and identical texture combination are frequently used. In addition, every idea showed a significant difference in terms of form, color, and fabric. We believe that the use of the checklist is useful for the development of a creative design because formative characteristics vary based on the characteristic of ideas of fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.883-895
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• 2005

Exaggeration is to express an object or a situation in an excessive way. As the desire for aesthetic expression grows greater today, we tended to focus on the exaggerative expression as a means to acquire other's attention and praise. Also people more actively express their own intention or opinion in an exaggerated manner. The purpose of this study is to identify the social and cultural functions of modern fashion via exaggerative expression, one of the formative characteristics, and its meaning. To do so, the exaggerative features of modern fashion have been analyzed, and the social and cultural meaning of those have been examined through the background of the times and aesthetic sense. The formative form in the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion was classified into a body priority type emphasizing woman's body contour, a body disregarded type shown oversized silhouette regardless of body contour and a body distorted type expressing free and diverse form in various shapes of asymmetry and imbalance. The symbolic meanings of those include the changing of the body consciousness and the notions of feminity, and the desire fur formative and playable expression. The exaggeration of the costume in history meant aesthetic value of the woman's body in the society led by men. However, the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion is a method to express more actively, as compared with the costume in the past.