• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.277-294
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine characteristics of symbolism as an important trend of the end of centuries, by comparing the symbolic characteristics from two periods, modern(1880∼1910s) and comtemporary(1990s), based on the typical characteristics of symbolic art by Robert R. Delevoy. Af for the study method, the contents analysis is adopted to present an objective data analysis and interpretation accompanied by theoretical approach through literature survey. Delevoy classifies symbolism into three categories such as mysticism, eroticism, and decorativeness. This study is developed based on the Delevoy's three categories. symbolistic costume reflecting systems of the society and the phases of the times, became to contain all aspects of functional, symbolic, and practical. Especially, the costume I contemporary era adopted a new approach, philosophical factors controling human's sensibility, and a sincere and analytical attitude on progress of technology. This study provide the fact that costume is a part to create aesthetic of self-expression as a field of formative art. Contemporary costume allows vital power for daily life of human by pursuing new aesthetic value, and it expresses inner world of human and moves on future-oriented to regain humanity. The symbolistic characteristics will continue to influence varous aspects of our society and play a main role in shaping the purpose of fashion design in the 21st century.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.143-160
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• 1999

The purpose of this dissertation is to interpret fashion through a socio-cultural phenomenon called kitsch by understanding its aesthetic characteristics and clarifying its significance in the modern consumer society and analyzing the examples of kitsch appearing in modern fashion. The following are the arguments and conclusion of this dissertation. First kitsch has negative meanings such as aesthetic inadequacy or bad tastes implying vulgar popular tastes of faked sensations just imitating elite culture and using things indiscriminately for inferior reproduction or at best the philosophical and aesthetic category that expresses the mass of people's attitudes toward life in accepting the consumer culture of the industrial society. It started from the art of romanticism accompanied by th commercializing of art with the bourgeois society background formed in the mid-19th century. Though kitsch started to prevail following the socio-cultural changes caused by the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century it is only in the late 20th century that kitsch has come tc our everyday life and has become an object of aesthetic arguments. Second formative characteristics of kitsch appearin in fashion have a cumulative inadequate romantic pleasure-seeking satirizing and multicomplex nature. Third the socio-cultural meanings of kitsch appearing in fashion are as follows: The extension of commercialism which gratifies the pleasure-seeking mass consumers the enlargement of the aesthetic category by inclining to everyday commonplace aesthetic sense the expression of one's identity through the gratification of desire and the new aesthetics of resistance and deviance by an anti-traditional and anti-elite tendency towards the traditional society and aesthetic values.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.42-53
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to clarify how modern fashion show makeup reflects surrealism: it also proposes fashion show make-up expressed by focusing on objects. This study aims to research make-up characterized by surrealistic object expression, which is frequently used in the 21st century modern fashion shows, and reviews the concept of the objects positioned importantly in the history of modern makeup. In this study, the influence of the object over modern makeup, particularly fashion show makeup is reviewed together with the characteristics of the object. As a result of reviewing the concepts of modern fashion show makeup by applying objects, the conclusions that are gained are as follows. Fashion show makeup expressed in today's modern time tends to emphasize the artists' unique expressions and personality, while many artists attempt to use various expression ideas and techniques. Objects are variously expressed in makeup and in the $21^{st}$ century, this is the due to the development of digital technology and expansion of designers' imagination Furthermore, surrealistic makeup achieves eminence in styling by showing the formative limits of human beings. The types of surrealistic techniques are expressed as transposition, distortion, and optical illusion in makeup. Expansion of material became the momentum in order to provide unique ideas in fashion show makeup. Moreover, the object of surrealism has a considerable influence on the development of makeup. In this regard, more positive attempts for new designs are being expected.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.70-83
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• 2013

This study aims to analyze the physical distortions of fashion design which appear in the 20th century. People have been expressing the hope and beauty by twisting human body since the beginning of mankind. Each period has been showing different forms according to various social and cultural environments. The exaggerated body distortions from the primitive times to the modern are based on human body proportions. Such distortion is to emphasize the inherent beauty within the human body. However, the distortions of the body after the 20th century have been developed with the advent of surrealism which is not affected by reasons but by imaginations. Generally speaking, the reconstruction of the heterogeneous elements is allowed in art. The unexpected surreal elements are creating formative beauty using by distinctly different technique which is unfamiliar and awkward. Physical distortion creates other beauty that is not uniform and absolute beauty but it pursues the diversity of breaking down into categories. Formativeness of surreal physical distortion fashion has the potential for a variety of clothing design, therefore it has intrinsic values for continuous study.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.29-36
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• 2006

Fashion and interior architecture are two areas of design that may share common issues, trends and philosophies, making fashion design human's second skin and interior architecture the third. The concept of 'skin' has become one of the most interesting phenomena in design during the past decade and not surprisingly similar issues can be seen also in fashion and architectural design. The current trend in fashion design is that the skin (clothing) has become detached from the human body and extended into the environment, resulting fashion as art objects. Skin in architecture and interior design has also become detached from the structure so designers have more freedom to experiment by using advanced technologies. The present study attempts to analyze common features of 'skin phenomenon' in fashion and interior architecture that are; detachment, emphasis on space, extension, territorial blending, and digital applications. The researcher has used constant comparative method to categorize the five features among many examples. The limitation of this study is that it is focused on the formative phenomena of projects excluding the philosophies and personal background of each designer. However, it is hoped that the study may assist designers and other researchers to understand relationships between fashion and interior design, hold broader spectrum in art and design.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.114-124
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• 2007

Contemporary fashion design has been represented as intermedia transcended value and spatiotemporal notion and also had a tendency to concentrate on serial process that materials are transfigured through time rather than existence. These forms related to interaction with time, space and performance as well as compositive genres, hybrid culture, compound gender define as 'serial expression' in this study. The serial expression ran be characterized that system, process, series, enumeration of sequences, depiction of performance, repetition of action in fashion collections and exhibitions of designers. The concept and circumstances made by author as a creator of fashion broaden perceptions of audiences and arouse spectators to participate in the situation as needing immediate attention. The forms of fashion and Conceptual Art in serial expression are analogous and even identical situations represent in fashion collection. Therefore analysis serial forms of art derives formative features: Narrative process, Imitation and Appropriation, Virtual reality and High technology, Hybridism and Convergence. This study suggest a framework to analyze conceptual fashion that give salience to megatrend in contemporary fashion culture on artistic point of view.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.17-44
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• 1997

Medieval European practical art and style of costume is studied through referring to the literatures. The type of clothing that was seen on tapestries arts and crafts paintings and wall paintings and appeared in the architecture such as church. There were symbolic aspects of color motifs at this period and some restraints for clothing according to the social class, It was a period that draped garments due to the War of Crusades is appeared. Be-cause the medieval taste and decorative character is not only 'formative art' but also the taste beyoud 'mode' and atomsphere of that times it could be seen the strong reflec-tion of customs in the clothing of that times which is shown in works of art. 1) The purpose of Christian art which was found in mosaics stained glasses wall pain-tings and statues of architecture was not just the revival of natural phenomena but visuali-zation of sacred and invisible things. It was valuable to understandin of the spiritual through the sense organ It was a monumental art that was combined with decorative func-tion and role of the Bible. It revealed what was about the religious spiritual miracle, 2) In the medieval European painting characteristic and beautiful creativity was the basis of an argument. Both "Worship of East-ern" that is painted ion a parchment and "Cor-onation of Charles VI" were described decor-ation motifs on the edge of buildings geo-metric patterns and others with outstanding skill. there were precise technologic skill of architect and glassmen and lots of patience of craftsmen. " The Labour of the Months" and the scene of"A Trial at the Court" is also de-scribed elaborately. 3) Tapestry was developed in France Ger-many Swiss at the 14th century. Religionary and historical themes unicorn lady bird flowering plants and others were major motifs. It was very important as decorative wall coverings and as practical door arch and bed hangings. It was made through patient hard work with simple technique and it was con-sidered as an art for practical use. Tapestry was what everyone wish to have. It is reckoned for the item of the best gift. The royalty and nobility ordered and used custom-made tapestries. Sometimes the subject of motifs consisted of series which were deeply related to living 4) Decorative arts and crafts was the art that used materials such as precious metals jewels and others and that accorded with the luxurious and gorgeous taste of the royalty and nobility. Christian considered splendid and beautiful color of light as a symbol of glory. They used also for church appliances, There were metal crafts wood crafts textile crafts and others, As was stated above the costume appeared on the arts and crafts for living revealed the process of changes saw how the politic econ-omic and social organizations were developed.and social organizations were developed.

• 복식
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• 제66권8호
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• pp.14-32
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• 2016

This study examines the morphological expression type and formative characteristics of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology. The results of the study are as follows. First, the morphological expression types of contemporary shoes that integrate 3D printing technology express a structural form created by repetition. Second, it expresses a dynamic form, which combines organic curves that create an external volume. Third, it expresses a surrealistic form centered on an object with the creation of a unique shape that utilizes objects easily experienced in local surroundings. Fourth, it expresses a hybrid form on a partial derivation. Each of the other system's components are fused to create another beauty that develops a new value in a colorful variation on the shape of 3D printing shoes. The first formative characteristic of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology is continuity. This creates an invisible form of a new space through repetitive unidirectional layers with a gradual expansion of a unitary seamless curves. Second, it is an exaggeration. This exaggeration elicits an enormous aesthetic quality by structuring the outward space in the difference of the volume formed based on the maximization of a specific part and the volume of a line's atypical movement. Third, it is a decoration. It displays the beauty of a decoration that evokes a unique artistic inspiration by partial unification or a practical representation of a specific form. This can also be seen as superimposing a 3D printing figure that has an outstanding shape onto part of the fashion shoes. Fourth, it concerns a geometrical characteristic that formulates a new structure with rationality in combining basic shapes such as circles, triangles and squares with lines, hexagons and interconnected geometrical forms to create a multi-dimensional space for shoes in a systematic and unidirectional pattern.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.960-976
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• 2005

Classicism pursued beauty comprised of a perfect form, and beauty was perceived as a state of sufficiency. Accordingly, a completed and permanent beauty was sought after; as a result, a perfect and flawless form became the mainstream, and there was an effort to visualize the eternal proportional perfection. In classicism, forms were perfectly embodied with systematic inevitability and absolute inflexibility, by which an extremely clear aspect appeared. This study analyzes a classical construction paradigm in modern fashion according to the five categories: 'Harmony and order by numerical proportion', 'Clear form', 'Simplification of form and two-dimensional Seh-form', 'Completed contracture structure', and 'Pluralistic unification', and the respective formative characteristics are as follows. First, in terms of the formative aspect of modern fashion,'Harmony and order by numerical proportion' results from thorough observance of extreme and golden section (proportion of 5 :8) which was an aesthetic standard of beautiful body in classicism. Second, 'Clear form' appears in clothes as individual clearness of structural elements expressing each part of body, and shows a well-established form possible to be grasped with equal and clear contour line. Third,'Simplification of form and two-dimensional Seh-form' comes out as form composition, single line, single layer structure, two-dimensional form and arrangement of elements of clothes through the front viewpoint caused by 2D diagramming work while fashion-designing and producing. Also, it is seen that two-dimensional proportion which is composed of sections through various harmonious lines and sides according to the simple two-dimensional compatibility principle is accomplished. Fourth, 'Completed contracture structure' emerges as an expression of stationariness, in other words, fixation of an overall impression. This is a tendency that the overall form is grasped as a fixedly intact shape without a big change of the silhouette of clothes. Fifth, 'Pluralistic unification' means that it respectively emphasizes all the parts composing clothes by making them individually independent at the same time as each element is inclusively shown with the harmony of the overall silhouette of clothes and many other details. This study examined classical formative characteristics through a theoretical research on a formative paradigm revealing the classical style. Also, the significance of classical or rational value of art was illuminated by observing what characteristics a classical formation paradigm shows in modern fashion. As a result, classical characteristics in modern fashion prove that classicism is not a merely past construction style separated from the present but a construction paradigm deeply involved in our reason system.

• 동양고전연구
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• 제50호
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• pp.295-318
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• 2013

본 논문을 '근대적 예술 개념으로서의 서예'를 정의해 보고자하는 글이다. 근대성의 지표로서의 '자율성'에 근거하여 '순수예술로서의 서예성'과 배치되는 요소들을 제거해 봄으로써 현재 우리가 처해있는 시대의 서예는 어떠해야 하는지를 반추해보자는 의미이다. 근대예술 개념으로서의 서예를 '글자를 쓰는 예술'로 정의하고, 이를 성격과 형식, 내용적 측면으로 분류하여 논의하였다. 먼저 성격적 측면에서 서예는 마땅히 공간예술이어야 하지만, 시간의 추이와 함께 창작되고 감상되는 시간예술적 속성도 또한 지닌다. 따라서 공간예술 가운데 2차원적 공간예술인 회화와 가장 유사하며, 시간예술 가운데 리듬성(운동성)과 추이성을 내재한 음악과 유사하여 시공간예술로서의 무용과 유사함을 설명하였다. 따라서 서예는 '회화와 같이 눈에 보이는 글자를 음악과 같이 시간의 추이에 따라 (평면)공간에 써가는 사이에 살아있는 작가의 생명감이 표현되는' 무용과 같은 '시공간 예술'이라 하였다. 형식적 측면에서는 서예를 전각 서각 문자디자인과의 비교를 통해 동이점을 도출함으로써 '순수예술'로서의 서예 개념을 도출하였다. 서예의 내용적 측면은 문학과의 비교를 통해서 동이점을 논설하였다. 근대예술 개념으로서의 서예, 즉 서예의 자율성 문제는 순수예술이냐 응용예술(실용예술)이냐의 문제와 어울려 서예의 소재인 문자의 가독성(可讀性)과 문의(文意) 문제를 들었다. 문자의 가독성과 문의는 서예를 존재케 하는 요소임과 동시에 서예의 자율성을 제약하는 요소로 작용하는 일종의 파라독스다. 즉 문자의 가독성과 문의의 수용 여부는 서예를 응용예술 혹은 문학예술의 부용으로서의 서예인가, 순수조형예술인가의 가름이 되기 때문이다. 이와 연관하여 서예의 창작과 감상 부분에서는 2차원적 공간예술인 회화와 시간적 예술인 음악과 대비시킴으로서 문의로부터 자유로운 '순수조형예술로서의 서예'의 가능성을 제시하였다.