• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.1
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• pp.189-226
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• 1999

The purpose of this paper is to examine the common characteristics of late 20th century interior design style and the post-modern thinking system. A period has its own predominant spirit which determine the tendency of art, and the ubiquitous power in the spirit decides the period's pattern of art. Therefore the interior design style belongs to general art sphere that has its own individual character derived from the dominant power of the controlling system. Paying special attention to this understanding, the auther has processed this paper by combining the post-modem thinking with special characteristics of each of the 20th century interior design style. Until now, researches have been focused on the individual style of post-modern design; however, a general research comprising the whole characteristics of expression has not been made. Accordingly, the rationale of emphasizing the general point of view is establshed. Also, this study suggests a model applicable to studies concerning other art area. This type of methodology is receving more attention as an approach investigating new art ideology for researching post-modern thinking and late 20th century art styles. The conclusions are as follows: First, the distinctive expressions of postmodernism appear to be characteristic of illusion, metaphor, pluralism, decoration, and symmetry, Those of late modernism appear to be the characteristic of complicated simplicity and symplified complexity, passiveness of symbolism and harmony, indeterminacy of form and space, and unintentional decorativeness. And the characteristics of deconstructionism are spatial difference and temporal defferal, and un-reductive and non formal abstractiveness of the space, unfinishness, chance, and secretiveness of individual style. Second, the disinctive expression seems to share common characteristics with postmodern thinking. The best examples are pluralism, non-formalism, populism, and historicism, originating from the deconstruction of 'meta-narrative'. Third, based on the second conclusion, general distinctive expression could be simplified as chacteristics of plurality, hybridity, and indeterminacy. These expressive chacteristics appear to be automatically connected with general postmodern thinking. Last, in consideration of the above conclusion, the extreme generality could be distinctively clarified as 'textural co-exsistence'. Accordingly, the author might confirm that 'textural co-existence' originated from the text that comes from postmodern thinking. In conclusion, design expression of late 20th century interior design accepts the ?universal theme of ubiquitous postmodern thinking. And universal expressions and supreme generality can be common analysis tools for understanding and studying complicated late 20th century interior design.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.8
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• pp.89-119
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• 2009

Kim, Jun-Geun(Gisan) was a late 19th century Chosen dynasty painter who created numerous genre paintings for West European clients in the newly opened treaty ports of Wonsan, Busan and Inchon. The treaty ports in the late 19th century Chosen represented of the crossroads the economy, values, and the institutions of the West European powers. In particular, the agriculture-based economy, Confucianism, and land-owner noble class started being eroded by a commerce-based economy, the values of Christianity, West European institution, and a new class of people who amassed wealth from commerce. As Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings were created for sale to West European clients, they exhibit characteristics that are distinct from the traditional genre paintings in terms of presentation style and the selection of the subject matters. The export genre painting originated in the 18th century around Guangdong, China. Broadly, there are two styles of genre paintings: the Guangzhou style and Ningbo style. Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings resemble the Ningbo style. The Ningbo style tends to highlight the main subjects, form an album of small paintings, and provide a simple treatment of the scenes without the background. Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings cover most aspects of life of common people of his time, ranging well beyond the subjects matters of the traditional genre paintings. His subject matters include the scenes of funeral, folk games, Buddhist and ancestor worship, prison and punishment, shaman custom, debauchees, government officials' formal trips, beggars and handicapped, etc. Many of the subjects are the neglected and the oppressed of the society. And he presents in detail the dress and its ornament that the subjects wear, and all the utensils and things around them. Besides, his subjects' faces are generally expressionless, and their postures are stiff; as such, the feeling of liveliness or movement is lacking. It may be the results of Kim, Jun-Geun's taking the other perspective, namely of his West European clients, rather than his own. The adoption of the other perspective may in turn be a product of the Social Darwinism and the new sense of values that accompanied the infusion of Christianity and West European institutions. Kim, Jun-Geun's portrayals of his subjects appear to reflect the attributes with which the West European Orientalists' of the period characterized the people of the Far East, namely, backwardness, barbarity, irrationality, violence, and mysticism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.130-144
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• 2008

A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows: First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress. Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive; as Goguryeo was a prosperous country established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style. Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and also limited to formal analysis, this study aims to derive design elements for actual clothing making. These results are expected to be used as basic material for study as well as reference for designers who wish to design modern Korean clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.115-124
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• 2008

This study explores the beneficial methodology to increase cultural values of urban style Hanok, Korean traditional residence. Based on the literary geographical approach, this study defines the physical identities of special Bukchon Hanok area in Seoul. The explored physical identities are to provide basic fundamentals for supplying and maintaining new Hanok buildings, including how to preserve and restore the traditional Hanok areas. They are also to develop various Hanok related cultural products and to encourage Hanok popularization. In addition, this study is to add more the humane values and significances to the previous relevant researches. With these perspectives and through above mentioned methodology, the study draws the physical identities of Bukchon Hanok area and meanings as belows: The first one is the collective identity. Bukchon Hanok area is mainly composed of organic spaces with its collective scenary. Narrow alleys and curved lanes created by collective gaps between Hanok buildings, provide residents and visitors with abundant choices of moving path. The second one is the formal identity. Bukchon Hanok maintain their unique layout patterns. The basic units of Chae are combined in specific ways such as 'ㄱ', 'ㄷ', 'ㅁ' types and result typical formal expression of the area. The third one is grounding identity which represent the relationship between the earth and every-day living space. Each Chaes of house always surround Madang, Korean traditional court yard with rare vegetation. And the connection to the ground is transferred to the memories of its dwellers. Lastly, the current Hanok still preserve similar characteristics of past time Hanok such as materials, structure and styles by using unique building technics and exposing traditional ornamenting styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.71-86
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• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.356-375
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and cultural values of the headdress among Chinese minorities with diverse ethnic cultures, and to provide various data on the design of clothing accessories. Theoretical considerations about ethnic minorities were addressed through literature and prior research, with data being collected using literature and websites. The results are as follows. First, the most common type of headdress is the horizontal type, which includes the head style, headband, and head scarf. The second most common is the cylinder type, which is a headdress with variations in the shape of a round hat, and has is evident among various minorities. Third, the pagoda type is decorated with ornaments mounted on top of a round shape. Fourth, the square crown type is a piece of wood as a material for a form of the material and for a variety of jewelry and the production of up to meet the women's head of the jewelry. Fifth, head belt-type ornaments consist of a headband and fancy bead ornaments from the bottom of the head. Mongol women usually wear an exaggerated form of this type. Sixth, the head cover type is a head decoration influenced by the dress code of Muslim women. Seventh is the disc type of crown shape worn by the Dai. Next, the ogival type is a cone-shaped headdress hat most commonly seen as head ornament hat among the Dai. Lastly, the sailboat type is the most exaggerated form of hair ornaments found among ethnic minorities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.211-225
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• 1992

The purposes of this study were 1) to estimate the brand loyalty related to clothing items,2) to investigate the differences between the brand loyal group and the brand disloyal group in 4 determinant variables (product involvement, information source, purchase-related and demo- graphic variables) of brand loyalty, 3) to find out important determinant variables which explain the brand loyalty on clothing items, and 4) to identify product attributes that lead to brand loyalty on clothing items. Four clothing items selected (ortho study were underwear, jean / skirt, T-shirt / sweater, and formal dress / suits. The questionnaire was administered to 529 adult women living in Seoul, and the methods used to analyze the data were Frequency, T-Test, $x^{2}-test$, Factor Analysis and Multiple Discriminant Analysis. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Both behavior and attitude are needed for the measurement of brand loyalty in clothing. The hightes brand loyal item was formal dress / suits, followed by jean / skirt, T-shirt / sweater, underwear. 2) There were some significant differences between the brand loyal group and the brand disloyal group in 4 determinant variables of brand loyalty. 3) The important determinant variables of brand loyalty were perceived risk / brand differ-ence, purchase experience / self-confidence in purchase, and product symbolic / hedonic mean-ing, of which the most important varible was found to be perceived risk / brand difference. 4) The most important product attribute that lead to brand loyalty for underwear was comfort whereas for the other 3 clothing items, it was style. Quality was the second important productattributeforallclothingitems.