• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.467-476
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.

• Economic and Environmental Geology
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.287-299
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• 1991

The study area is mainly composed of metasedimentary rocks which are included in Ogchon, Choson and Pyongan Groups. Because of thrust faults which are developed in this area, a coal bearing formation is repeatedly distributed two times, and Choson Group is thrusted over Pyongan Group. Deformation in this area was taken place in a series of three phases ($D_1$, $D_2$ and $D_3$) ; $D_1$ was most intense whereas $D_3$ was weakest. Thrust faults developed in the upper curst duringD2 produced cataclastic rocks and fault breccia,truncating regional slaty cleavage and earlier folds which were formed during $D_1$ stage. The quartz microstructures of metapsammitic rocks in Choson and Pyongan Groups suggest that dislocation creep mechanism predominated early in fabric development, afterwards deformation mechanism was transfered to pressure solution which intensified the earlier fabrics. According to strain analysis using quartz grains and quartz aggregate grains, the strain magnitude(Es) of Pyongan Group represents larger values than that of Choson Group due to the contrast of constituent minerals, the size of original quartz grains and matrix content. Apparent flattening type in strain pattern appears in the whole area. It is suggested that the relationship between Ogchon Group and Choson Group may be thrust contact.