• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.43-59
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• 2008

삽(?)은 유교 예법에 따른 상장례(喪葬禮) 도구로 나무로 틀을 만들고 그 위에 백포(白布)나 두꺼운 종이를 붙여 그림을 그린 후, 자루를 달아 들 수 있도록 한 것이다. "례기(禮記)"에 따르면 삽은 주대(周代)부터 사용되었던 것으로 기록되어 있는데, 우리나라의 "조선왕조실록(朝鮮王朝實錄)"이나 "국조오례의(國朝五禮儀)", "사례편람(四禮便覽)"에 나타난 삽의 용례와 크게 차이가 나지 않는다. 본고에서는 현존하는 조선시대 사대부가의 회격 회곽묘에서 발견되는 삽의 발굴 사례 및 문헌 기록을 통해 그 용례와 제작방식, 시기에 따른 유물의 특징에 대해 고찰하고자 한다. 삽은 신분에 따라 사용하는 개수와 그리는 문양이 다른데, 사대부가에서는 주로 '아(亞)'형의 불삽 1쌍과 구름 문양을 그린 화삽 1쌍을 사용하였다. 삽의 크기는 너비가 2자[척(尺)], 높이 2자[척(尺] 4치[촌(寸)]로 만들었는데 초주지나, 저주지로 두 번 싸고, 세 번째는 연창지로 쌌다. 그리고 나서 백저포, 마포, 무명, 공단 등으로 덮었다. 그 양면에 보불을 그리고 구름 변아(邊兒)에 운기를 그리는데 대개 주사 또는 진사를 사용하였다. 사대부가 회격 회곽묘에서 출토되는 삽은 광중에 부장된 것으로, 삽자루와 분리된 형태이다. 즉, 출토되는 삽은 발인행렬시 삽을 매달았던 5자 길이의 삽자루는 태워 없애고, 관의 좌우에 세워 넣은 것이다. 출토 유물의 검토를 통해서도 제작과정을 유추할 수 있다. 출토된 유물은 각(角)의 개수에 따라 각이 3개 달린 것과 2개 달린 것으로 대별된다. 먼저 각이 3개 달린 것(유형 I) 중에는 나무 통판을 사용하거나 대나무를 납작하게 갈라, 바구니처럼 엮은 것도 있다. 각이 3개인 삽은 비교적 조선 전기에 집중되어 있으며, 전체적인 형태에 비해 그 제작방식이 다양한 편으로 생각된다. 반면 각이 2개 달린 삽의 경우에는 비교적 정형화된 제작방식이 보인다. 직사각형이나 역사다리꼴로 몸통부분을 만든 후, 2개의 각이 달린 삽의 윗부분을 연결한 형태이다. 다만 상단면을 곡선(유형 II) 또는 직선(유형 III)으로 처리하는 것이 다르다. 이러한 제작방식은 각이 3개 달린 것에 비해 간단하며, 제작기법 상의 차이는 크지 않다. 특히 상단면을 직선으로 처리하는 방식은 오늘날까지도 사용되고 있다. 분석에 사용된 30건 중 묘주의 몰년, 즉 삽의 제작 연대가 명확한 것만 선택하여 분석한 결과, 유형 I은 16세기 전반에 집중되어 있음을 알 수 있다. 이어 유형 II는 16세기 후반부터 17세기 후반, 유형 III은 17세기 전반부터 18세기 전반까지 고르게 분포하고 있다. 요컨대 삽의 형태는 유형 I에서 유형 II로, 다시 유형 II에서 유형 III으로 변화하고 있는 것으로 생각된다. 17세기는 변화의 시기로 유형 II III이 혼재되어 있다. 유형을 크게 3가지로 구분하였으나 유형 II III은 각이 2개인 측면에서 그 형태가 유사하다고 볼 때 주목할 만한 전환기는 16세기 중반이라고 볼 수 있다. 아마도 유형 I은 유형 II III에 비해 제작 과정상 공이 더 많이 들어갈 것으로 생각되며, 후대로 내려올수록 경제성의 원리에 따라 삽의 형태 및 제작방법도 간소해진 것으로 보인다. 상장례의 간소화 경향은 "선조실록(宣祖實錄)"에 예장(禮葬)이 몇 차례 중지되는 사건들을 통해 임진왜란 이후에 가속화된 변화로 볼 수 있다. 삽의 경우 이미 16세기 후반부터 간소화되고 있었으며, 심지어 18세기에는 삽을 따로 제작하지 않고 구의(柩衣) 및 관(棺)에 직접 그리는 현상까지 초래하였다. 그러나 형태적으로 단순화 되는 과정에도 "례기(禮記)"의 삽 사용 규정은 지켜지고 있어, 그 의례의 형식은 합리적으로 간소화되었음을 알 수 있다.