• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.635-641
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• 2013

This study examined the dye-properties of natural fabrics dyed with Coptis chinensis and Curcuma longa root fermented with fungi. The optimum culture conditions for the fermentation of microorganisms, the relationship between natural dye color and fermentation conditions were investigated. Two different medical herbs (ground to 80-100 mesh in size) were used as a natural dyeing source. Phellinus linteus (P. linteus), which can grow in different media, such as Agarmedium (only agar containing medium), maltose extract agar (MA) and potato dextrose extract agar (PDA) culture media, were isolated from the medium. P. linteus was confirmed to be the optimum microorganism for the fermentation of Coptis chinensis and Curcuma longa, and the MA medium was confirmed to be the best for culturing. When using the microorganism as the fermenting agent, $32^{\circ}C$ was found to be the optimum fermenting temperature for both natural colorants. Regarding the dyeing property of the fermented natural dye, silk was dyed quite darkly in an appearance by naked eye estimation and the K/S value in the color strength of silk reached a high level of 16 after the fermenting process. The washing fastness of dyed silk after treatment washing was reduced from 4 to under4 and indicates that dyed silk with fermented plant was not unsubstantial. The light fastness was 1 to 2, showing intended to maintain due to the fermentation process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.337-343
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimal dyeing conditions and human-friendly properties of the extract from the branches of Alnus firma tree which is widely used for forestation and to provide basic information for quantification and commercialization of natural dyeing by discovering such as dye material. The optimal dyeing conditions, as a result, were shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time. In terms of dye uptake depending on the mordanting methods, it showed the best result in order of Fe, Sn, Cu and Al at pre-mordanting while found strong in order of Fe, Cu, Al and Sn at post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing and dry cleaning was found strong at grade 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at 2. The grade of change in color to rubbing and perspiration was good at 4-5. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 96.1% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneuminiae. It is considered, therefore, the extract from Alnus firma tree is of great value as an eco-friendly natural dyestuff.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.748-755
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabric using charcoal as colorants. Particle size of charcoal, dyeability(K/S), SEM morphology of dyed fabrics and color fastness were also investigated. In this study, cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of charcoal was 1.44 ${\mu}m$. According to various conditions, the dyeing effects of 1% chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabrics using charcoal were the highest with 10%(owb) of charcoal at $90^{\circ}C$ for 120minutes and non-treatment of cotton fabrics were the highest with 15%(owb) of charcoal at $90^{\circ}C$ for 150minutes. Overall, K/S value of 1% chitosan treatment of cotton fabrics on the natural dyeing using charcoal was higher than non-treatment of cotton fabrics. It was observed the surfaces of cotton fabrics treated with chitosan were adsorbed with charcoal powders of particle size more than a non-treated chitosan fabric by SEM. The cotton fabrics were dyed with blackish gray color by charcoal gradually according to treating chitosan. The K/S value, that is indicative of dye affinity, became higher as the increase of treated chitosan concentration. The color fastness of charcoal, washing and light fastness was excellent as 4-5 grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.166-176
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• 2017

This study is fundamental research on how to be able to scientifically quantify and reproduce a natural dyeing procedure. By dyeing silk fabrics, the establishment of a reproducible dyeing method was sought. Juglans mandshurica has been known as one of the most widely used black vegetable dyes. Repetition conditions and combination dyeing were performed with Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts to express a deep black color. Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts were suitable for black coloration and showed a darker black color when combined with iron mordant. Specifically, Juglans mandshurica cortex and clove can be used for deep black coloring. Color fastness when washed or dry cleaned was found to be strong with a grade of 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at a 3-4. The grade of color change when exposed to rubbing and perspiration was good at a 4-5. In regards to functional property aspects, it showed excellent results with a 99% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 97.1% UV protection rate, and 85.9% and 62.3% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pneumoniae, respectively. Therefore, it is considered that the extract from the Juglans mandshurica cortex is of great value as an eco-friendly, natural dyestuff.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.665-674
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• 2014

An analysis of the components of clay mineral before and after coloration (XRF) showed that the elements involved in coloration are Fe, Cr, and Ni. Fe accounts for 65% of coloring components on dyed fabric; in addition, Cr and Ni also affect coloring. The optimal coloration condition was to repeat the process of immersing the cotton fabric in $80^{\circ}C$ slurry of 8g of clay mineral to 1g cotton for 60 minutes, dry it for 24 hours and rinse three times. Especially, as the repetition of coloration increased, the $(K/S)_{440}$ value of sample A increased from 1.0 to 2.5, and sample B increased from 1.0 to 1.6. The effect of the repeated process on coloration was significant; consequently, the rinsing and drying process were important to decrease the coloration level. It also showed excellent results in regard to color fastness to washing, light, rubbing, perspiration, and antibiotic effect.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.195-207
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• 2016

In this study, we examined the influence of the pigment characteristic and dyeing condition on dyeing properties and functionality by using Perilla Frutescens L. Britt extracts, in which ethanol, distilled water and NaOH solution were used as 3 different solvents. Changes in dyeing conditions include variations in dye concentration, dyeing temperature, time and pH on dye uptake, and K/S values were compared according to these changes. Additionally, color changes were observed according to the use and types of mordant. Ultraviolet-visible spectrum was utilized to investigate the pigment characteristic, and as a result, chlorophyll was identified in ethanol extract, whereas tannin was identified both in distilled water extract and NaOH solution extract. By using FT-IR analysis, these tannins in distilled-water-extract and NaOH solution extract were verified to be hydrolyzable tannin. When dyeing silk, dye uptake increased as dye concentration, dyeing temperature and time increased, while it decreased as pH of the extract increased. Fabrics dyed without a mordant produced Y-series colors, and fabrics dyed with mordants showed various colors depending on the mordant types. Even though color fastness to washing and light was unsatisfactory, fastness to rubbing and perspiration showed relatively high grade. Moreover, deodorant ability of dyed fabric improved.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2010.03a
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• pp.167-168
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• 2010

Non coating type Low melting yarn(L/M PET) not to use the polyurethane resin causing some problems was knitting and evaluated its dyeing characteristics, heat setting properties and flame-retardant properties without flame retardant agent or flame retardant fabric. In order to investigate the dyeing property of fabric of L/M PET, the dyeing of L/M PET was experimented at each different dyeing temperature. Higher exhaustion yield was achieved at lower temperature of L/M PET compared to regular PET. According to result of the study for the heat setting properties of L/M fiber, the K/S value of dyed L/M fiber increased as much as the heat setting temperature did. The experiment for the light fastness reached similar result to dyed PET. However washing fastness in L/M fiber showed lower grade compared with regular PET. flame-retardant efficiency of L/M PET without flame retardant agent or flame retardant fabric measured by $45^{\circ}$ burn test and Contact burn test. The flame?retardant performance of the sample was carried out according to the Korea Fire-fighting Standard.[KOFEIS 1001].

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.64-68
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• 1992

The charge-transfer(CT) complexes derived from phenothiazine as donor and quinonoid compounds as accepters were evaluated as coloring matter. Light fastness of the intermolecular charge-transfer(CT) complex dyes as well as absorption wavelength is an important factor when the complexes are applied to coloring matters. The photofading mechanism of CT complex dyes of phenothiazine and accepters were examined. The addition of effective radical scavenger, antioxidant and photostabilizer gave a remarkable enhancement of the photostability of CT dyes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.552-559
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• 2008

Recent days, various inner wears, sheets and interior goods are manufactured using materials dyed with loess emphasizing its improved blood circulation, metabolism, anti-bacterial, deodorizing properties, and far-infrared ray emissions. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabric using loess as colorants. Particle size of loess, the morphology and dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics, and washing durability of loess dyed cotton fabric were investigated. In this study, cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent, epichlorohydrin, in the presence of chitosan to improve the dyeing properties of cotton fabrics with natural dye by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of loess was $1.13{\mu}m$. According to various conditions, the optimum dyeing conditions for cotton fabrics pretreated by 1% chitosan treatment was where 10%(owb) of loess was applied at $90^{\circ}C$ for 120minutes, while for cotton fabrics without chitosan treatment was where 15%(owb) of loess was applied at $90^{\circ}C$ for 150minutes. Overall, K/S value of loess dyed cotton fabric pretreated with 1% chitosan was higher than that of cotton fabrics without chitosan treatment. The Color fastness, washing fastness and light fastness of loess were excellent as 4-5grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.105-112
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• 2017

A string wallcovering is a kind of textile wallcovering which is made of cellulose fiber yarn laminated on base paper. Compared with normal paper or PVC wallpaper, a string wallcovering is preferred continually in the interior design market, as it is not only environmentally friendly but it also has less cost on mass production without the weaving process and has a natural visual effect, excellent functionality such as thermo keeping, permeability, sound absorption. However, in the dyeing process, it is not appropriate to use plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals considering the environmental trend and the government policy plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals. Currently, a string wallcovering is made of raw white yarn and padding with direct dye or pigment which includes toxic elements, especially the use of direct dye is restricted in a part of the developed country due to inclusion of azo. In this study, we researched dyeing based on cold pad batch dyeing of a string wallcovering with reactive dyestuff. The peel strength and bending depth test confirmed that the optimum adhesive type and spread amount improved the water resistance of the string wallcovering. Also, pad batch dyeing with optimum reactive dyestuff enhanced the color fastness to light and rubbing in dry and wet conditions. Additionally, for improvement of color fastness to rubbing in a wet condition, the additional treatment finishing without soaping process which is used water. The results of this study can be used as basic data for environmentally friendly and energy saving of the textile wallcovering.