• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.1052-1063
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• 2007

This study focuses on the analysis of body images appearing in the fashion illustrations since the 1990's and thereby attempts to determine relationship between their expressional features and aesthetic values in reference to theory of post-structuralism. Especially among numerous post-structuralist, Michel Foucault, Gilles Deleuze/Felix Guattari, and Julia Kristeva set unique arguments on body, which provide valuable leads to decipher the image of body. For that reason, body images shown in the fashion illustration are categorized into grotesque body, fragmented body, humanoid body, and post-gendered body, and reviewed their characteristics and aesthetic values based on critics of above three scholars. Findings are summarized as follows: First, image of body entails meaning of an resistance of traditional social concepts and order, and second it serves the purpose of creating a new and unique sense. Finally, it is not an object of representation of physical facts, but rather a representation of the real itself, apart from presenting the original material. Given arguments enhance understanding of images of body in fashion illustration in a broader sense.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.97-111
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• 2023

Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.129-146
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.583-597
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world's four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$", "Intertextuality", "Intermeaning of Meaning", "Dis De Phenomenon". The results of the study were as follows: first, "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$" refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, "Intertextuality" indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, "Intermeaning of Meaning" is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the "Dis De Phenomenon". In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2005

Jazz derived from the blacks' work songs and made the frame of Jazz reaching blues and finally arrived at the recent time propagating itself as not only the blacks' music but all human being's music. This study has a purpose to suggest the Jazz image to the fashion design by examining the historical trace of Jazz which is one of popular music received by hearing sense. As for the result of the Jazz's effects by age, rhythmical beauty stressing dresses were in fashion by dance enjoying women in 1920's and dresses giving a mature atmosphere set the fashion in 1930's. in the beginning of 1990's, newly emerging Jazz was reflected to the popular culture along with the historical mode's fashion in the general society. The design's decided with two themes of Jazz Classic and Neo Fusion to modernly and naturally express the pursuit of strong color contrast which associated fast rhythm and lax image such as the counter melody of smooth Jazz. In that result, Jazz image with auditory feelings could suggest the various design motive and new idea to fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to understanding the intrinsic meanings and aesthetic characteristics expressed by current fashion trends in neckties and to develop a new and unique fashion design for neckties. This study used precedent studies and related literatures to review the changes in neckties and the types of knots used over time. The findings were then verified by photographs from fashion magazines and collections from the 1990s. The results of this study are as follows. First, neckties, generally regarded as a symbol of masculinity, are often mixed with other men's or women's clothing items rather than being worn by themselves, and they provide an androgynous characteristic in women's fashion. This transcendence of femininity or masculinity reflects the human desire to be a more perfect being by sharing each others characteristics, and it can be seen in contemporary beauty trends. Second, neckties have been transformed into scarves, waist belts, front-fly omaments, and so forth. They are used to express a new and sensational sense, the sense of deconstructionism, by breaking away from stereotypes and changing the shape of neckties atypically.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.47-65
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to derive the future-oriented characteristics Sonia Delaunay presented at the time based on the identity and modernity shown in her works and diverse activity. The scope of study spans from 1907 to the start of World War II and includes both applied and fine arts, with a focus on textiles and fashion. The research method is a literary study that includes old documents, exhibition booklets, and explanations from museum curators. The visual materials are actual works observed at exhibitions and digital images of various exhibitions. As a result of the research, she was a practitioner who expressed her identity in marriage, artwork, textiles, and fashion. In order to embody her design and express modernity, she showed geometric and modern motifs and she incorporated a sense of bright color and modernized light into her work by following the principle of simultaneous contrast in color. Additionally, she applied Hungarian embroidery techniques to simple materials and created geometric abstraction with her simultaneous colors, which contributed to both originality and the mass production of textile design. The future-oriented characteristics she presented are the dynamism of modern rhythm, the expansion of convergence and collaboration, the innovation of new production and exhibition, the media of consumer society, and the femininity of modern life. She recognized the mass consumer society and mass production of the early 20th century and actively utilized various media and genres to evoke a dynamic sense necessary for modern life and presented a design to be seen as a modern woman.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.368-383
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to find an expression method for Korean fashion design that can have competitiveness in the global fashion market. For this, fashion specialists at home and abroad were interviewed, focusing on their opinions on the Korean motifs outlined in existing literature studies. First, aesthetic sense and expression characteristics that have appeared in existing studies on Korean art, Korean traditional costume, and Korean fashion were explored. As a result, they were categorized into: Modesty/plainness, freewheelingness, religion/custom, and humor/joke. During this process, Korean design motifs were extracted based on the aesthetic characteristic and expression method of aesthetic sense. According to the opinions on Korean design motifs and Korean fashion design works drawn from the interviews with fashion specialists at home and abroad, Changhomun was the favorite design motif to be utilized in Korean fashion design. The Korean specialists thought that visual design motifs were important, while the overseas specialists had more interest in abstract design motifs, which embody the background and story behind the motif. Regarding the fashion design associated with the Korean design motif, all specialists at home and abroad favored the design using ceramics and wrapping cloth. Regarding the choice of fashion image, Korean specialists chose the design utilizing Hangeul as the most Korean, while the foreign specialists chose designs reflecting the design motifs of Hangeul and Hanbok for women. The Korean specialists chose relatively more Korean images, while the foreign specialists chose more eastern images or other images than Korean images.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.775-782
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the factor of feminization in men's fashion according to Sex Role Stereotype of the viewpoint of 20's$\sim$30's womens. The investigators surveyed 284 women who aged twenties and thirties in pusan. For data analysis, we used Chi-Square Test, Factor Analysis, Reliability Analysis, T-test and ANOVA along with SPSS 12.0 package. The results of this study were as follow: First, the result of sex role stereotype according to vital statistics was difference all of variable accept for age. Androgyny type and man type highly showed in most variable. That was showed the change of Sex Role Stereotype. Second, the result of the factor of feminization in men's fashion according to Sex Role Stereotype of the viewpoint of 20's$\sim$30's womens were identified as 'pursuit of sense', 'pursuit of fashion', 'pursuit of individuality', 'secession of sex role', 'feminity'. Third, the result of the factor of feminization in men's fashion according to The vital statistics was difference with all of variable except for educational level. Forth, the factor of feminization in men's fashion according to sex role stereotype was difference with all of factor except for pursuit of sense'. Specially, 'pursuit of fashion' and 'pursuit of individuality' were important understanded the factor of feminization in men's fashion in Androgyny type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.57-69
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• 2021

This study investigated the influences of experiential marketing components on shopping flow, store satisfaction, and purchase intention in fashion complex culture stores. The mediating effects of shopping flow and store satisfaction were also explored in the relationship between experiential marketing components of fashion multi-tasking culture stores and purchase intention. An online survey was conducted with male and female shoppers between the ages of 20 and 30 in Shanghai, China who visited fashion multi-tasking culture stores. Data from 165 participants were analyzed employing SPSS 24.0 and AMOS 24.0. There were several meaningful results of this study. First, the analysis of the subdimension of experiential marketing components (Sense, Feel, Think, and Act-Relate) clearly showed a factorial construct. Second, the components of experiential marketing showed significantly positive effects on shopping flow and store satisfaction in the fashion multi-tasking culture store. Third, the shopping flow and store satisfaction played important medicating roles in the relationship between experiential marketing components (Act-Relate on shopping flow, Sense and Act-Relate on store satisfaction) and purchase intention. The results suggest that experiential marketing components with shopping flow and store satisfaction should be promoted among Chinese consumers to enhance purchase intentions in fashion multi-tasking culture stores.