• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.326-338
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• 2007

This paper examines the works produced from 2000, the first year of the new millenium, to the late 2006 with a focus on those of Jean Paul Gaultier, a representative designer of deconstruction, in an effort to determine the aesthetic characters of deconstructional fashion. In this context, this paper deals with the theoretical study on the concepts and features of deconstruction as a part of analysis into its fashion using the works of Gaultier as a major source viewed to typically demonstrate the deconstructional characters of fashion. For this purpose, a survey was conducted to 155 works of Gaultier featured from 2001 to 2006 mostly in Vogue, the popular and influencing magazine of the USA(39 pieces in 2001, 30 in 2002, 29 in 2003, 23 in 2004, 12 in 2005 and 22 in 2006, respectively). In particular, 106 fashion pictures were put to analysis as they seemed to represent deconstruction intensively. The deconstructional characters of his works were examined in the categories of difference, inter-meaning, inter-textuality and decomposition on the basis of preceding studies, which resulted in the following outcomes: First, difference was found in 38 works out of 106 images, accounting for 36%, the biggest frequency; Second, inter-meaning accounted for 33% with 35 pieces, most frequently next to difference; Third, inter-textuality followed inter-meaning with 17 images or 15% in terms of frequency; Fourth, decomposition was revealed in 16 images in the same ratio of 15% as inter-textuality.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.195-207
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to observe the rapidly changing men's fashion style in the contemporary society and to analyze the features related to the major-subject groups, male university students. This information could be used for clothing companies to plan commodities, divide markets, and develop designs. The results are as follows. First, several opinions were varied among students' majors. For the opinion about the male students focusing on their external appearance, the students from all majors said that it depends on individual preference. For 4 reasons of external appearances, students from all majors frequently said that they should adjust their external appearance for employment. For the opinion about what is considered the most in the purchase of clothing, most of the students considered about the design of the cloth. For the opinion about influences on the purchase of clothing, major of the students were influenced by their friend or colleague. on the other hand, the students from artistic talent and physical education mentioned other opinion that it depends that it depends on situation and own intention is most important. Second, for the question about clothing behavior, with regard to monthly average shopping control expense, the students from all majors mentioned the amount less than KRW 50,000. For the opinion about the number of shopping, most student mentioned once a season. For the opinion about the store to purchase dress, most students mentioned the use of large shopping mall but the students from business administration and economy mentioned the use of discount store. Third, for the question about preferred style and preferred brand, with regard to the opinion about usual style, the students from all majors have worn casual style. For the opinion about the preferred style, most students mentioned casual style. For the opinion about man's accessory wearing, the students from all majors mentioned that it is good and for the opinion about coordination item, most students mentioned bag.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.207-215
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• 2016

This research was designed to analyze the relationship among depression level, body cathexis, and clothing behavioral attributes of middle-aged women. Respondents for questionnaire were middle-aged women aged from 40 to 59. A total of 197 responses were analyzed by SPSS 21.0 through t-test, and factor analysis with Varimax rotation. The results were as following. As older, the portion of depressed group increased. Higher in depression level, her body cathexis decreased, meaning those two valuables have negative relationship. Six clothing behavioral factors were extruded: style pursuit, body shaping, showing-off, comfort pursuit, recreativeness, and consciousness of others factor, which covers both physical and psychological aspects of middle-aged women. The difference between 40's and 50's was significant in depression level, however, not significant in body cathexis and clothing behavioral attributes. Except for weight, body cathexis satisfaction level of 'depressed group' were significantly lower than 'not-depressed group', meaning that psychological factor give a significant effect on body cathexis. 'Not-depressed group' tend to choose her own style and 'depressed group' more likely to be conscious of others and conform to the affiliation group. This finding implies that design and coordination of garments for middle-aged women could be recommended according to the depression level to improve the quality of life.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.133-149
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• 2007

Amid a wave of informatization, the world is allowing diverse exchanges and cooperations in the global village to be promoted. And, a change in the life environment and the consumption pattern allows the key word in distribution revolution called 'online' and 'emotion' to be recalled. As the emotion is being positioned as the trend of the new era, this study has its significance in that even the fashion industry desperately requires the emotion marketing aiming at the artistic value and practicality in fashion and the creation in value-added, and requires the development and utilization plan for diverse VMD programs on the rational dress shop, like the successful case of the trendy shop such as America's large bookstore 'Barnes & Noble.' Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to design and suggest the virtually trendy dress shop as one plan of utilizing VMD, by examining about the fashion business environment and about 'emotion trend' according to the consumer purchase needs, and through researching into the cases of the trendy dress shops with the emotion marketing. The virtual trendy dress shop 'Muse,' which was proposed as its research result, was designed with having the main concept as urban naturalism, which points to the urban and sophisticated coordination, and to the simple personality and rational value, as one method of utilizing VMD in the differentiated dress shop. And, it is desired to be performed the researches on the development and the utilization plan for diverse VMD programs in the dress shop down the road.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1001-1009
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve both the satisfaction and the current sizing system for the school summer uniform focused on middle and high school students. In order to collect the data, a questionnaire was administered to middle and high school students, and 1,153 data were analyzed. For the satisfaction of their school uniform, there were statistical differences in mean of gender in the design(upper garment) and design & activity(lower garment). On the other hand, students' evaluation of summer school uniform was significantly different in the upper garment(textile, design, activity), and lower garment(design, activity) by school age. For the evaluation of sizing fitness, the length and width of the summer upper garment(blouse/shirts) and the length and width of the summer garments( pants/skirts) were statistical differences in mean of gender or sexuality whereas there were significant differences in the summer upper garment(length, width, the length of sleeve, the width of sleeve, armhole) and the summer lower garment(length, width) by school age.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.129-139
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to compare the hairstyles between Korean and Australian women, who have different individual hair characteristics, social backgrounds, and culture from each other. Data were collected through a survey of 208 Australian females and 392 Koreans. Frequency analysis, t-test, and two-way ANOVA were used to analyze the data. The results are as follows: Korean and Australian women maintain a hairstyle for six months or less in most of the cases. They preferred a hairstyle with bang, and the elderly especially a shorter hair length. Choosing their hairstyles depended on such factors as hair length, dyeing, form of face, harmony with clothing, and social status. There was no difference, however, in a preferred hair length. Korean women possessed brown and black hair colors in a descending order, whereas Australians light blonde and brown in a descending order as well. There was a big difference in the preference for a permanent wave. Korean women preferred to give a volume or curl to their hair, while Australians wanted to have a straight hair. According to the study on a hairstyle behavior, it was found that there were differences in fashion and individuality between two countries and also in dependency among age groups, whereas no differences existed in beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.197-202
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• 2007

The femme fatale image presently observable in various fields is reproducing its image through repetitive imitation, change and application, in particular, through 'movies' which have a greater ripple effect on the public than any other mass media by incessantly producing a countless number of images. This study aims to figure out the intrinsic meaning and the characteristics of the image of femme fatale, understand the modern expression of it in movies and finally shed light on its image represented in Korean movies. For this study, the literature and internet materials related to the image of femme fatale in the movie "Sympathy for Lady Vengeance" and the general concept of femme fatale were comprehensively surveyed. The femme fatale image which is represented in this movie is classified into 4 images ; disguise & mystery, retribution & cruelty, enchantment & beauty, salvation & redemption. The findings of this study provide an insight into how the femme fatale image is expressed in movies, the mass media which has a gigantic ripple effect, and provide the momentum to recognize the need and significance of understanding the femme fatale image represented in Korean movies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.128-137
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristic analysis and to date guidance of European high heeled shoes in 18th century. The research was conducted by stylistic analysis of high heeled shoes from literature review and museums resource. 14 comparative study on shoe objects dating from 1600-1790 in the Museum at F.I.T., New York, Museum of Art, Boston and Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York were selected. The result of this study are as follows: (1) The origin and development of high heeled shoes were accomplished by protection, social status and exaggeration of body, decoration and fashion. (2) According to the comparative study of Museum objects and literature, characteristic analysis of high heeled shoes from 1700-20s, 1730-40s, 1750-60s, 1770-89 and 1890-1900 were accomplished. (3) Significant elements of European women's shoes from 18th century that aid dating are identified as the presence of white rand, shape of tongue, heel shape and height, latchat, toe shape, color and materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.833-843
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic of logomark in unisex casual apparel brand. For this study, first 36 unisex casual apparel brands were selected from the Dictionary of Fashion Brand, second analyzed the common word showing in them. Third, the logomark of the unisex casual apparel brand were classified into two types according to the typeface character of the logomark, there were serif typeface, sans-serif typeface. Fourth, analyzed the relationship between the typeface image of logomark and brand concept. The results of the study were following : First, the common word that used the most frequently in brand concept were investigated and the order of common word was reasonable, comfort or natural, practical, modern, traditional and basic. Second, The unisex casual apparel brand used the most frequently the sans-serif typeface that represents the images of simple, modern and active sense in the typeface of logomark. Third, the unisex apparel brands used the most frequently English as brand name among the various languages. Fourth, the unisex casual apparel brands were lanuched mostly except several of them after 1990.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.273-282
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• 2003

Effect of fixation methods and relaxation treatment on the flame retardant(FR) and physical properties of MDPP/HMM treated cotton weft-knitted fabrics were studied. Combination of four different fixation methods - relaxation, swelling agent treatment, pad dry cure fixation, and wet fixation - were applied to flame retardant finish of cotton weft-knitted fabric with MDPP/HMM. As the results, 1. Swelling agent and wet fixation method helps FR agent penetrate the fiber efficiently. Interlock showed relatively higher values of LOI than single jersey. 2. Interlock showed relatively higher values of bending rigidity(B), shear rigidity(G) and coefficient of friction(MIU) than those of single jersey before and after flame resistant treatment. 3. An increase in internal volume of cotton fiber by relaxation treatment increased the bending rigidity(B), shear rigidity(G) and compressional energy(WC). 4. The cotton weft-knitted fabric treated wet fixation, which crossliked FR agent efficiently, showed higher bending rigidity, shear rigidity(G) and lower compressional energy(WC). Retention of swelling ability of cotton weft-knitted fabrics treated with MDPP/HMM, which increased the internal volume of cotton weft-knitted fabric, showed lower bending rigidity.