• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.77-85
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• 2009

In modem society, fashion is used as a means to express oneself. Colors in fashion are regarded as one of the important design elements and play a significant role. Today men's fashion trend represents to adopt diverse silhouettes, colors and various materials. They can choose diverse color for men's fashion. Brown has been popular colors for both man and woman. It usually represents the image of warm, comfort and classic. This research analyzed Brown whose diverse uses had been observed in fashion and the characteristics of Brown the color combinations in men's fashion through men's fashion collection from 2000 to 2008. The characteristics of color combinations with Brown analyzed two color combinations for the top and bottom as follows: First, the hue characteristics of Brown two color combinations were analyzed in men's fashion. Second, the tone characteristics of Brown two color combinations were analyzed in men's fashion. Third, the characteristics of color combinations were analyzed in the Brown top and bottom according to the hues in men's fashion. The Brown color combinations were analyzed according to the 10 hues and achromatic colors. As a result, 10YR was most used in both the top and bottom in F/W and S/S. As for the Brown color combinations of the 12 tones and achromatic colors in the top and bottom, dark grayish was the most used in S/S and F/W regardless of the seasons. The Brown color combinations in men's fashion were analyzed in terms of characteristics. As a result, 10YR and 2.5Y were most used. They were also of the highest frequency in the color combinations of Brown tops and bottoms.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.934-941
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine by which correlation the pluralistic phenomenon in text is functioned in comparison with hair style and fashion in collection. As a result, the pluralistic image in text, which was shown in modern fashion, was indicated to be pluralistic phenomenon by gender, T.P.O, coordination, and material. The pluralistic image in text for hair style can be known to have been indicated to be the pluralistic phenomenon in text for gender and to be the pluralistic phenomenon in text according to material and cultural category. As for a method of this study, it did put limitation on the part that is shown in the fashion collection from 2001 to 2007, analyzed hair-style features centering on photos, which were extracted from style.com, the online site of specializing in fashion, and carried out a literature research side by side with the theoretical background on intertextuality. The analysis in work according to the pluralistic phenomenon in text made it possible for looking at with a new sight differently from the recognition in the past, and opened the potentiality for being able to understand lots of strange representations, which have been impossible so far. The process of imitating and reconstructing each text according to compositional principle led to possibly knowing the necessity of an artist's ability that can implement the originative world.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.259-266
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• 2017

In a contemporary fashion along with the advance of high technology, development of a new material is being increasingly emphasized and the need of creative convergence using a computer is being expanded. As a global designer who appeared through association between Japan and the West, Issey Miyake has been continually pursuing a new challenge and a solution using high technology, leading the globalization of Japanese fashion. This research aims at examining design characteristics of Issey Miyake collection's A-POC showing a new paradigm, that is, an innovative clothing manufacture system to input information on materials, colors and shapes into a textile machine based on the computer program and manufacture a cylindrical fabric for completion of seamless clothing without sewing or cutting. A-POC is evolving continually through the development of new materials including recycled fibers and organics together with diversification of processing technology. Besides, it shows design characteristics including an integrated manufacturing method, autonomy for customers' selection, practicality for comfortable wearing by the majority, environment friendly idea to reduce waste of fabrics and materials and a new presentation through convergence of exhibition concepts of modern art. This research on Issey Miyake's A-POC characteristics is expected to present a role of fashion designers in a new design idea and paradigm of contemporary clothing using high technology.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.171-181
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• 2001

The Purpose of this study first was to establish the concept based on the existing convention theory, and classifies the types of industrial aspect, and cultural and artistic aspects. Based on it, the relative importance of structural elements of the fashion convention industry is analyzed to fashion conventions in the industrial aspect. The research applies Delphi technique, it is applied to experts in the fashion convention industry in two rounds. Re result is as follows ; First, exhibitions and collection of the fashion convention industry are classified into five groups by examining their main types and main targets. Second, in fabric·material exhibitions, the procedure, personnel and communication have relatively equal importance on the whole although facilities are considered most important. in clothing·fashion exhibitions, the procedure has by far a high level of importance unlike others. Third, comparing the second stage importance, it is shown that the event hall, pubic relations, professionalization of personnel, communication between the promoter and supporting organization are most important with a slight difference by type. Fourth, comparing the third stage importance, it is revealed that ten most important factors are the event location, publicity time, the size·number of event halls customer handling , expertise, publicity media, friendliness, facilities, Publicity Publications, and business competence.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.93-116
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• 2013

This paper explored and compared the textile pattern and motive design of fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections. In particular, this study put it focus on textile pattern design of seven fashion design brands such as Roverto Cavalli and Versace, etc., which were collaborated with H&M. The color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern drawing technique were collected from fashion internet sites over the five year period, and then were cross-sectionally examined and compared based on their color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern drawing technique of products between fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections. The analyses showed the following results: First, the similar color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern were found between fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections, in order to show the perspective texture of products to consumers. Second, H&M collaboration brands demonstrated unique textile design of H&M rather than the trendy design patterns. Finally, the textile design pattern used in H&M collection was more restricted in terms of motive expression technique and chromaticity than that used in fashion designers' brands.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2006

In the history of fashion, the category of knitted items was traditionally associated with ordinary clothing products like undergarments and socks. However, in a mere century Chanel has changed that idea by bringing into fashion consciousness items such as sports sweaters, jerseys, and suits, and so it has been necessary to upgrade this notion. As the needs of the times and new inventions have an inseparable relationship, knit fashion was also born with a close relationship with the zeitgeist of the time - the feminine movement, the rise of sports fashion and the world war - adapting itself up to the present time through continuous changes. Most brands are elevating knit from a mere decoration into a collection piece in a large number of collections every year. The number of brands that cannot exist without knit is increasing, such as Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, and so on. This essay is written with the purpose to study the birth, growth and future potential of knit items. The first stage concentrates on the age of knit's appearance (1910s-1930s). Contingent upon the collection of further data, this essay will be continued through the second stage (the 1960s - 1970s) and the third stage (after the 1980s).

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.55-70
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• 2017

This study researched transition process of fur costume from ancient times to 20th century, extracted esthetic characteristics, and then understood how the esthetic characteristics appear in the recent fur collection. The result is as follows. First, magical meaning was revealed on leopard fur that ancient chief priests wore on top of shenti to symbolize immorality and fur tunics to which christian symbol was added in Byzantine. During middle age and the Renaissance, extravagance appeared on sable and amin jackets that the noble decorated to show off their high status. During the rococo age and mid-20th century, sensuality and elegance appeared on the fur dresses that the female body was emphasized. Second, in recent collection, extravagance appeared on over-sized and voluminous fox-coat, sexsuality and elegance were revealed through mink-dresses and jackets with soft touch and gloss that curved-silhouette was emphasized. In addition, practicality and functionality were shown through short length and light, soft material, and activeness was in the mink jacket to which functional elements such as zippers and rubber were added. To pursue uniqueness and fun, fox jackets were made with over-sized vivid green color. Besides, abnormality and vulgarness appeared through the fashion with abnormal and distracted images with ambiguous forms and new processing methods applied.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.806-823
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• 2023

The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the develop- ment of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction's aesthetic features termed 'traditional fusion', 'positive playfulness', 'open communication', and 'multiple inclusiveness'. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang's fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, 'traditional fusion' combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, 'positive playfulness' promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, 'open communication' emphasizes design that combines practicality and creati- vity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, 'multiple inclusiveness' breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.343-353
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• 2003

In this research, the fashion images, which expressed the same theme during the same season in four different fashion collections, were interpreted as emotional characteristics stemming from different factors according to the emotions and images of the regions where the collections were held. The theme, futurism appeared to be hackneyed and oppressive in Paris fashion which emphasized artistic representation of the theme. And futurism appeared to be expressed to be dazzling, unnatural in London fashion which was innovative and avant-garde. And the New York fashion, which accentuated practical, sportive, and elegant styles created active and graceful image about the futurism and the Milan fashion showed the balanced mixture of the three cities' images above. It is interpreted that our domestic fashion consumers think artistic, formative, original, and emotional images as hackneyed and oppressive. On the other hand, they feel comfortable, cheerful, unaffected and graceful about the images that are functional (rather than artistic), sportive, and moderately elegant. And the innovative and avant-garde images like the ones in London collection seem to make people feel unnatural, dazzled, and even depressed. In short, domestic fashion consumers think that the excessive, innovative, original, and formative fashion images appeared I London and Paris are hackneyed and dark rather than artistic, original, or dynamic. On the contrary, the moderate, practical, sportive and elegant New York images and the Milan's which equally showed the three cities' characteristics are regarded as comfortable, elegant, bright, and positive. This result indicates that the fashion market in certain regions seek shared fashion trends and the difference between the regions reflects the different interpretation of fashion themes.