• 패션비즈니스
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.64-75
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• 2024

Clothing is a powerful medium that reflects the environment, situation, and trends of the times. It has been an important subject of semiotic analysis, particularly in East Asia. While Korea, China, Japan, and Mongolia are geographically close, they have each developed unique characteristics in their clothing. These characteristics continue to evolve over time. The purpose of this paper is to explore the modern fashion design characteristics of these four East Asian countries by using the Greimas symbol square. To achieve this, the paper follows a research method consisting of several steps. First, it considers previous studies on the topic. Second, it analyzes fashion collections from Paris, Milan, New York, and London, as well as the Seoul and Cruise collections, from 2013 to 2024. Third, it compares costumes and modern fashion designs of brands known for their East Asian influences. Finally, it applies the framework of the Greimas symbol square to analyze the main elements of dress culture in these four countries and their significance in modern fashion collections. The findings of this study reveal that East Asian costume culture can be summarized into four distinct characteristics in modern fashion. Korea is characterized by "moderation," China by "exaggeration," Japan by "distinctiveness," and Mongolia by "symbolism."

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.97-115
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• 2022

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.793-809
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• 2013

This study examined the trend and aesthetic value of image fashion of the 21st century through empirical case study with image media as fashion communication tool. This research is intended to provide the basic material for both better comprehension of image fashion as emotional medium in the modern fashion and more activated research on interactivity and communication in the fashion communication area by examining how fashion designers deliver their design philosophy, thought and vision via image fashion. For the research method, the theoretical study was realized about image media and fashion communication with focus on related literature and precedent research. Also, the empirical study was performed about image fashion covering 2005 through 2012 by the group of fashion film, fashion animation, and video look-book. Fashion image in the research was developed into various layouts that include the story based or non-story based creative images, many kinds of episode or behind-the-scenes story in the prep course of collection, designer's personal life or product world, or re-cutting course after collection. It also played a communicative role for public relation of new product ad, concept conveyance of seasonal collections, means as online collection to substitute for the existing offline collections, and better understandings of designer or fashion brand. Aesthetic values derived from case analysis of image fashion in the modern fashion of 21st century appeared in the form of trans-boundary as convergence art, fantasy in harmony with virtuality and reality, and interactivity among the humans, image media and fashions.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.89-103
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• 2016

This study examines female new seniors' clothing consumption behaviors, such as their information sources, clothing store selection criteria, and perceived importance of sales associates' attributes, based on their level of clothing involvement. A face-to-face survey was conducted through a market research firm. The subjects of this study were female adults in their 50s and 60s residing in the Seoul metro area (N=197). Significant differences were found in the clothing consuming behaviors of new seniors depending on their clothing involvement(CI). High-CI new seniors tended to place more importance on both personal and non-personal information sources than low-CI new seniors. High-CI new seniors place importance both "merchandise assortment and store atmosphere" and "sales associates and service" when they select stores for clothing than low-CI new seniors. In terms of sales associates' attributes, high-CI new seniors tend to place more importance on customer-orientation than medium- and low-CI groups. Medium- and high-CI new seniors tend to place more importance on appearance than low-CI groups. However, there were no significant statistical differences for professional expertise among the three different CI groups.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권7호
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• pp.173-192
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• 2002

This study is intended to observe the meaning, aesthetic formative characteristics of the human body which is introduced and applied to the fashion design. The analysis of the modern fashion design describing the human body refers to the extracted fashion design which expresses the human body appearing in domestic & foreign fashion magazines as well as publications associated with it and published since 1990. The analysis of the way of expression, the image and the design elements in these fashion design works, has had to formative characteristics in each of the three parts. The pursuit of formative characteristics through simplifying the expression of the human body, uprising of anatomical expression, and metaphorical expression with the help of personification and objectification can be thought of as characteristics of expressing pattern. And the op-art, optical illusion by virtue of pointillism, the use of non-woven molding, and action painting technique can be described as expression tools to recognize the human body. Images are presented in the characteristics of being grotesque, humorous, erotic, futuristic and mysterious. The characteristics of designs are expressed in creative detail, trimming, pattern and accessory using the form of human body itself as an item of clothing tends to show the unity of human body and clothing. The human body in the modern era reflects the post human image as well as its meaning as a medium and tool. It is also perceived as a specific object to be self-conscious of in this reality with the loss of humanity, alienation and the confusion of identity. The analysis of the image and way of expression of human body in the fashion design, and the meaning of human body will play an important role of identifying tole viewpoint about human body as well as prospecting what the human being will be in the future.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.134-148
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• 2008

Methods of delivering products to consumers do not act as less important factor than creative activities to create new product designs. Mobilizing various psychological elements based on human instinct and desire, fashion industry presents a product as an object of envy, gaining viewers' attention. Here, the viewer does not simply take the product as an object to view, but also imagine transformation it will bring. The study of the cause and effects of the interaction, which is found in the relationship between "the viewer" and "what is viewed" is an important factor that needs to be identified in the phase of creation as well as in the aspect of delivery. The relationship between the perceiver and what is perceived features in designs, product advertisements, related articles, and fashion shows in modern fashion, serving as a medium that enables the humans, who must inevitably exist between the two poles such as mind and body, the subject and the object, the ego and non-ego, and the reality and an ideal, to communicate between the poles. Humans cannot do arbitrary acts or make arbitrary selections only as they access to foreign things through instinct, desire, or experienced perception, and they are sometimes positioned passive by things. In the background, as there are human dual characteristics in which they are expressed as the ego and another ego who exists inside of the ego, they not only view an object, but also become an object to be viewed. Many products in modern fashion, as the objects of reciprocal transposition, grow giving illusions to humans. Having a desire for such objects is human's instinct and normal act to keep the life balanced between the reality and an ideal, which is based on the activation of reality function. Furthermore, freely acting rather than ignoring or overcoming the desire may be the act of retrieving one's ownership to the ego.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.114-123
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the visual elements for effectively conveying the make-up method of the Korean history. We will do basic research on language visualization through visual poetry by using a make-up method as a visual expression element. Our research methods consisted of a related literature research, an internet search, and case study methods. The make-up methods of Korean classical make-up through visual poetry consisted of a through literature review. First, make-up methods, cosmetics, jewelry, and hair styles are shown in the classic make-up style of each age. Second, classical make-up visual poetry shows the identity, gender, and character depictions. Third, there were many visual metaphors about the hair types, figures, and hair among the classical make-up methods of each age. I think that this topic is worth researching as an appropriate medium to increase attractiveness. This research is with visual expression elements of the Korea make-up method. This study analyzed the Korean traditional make-up method that expresses and reinterprets visual metaphors. The results of this study can be applied for basic research.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.138-146
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• 2008

Opera costumes are a tangible medium to directly affect how opera singers performed. Therefore, stage costumes have been designed in various ways to reflect intentions of directors. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust" which was played in Sung-Nam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the supporting actors are drawn from this study. Martha wore a grey jacket and a long skirt with slash. Grey suit symbolized chastity but tight long skirt with slash means sexy. Valentin wore military and combat uniforms to express that he was a soldier. The military uniform represented the situation before the war and the combat uniform symbolized the situation after the war. Rather short trousers, a white tweed jacket, purple flower ornament, a light green vest, and a beret were used to express Wagner, who looked ridiculous and always tried to flirt. Overalls, a blue jumper, and a scarlet baseball cap were used to make Siebel look naive and homely. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.265-272
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• 2006

Traditionally exhibition design as been restricted to architectural, interior, and lighting design, but recently it has begun to overlap into environmental, performance, and installation art. Exhibition design also increasingly involves the application of film, fashion, and the new media. In the past, exhibits were arranged and displayed for the visitor to view directly, but with the development of more effective exhibit media a connection has been created between the exhibit and the visitor. However exhibition design has reached the limits of continuous growth without background theory, when now it must take Into consideration the museum's activation and the importance of the exhibition's design. Exhibition design has developed and grown rapidly since the Taejeon Expo in 1993, but it is a difficult development without a theoretical structure. The flow of exhibition design must be systemized, as the systemization of the transition process of exhibition design has not yet been achieved. This study aims to present an arrangement of exhibition design flow, and to investigate the variation factors in the transition process of exhibition design and exhibit medium development, based on the 18 year history of the Independence Hall that introduced the first systematic planning of an exhibition in 1987.