• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1309-1321
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• 2008

Military style is not limited to a single period but represents various image communications related to items, synthetic images and different periodical culture backgrounds. The purpose of this study is to define the communicational function of the military style beginning from the 1st world war up to the modern days, and furthermore explain the characteristics and contents of military styles in different periods by studying the nowadays various symbols of the military style in denotative and connotative aspects. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic paper, and examined masters' and doctors' thesis, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the internet. As a result, first, the military style is a significant fashion code in understanding modern fashion by serving as a strong communication function representing people’s ritual through various image items called the 'military look'. Second, the meaning of the image communication through military look changed throughout the different periods. During the 1st and 2nd World war the military look supported Fascism by serving as a media representing extreme patriotism and at the same time social images like functionalism, women liberation, regulation and saving. During the cold war period it was used by young progressives like hippies and punks to send an opposing message towards war and commercialism. Since then up to the 80s it was a medium representing the ‘new role of women’, who possess same social rights and power as the men. However in the 90s the military style had to go through a paradigm transition period. Since this period it got affected by the post modernism and designers, consumers alike adopted military style to create unique beauty It can also be said that it began to be used as a pure fashion code representing intertextuality. It was rather expressed as a metonymy than a metaphor and combined with elegance and feminine factor, which contrasts to the original military concept, it now represents totally new hybrids such as difference, dissemination and varieties.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.153-162
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to examine the differences in the service quality evaluation on the skill and expert, the shop facilities and atmosphere, the time and access, and the price and benefit of a nail care shop by age, income, spendings of appearance and a nail care, and a regular nail care. The survey was performed with questionnaires and the subjects were was 240 consumers who used the nail care. The data were analyzed by frequencies, F-test, T-test, Factor Analysis, one way ANOVA. The results of the study were as follows: Service quality evaluation were classified four factors- the price and benefits, the skill and expertness, the facilities and atmosphere, the time and access. There were no statistically significant differences in the price and benefits by age, income, spendings of appearance and a nail care, and a regular nail care, but there were statistically significant differences in the skill and expertness, the facilities and atmosphere, and the time and access. The service quality on the time and access was evaluated as high by the consumer in the 30s, with more income, and with high appearance and nail care spendings. The service quality on the shop facilities and atmosphere was evaluated as high by the consumers with high nail care spending. The consumers with a regular nail care evaluated the service quality on the skill and expertness, the time and access, the shop facilities and atmosphere as high.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.14-26
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• 2010

This study aims to investigate how the woman's beauty makeup trend had been changed in 1960s by analyzing the characteristics of woman's make-up in that period. For this study, a lot of documents and papers related to the woman's make-up were collected and reviewed. In particular, to analyze the characteristics of woman's make up trend in 1960s, a lot of women's pictures and makeup-related articles from 143 volumes of woman's magazines such as Yeowon and Jubusaenghwal were collected. Among the 624 pictures, fifty two pictures which were good enough for studying the total face and makeup were used for this study. The period of this study ranges from 1960 through 1969 and the analysis is focused on skin expression, eyebrow, eye shadow, eye line, lipstick, and brusher and through the related articles, the intention and contents of make up. were delivered and found out. The results are as follows. In early 1960s, the woman's make up was characterized by the make up ranging from unnatural and gray skin expression to dense pink skin expression, giving natural and glossy tint onto the skin and in particular putting a bright accent on the eyelid, eye or lip. In the mid-1960s, the make up style expressed skin more naturally, giving more shading on the eyelid, nose and lip, thus having cubic make-up. In the late 1960s, the make up became more refined and harmonized by using colors according to the TPO (time, place and objective) and skin color. The study results show that the women in 1960s pursued the "cute and young looking image" and used the make up to express their images young and cute. In the mid 1960s, the minimalism which pursued the pure and simple make up appeared in US. That trend affected the make up style of Korean women and hence Korean women showed more natural make up style in the mid and late 1960s.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.14-30
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to establish how main characters' mental states are expressed through costumes and makeup by understanding and analyzing the relationship between the costumes and the makeup in the movie "Anna Karenina" and to compare the 19th century Russian costumes. The study methods are a literature review and an empirical case study. The results are as follows. First, the costumes in "Anna Karenina" are a mixture of late crinoline and early bustle style in general. However, the costumes were altered after the actress's movements and acting were considered. Regarding colors, Anna wears a lavender robe as the virtuous wife, a wine-colored robe for love and death, and a white robe for innocence, thus reflecting her mental states; through the colors, her changes of mental state are expressed. Second, the costumes of Alexei Vronsky, are similar in style and colors to those of mid-late 19th century Russian military uniforms. White, blue and black costume colors are used to describe his situations and emotional changes. Third, Alexei Karenin wears 19th century costumes of dark and achromatic colors without decorations, representing his conservative, authoritative character. However, he showshis rage with a wine and red-colored costume at the end of the movie. Fourth, regarding the makeup in the movie, Anna wears makeup of a soft pink-gold color influenced by 19th century naturalism. Male characters express their characteristics with their beards and hair styles. Vronsky's Hollywood mustaches and wavy blonde hair show his charm, and Karenin's chin curtain beard and bald head reveal his conservative character. The costumes of the three main characters in the movie are not very different from 19th century style in general, but mental states and situations are expressed through accessories, and colors maximize all of the effects. Through this research, it is illustrated that the costumes and makeup in a movie can not only express characters' emotional changes but also show the relationships between the characters in different scenes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.37-47
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• 1999

In the 17th century, Europe had changed from medieval feudalistic ages into an absolute monarchy taking Catholicism and absolute monarchism together. On the other hand, Holland achieved prosperity in economy, culture, and arts through gradual enlightment of the people by winning independence from Spain, and religious reformation. The culture dress and its ornaments at the time was led by the governing class such as royal families and its aristocracy in Europe, while Holland, united republic country at the time, brought civil costume nationwide wholly by civil class and its effect to other neighboring countries in Europe. In addition, the origin of modern dress and its ornaments dates back to that time. Moreover, civil-looking dutch paintings found its sources in routine daily life and became realistic. With this respect, in this research, we put our purpose of the research in making a better and more understanding of the modern costume and its ornaments and exploring the spirit of human beings by analyzing dutch civil costumes shown in these artistic works. It is very important that this research is rather renovational comparing with prior ones focused on those of ruling classes. As a result of the research, the distinguished parts of the civil costumes appeares as following beauties. First, functional beauty was respected such as natural waist line, peplum, gather of the skirt and sleeve, apron, head towel were some of the examples to those in their costumes and its ornaments. Second, with respect to humanity under rough natural surroundings and long struggle with outside tribes, humanity of costume was brought by optimistic and even free mind to them. The three quater sleeve showed wrist and deep-cut decollete in their dress and ornaments. Third, with respect to simplicity, religious effect on the leading civil class demanding self-abstinence, frugality, and thrift in their way of life resulted in black-tone simple costumes with white collar in their costumes and its ornaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.57-66
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to design appropriate digital tools for the production of makeup designs. In this study, we used a three-dimensional facial avatar simulation program developed by the Electronics and Telecommunications Research. This study is based on the creation of three-dimensional CG digital art of facial avatar makeup, produced by using simulation technology. First, the actual application and the tools for digital-optimization and media features were created, leading to the research and cleanup. Second, the theoretical background was applied to the formative elements of oriental colors in the designing process. Makeup design elements include point, line, surface, color, and texture. In this study, effective makeup design was interpreted to be based on the representation of particular elements, notably the design principles of balance, proportion, rhythm, repetition, emphasis, contrast, harmony, and unity. In Asia, design is based on the visibility of red, blue, black, yellow, and white-the colors of the five elements-and the use of points, lines, and shapes. This study was recently under scrutiny in relations to digital simulation and various three-dimensional designs, in terms of how to take advantage of a wide range of applications, and how to apply the findings through media and the dissemination of basic research. This study applies the characteristics of the limited existing stereoscopic three-dimensional and digital simulation programs in order to take advantage of the empirical research, providing a basis to implement this research in a meaningful way. A follow-up study is needed to extend these findings and theoretical foundation through continuous observation and in-depth technical development and research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.207-217
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• 2012

The function of the school uniform is to represent the role of a student and also to restrict the scope of action for the student. Many students wear school uniforms for the most of their daily life. So the school uniform is very important for students during the school days. The purpose of this study was to suggest the fundamental information for the development of the school uniform design based on actual wearing conditions and preferred designs. Photos of school uniforms of 61 girls' high schools in Seoul were analyzed. Surveys of actual wearing conditions and preferred designs were investigated. The major conclusions of the study were as the following: 1. Most of the high school girls wore the uniform jackets that had tailored collars, were single breasted, slightly fitted, and that have a medium length between the waistline and hipline. Many students wore skirts with various pleats and knee length. Many school uniforms were navy blue and grey. 2. Many students bought ready-to-wear school uniforms from agencies with their parents. When they bought the school uniforms, they tried it on and confirmed the sizes on their own. However, since they didn't know the size systems, and they had to repair the size and design of the school uniforms. Students felt uncomfortable with how the shoulders and sleeves fit. 3. Uniform Jackets with tailored collars, single breasted, slightly fitted, and a short waistline length were preferred. Pleats skirts with knee length or upper-knee length were preferred. Navy blue and grey colors, and elastic fabrics were preferred. 4. When comparing the actual wearing conditions and preferred designs of school uniforms, there were a few differences in styles, but overall, students preferred shorter lengths of jackets and skirts. It is considered to reflect the fashion trends and the students' pursuit for beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.44-59
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• 2013

The modern people do express their personalities by appearance and actively use the appearance as the social tools, and the attractive appearance largely does influence the human relationship. As the appearance's importance is being magnified, the attractive appearance and favourable impression is an important standard for job performance and social position, and used as the way to reach the social goal. This study does investigate the design's kind and character of the beard which belongs to the male exclusive property and compare the differences of the impression's formation according to the beard design. The empirical results confirmed that the male beard design formated the various impressions according to the designs and their mutual relationship existed. Therefore, the beard is a symbol of maleness and an expression for the social position and personal character, whereas it possesses the very important meaning as the influencing factor on the impression's change. First, the pre stimuli were finished through the pre survey for composition of questionnaire in order to evaluate the impression after selection of experimental models and beard types for measuring instruments. Second, sixty three university students were surveyed by pre stimuli and questionnaire as pre experiment, and afterwards the measuring instruments and experimental design were revised. Third, the stimuli completed (nine beard designs) were intentionally well distributed as questionnaire by sex and ages in Seoul metropolitan and her environment. and the factorial analysis and the coefficient of Cronbach's ${\alpha}$ for reliability test were completed for questionnaire's validity using SPSS/PC+ Window Ver. 12.0.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.71-86
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.