Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.9
no.3
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pp.1-17
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2007
This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.
Modern furniture design is advancing by putting value on individual sensitivity. Accordingly, this study will focus on optical art, which can give various changes in people's sensitivity. Optical art was actively applied in various fields of image, photograph, fashion, textile, accessory and interior from the 1950s till the 1960s. Optical art realized by Victor Vasarely (1908~) opened a new trend in art by accurately realizing concise and precise expressions. This study analyzed the impact of pattern expression on sensitivity in optical art and suggested a method, which can spatiotemporally maximize the emotional change by combining optical art with the form of furniture. Modern furniture design is changing toward the direction of fitting to the propensity and emotional taste of an individual. Accordingly, this study analyzed the emotional expression felt in the furniture modeling works featured by concise, straight and standardized rectangular shape. Based on the result of analysis, this study would like to suggest a method to utilize optical pattern as a means for emotional design, with which people are able to perform various emotional expressions while keeping the function and form of furniture.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.30
no.6
s.154
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pp.840-850
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2006
This thesis that is written by inquiring the shoes of 1990's, is written in order to propose the method of analyzing the changes of shoes design systematically. The picture to be gathered was a content analysis low at ARS and Accessory Collegioni since though the research method took shoes to $1990{\sim}1999$. I categorized the design factors into shape, material, color, decoration. by using those category, the result of analysis of design character. In 1,990's, boots, pumps and straps were the most popular in upper, point and rounded cuban and french were the most popular in toe, leather was the most popular in materiel, suede in F/W and patent in S/S. Black was the most popular color, brown in F/W and white/beige in S/S were the second. Re-created shape that was constructed through the reconstructions of structures and shapes of shoes, shape that was expanded to other genre were appeared in character of design factor. Material image was strengthened by varying patterns of unburned calf, leopard and zebra. Recognition of shoes color was expanded by using unique colorations and abstract, fresh figure colors. Post-modem tendency was appeared like using brassiere strap instead of back strap or using round string in elegant shoes.
Here, we report isolation of multiple long non-coding RNAs (lncRNAs) expressed tissue-specifically during murine embryogenesis. One of these, subsequently came to be known as Redrum, is expressed in erythropoietic cells in fetal liver and adult bone marrow. Redrum transcription is also detected during pregnancy in the spleen where extramedullary hematopoiesis takes place. In order to examine the function of Redrum in vivo, we generated a gene-targeted murine model and analyzed its embryonic and adult erythropoiesis. The homozygous mutant embryo showed no apparent deficiency or defect in erythropoiesis. Adult erythropoiesis in bone marrow and in the spleen during pregnancy likewise showed no detectable phenotype as red blood cells matured in normal fashion. The phenotype is in contrast to the reported function of Redrum in vitro, and our observation implies that Redrum plays in vivo an accessory or supplementary role whose loss is compatible with normal erythropoiesis.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.9
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pp.1386-1397
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2009
This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.
In the 21st century, the demand for eco-friendly leather, such as eco-leather and vegan leather, is steadily increasing. This study examines the influence of eco-friendliness on consumers' purchasing intentions and the possibility of eco-friendly changes in the fashion accessory market, which is dominated by leather material and leather substitutes. This study administered a questionnaire survey to 227 males and females between 20 and 60 years of age in Korea. With a 5-point Likert scale, data were collected on evaluation criteria when purchasing shoes and bags and purchasing intention of various leather substitute materials according to the democratic variables. The eco-friendliness attitude was divided into eco-consciousness and green behavior. As the eco-friendly attitude increased, most purchasing standards increased, but the purchasing criteria, such as trends, brands, and prices, did not correlate with the eco-friendly attitude. The eco-consciousness of a consumer had a high correlation with the design evaluation criteria, while the green behavior of the consumer aligned with durability and comfort criteria when purchasing a bag. There was a preference for recycled leather, vegetable leather, synthetic leather, and chemical leather, and the fabric type was ranked as natural fiber, biodegradable fiber, and synthetic fiber. Consumers with both green behavior and eco-consciousness are more likely to purchase biodegradable textiles and vegetable leather for the material of shoes and bags.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.48
no.3
/
pp.576-595
/
2024
Bracelets have enjoyed extensive use among the Chinese since antiquity as decorative pieces credited with warding off evil forces and inviting auspicious fortune. This study aims to integrate traditional cultural elements, such as Yuan blue and white porcelain flower patterns, into modern design using 3D printing technology to create culturally inspired bracelets. To this end, bracelet designs from the top four museums on Taobao were examined. In addition, we analyzed online reviews of culturally themed bracelets using text mining and applying FEA criteria and found that Chinese consumers are easy to wear and sizable, enhance cultural pride, and drive the demand for artistically sophisticated bracelets. The research culminates in the development of a modular bracelet design inspired by flower motifs from blue and white ware of the Yuan dynasty, with an emphasis on iterative improvements based on reviewer feedback. The final design meets consumers' expressive and aesthetic needs while also maintaining cultural integrity and functionality. The aim of the study is to inspire pride in traditional culture, provide insights for fashion accessory industries, and promote the national image through the development of culturally inspired products.
The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to designing a scientific and systematic merchandising program for infants' wear brands. For this purpose, designer and MD working for 8 local infants' wear brands were surveyed to analyze the conditions of their designing and merchandising of infants' wears. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Only 3 brands employed MD for their merchandising departments. The average number of clothing designers employed by the subject brands was 3-5, while that of colorists was 1-2, and that of accessory designers was 2-3. On the other hand, the average number of patternmakers employed was about 1, while that of sewer was 4. 2. Many of the sample infants' wear brands tended to collect and analyze the information for merchandising, while most of them relied less on outside planned data. The information source upon which they relied most was 'local and foreign fashion magazine', followed by 'data surveyed by local and foreign department stores' and 'data surveyed for local fabric markets' in their order. Meanwhile, the main color represented 70-90% of the total colors, while the pastel groups accounted for 30-40% and vivid color groups for 40-50%. On the other hand, knit accounted for about 60% of their materials, while woven and sweater accounted for 30% and 10%, respectively. 3. In overall terms, most of brands felt that their brands were preferred as much as or less than their competitive brands, while consumers felt expensive for infants' wears. Namely, most consumers were dissatisfied with the price levels of infants' wears. On the other hand, consumers were found to favor the pastel color groups a little more, while being aware of each brand's sizes more or less precisely. 4. The medium upon which the infants' wear brands depended most for their advertisement was 'magazine', followed by 'radio' and 'catalogue' in their order. Most of them were analyzing the results of their sale turnover monthly or frequently in order to review their sales performances in comparison with their competitors. Most of brands bothered to program a sale strategy 4 times a year, primarily to dispose the stocks or find a breakthrough for their sales activities.
This study clarifies that Scytian waistband had flowed into the Jeoseon Dynasty, and it was settled down to saezodae(which is male belt) and norigae(which is female accessory) and pocket in the Joseon Dynasty. Historical records and relic materials are examined and analyzed by quality assessment. 5 experts performs sensory evaluation for 17 pictures of Scytian waistband, and 42 of norigae, 24 of pocket, 6 of small knife, 11 of belt in the Joseon Dynasty, and finally similarity in form and purpose of use between both of them are come out. Research results are summarized as follows: First, Scytian waistband made with leather and metal was carried in the girdle. Men in the Joseon Dynasty carried various forms of belts as position and jobs such as saezodae, kwangdahae, dongdahae, doa. Trinkets of hopae, jangdo, pocket, etc. are put on belt or separately attached. Belt was not put on the women dress, but more various trinkets were used than those on men dress. Norigae, pocket, and jangdo were used practically and decoratively. Second, The types of Scytian waistband were excavated from the tumulus in the age of three states in Korea, and their form and function are same. Belt of the Joseon Dynasty carried below their chest and up navel, of which the wearing position went upper than before. As women jeogori was shorter, their belt is not necessary and various trinkets were put in their skirt. Finally, this study conclude that Korean traditional belt and trinkets come down from Scythian waistband.
This study attempts to identify the self-image of eyeglass wearers with Q-methodology. Preliminary Q-statements were collected through personal and telephone interviews and based in consultation with reference books, eyeglass wearers, an optician and an oculist. Finally, 34 Q-samples were seleted. The results were analyzed by a Q-factor with a PC QUANL Program. The self-image of eyeglass wearers were found to revolve around three types: Type 1. They feel that eyeglasses have a negative influence on image and that they uncomfortable. In addition, other people have a negative bias toward people who wear eyeglasses. As a result of these negative prejudices and inconveniences, there is a tendency to wear contact lens or have laser operations. Type 2. They feel less uncomfortable comparatively, when explained that glasses can help improve their image. When explained as a fashion accessory, negative prejudices almost disappeared. Type 3. They show a positive reaction when explained that spectacles are also used for sight protection. Howerer, they are sensitive to changes in their complexion as a result of eyeglass wear and place much importance in the design of glass frames. The significance of this study is to suggest basic data for a mediation device that improve the image of eyeglass wearers discovery and analysis of these three types.
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