• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.61-73
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• 2018

Power is the driving force of society, and the generation of power is inevitable. as long as society is rganized hierarchically. According to Michael Foucault's discourse modern power operates as a mechanism of 'panopticon', a system that monitors the 'body' of man through discipline. Moreover. fashion as acts as a symbol of beauty that continues to co-exist with power for the purpose of exposing status and authority, and for displaying the trends within a culture. So, it is necessary to study fashion design according to the changing power structure that exists in society. The aim of this study is to suggest types of creative fashion design process by visualizing the Foucault's power discourse through the image associative action. The four types of creative fashion design that have been drawn by visualizing Foucault's power discourse are as follow: disciplinary power, imprisonment power and knowledge power. The first type of fashion design method is to emphasize the shoulder by using shoulder pads, strings, tabs, and incisions in the clothing. The second method is to expose the body by using see-through material and manipulating its composition to expose the body. Third method is to borrowing elements of underwear. Fourth method is to utilize patterns that represent power, such as weapons, bones, blood, muscles, skulls, and various human imagesin the clothing. Through this study we expect to utilize creative fashion design to visualize concepts of the humanities, such as philosophical discourse.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.93-101
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• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.1019-1029
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• 1999

In order to find out the influences upon not only the thermal resistance of human body but also the clothing action and the clothing weight which are caused by the differences in the thermal living conditions by using air conditioner and so on to adapt themselves to the changes of their residential environment according to the changes of seasons we investigated the clothing practices upon the male and female students in Seoul and Korean male and female students in Yanbian who are estimated to have different thermal living conditions in spite that they are same folk as well as living in the same age. 1. The total clothing weight of body surface erea was increased in order of summer autumn spring and winter seasons and by seasons the changes of the clothing weight were found in both areas, In Seoul the changes of upper outwear clothing weight were found on both sexes but in Yanbian the changes of underwear weight were found on both sexes. And the underwear weight of both sexes in Seoul was lighter than that of both sexes in Yanbian. 2. Those in Seoul tended to fell colder in winter and hotter in summer than those in Yanbian on account that the formers are more sensitive of thermal conditions than the latters. 3. Comparing clo-value claculated by the fomula of with the Winshlow's clo-value those in Yanbian had higher thermal resistance than those in Seoul. Consequently those in Seoul adapted thermselves to the seasons by controling the upper outwear weight but those in Yanbian did it with underwear weight, The male and female students in Seoul tended to feel colder in winter and hotter in summer than hose in Yanbian because the thermal sense of the former is more sensitive than that of the latter.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1309-1321
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• 2011

Clothes for a 3 to 6 year-old toddler should be made in consideration of their behavioral characteristics since it is when the physical ability of toddlers has rapidly developed and their social, emotional, and cognitive development are increasingly active. Indoor clothes are the item that consumers prefer because they provide the function of outside underwear when functioning as outerwear when indoors that is used frequently for toddlers. We analyzed the wearing condition and the uncomfortable aspects of toddler's clothes worn indoors through consumer surveys of toddler wear. This study gathers data for the development of indoor clothing that is useful for 3-6 year old toddlers. Consumer surveys indicate that the clothes most worn indoors were underwear (69.4%). The most important aspect in the selection of indoor clothes was the suitability for activities (29%). The preferred colors for indoor clothes were found to be pastel-tone colors (66%). Regarding the uncomfortable aspects of indoor clothes, knees of the clothes (36.8%) have the most naps and the breast of the clothes (37.8%) dirty quickly. Knee parts (35.4%) become worn easily; in addition, the material for the knee area is likely to have naps and require special functions. In conclusion, designing toddler clothing requires elaborated design techniques that consider the characteristics of the subject group and reduce inconveniences. This study will serve as preliminary data to develop ultimate products that have the functionality to meet gender behavior characteristics and the aesthetics for toddlers 3 to 6 years of age.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.954-960
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• 2014

This study surveyed high school girls in the Busan, Ulsan, and Gyeongnam areas to study how they wear school uniforms along with their satisfaction levels and demands in regards to functional school uniforms. This study presents data on the requirements for the development of winter school uniforms for high school girls with improved warmth functions. The findings are: First, high school girls purchased school uniforms of different brands and the purchase rates for three brands were 25% to 30% approximately. Most of them spent more than 300,000 KRW and less than 400,000 KRW on school uniforms purchases. Second, the greatest complaints by students about winter school uniforms were the ability to conduct routine activities and poor thermal insulation. The most popular bottom underwear for girls was underpants and leggings. The most popular top underwear was half-sleeved round neck t-shirts and running shirts. Third, a survey about uniform functionality showed that most students used and 'arm pit sweat absorbing pad', 'Waist size adjusting function, and 'inside pockets with zippers'. Satisfaction with functional uniforms was low: less than 3.5 in all questions. Fourth, students were favorable to develop functional uniforms to keep warm in the winter. The bottom needs to be warmer than the top and it is necessary to keep legs warm, especially the thighs and calves.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.255-268
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• 2011

This study carefully explored today's preferable beauty images, analyzed Korean adult purchasing trends of functional underwear and market analysis of the most popular items and their designs. Information and methods are based largely on reference book material as well as analysis of real domestic data. The paper's research timeline simply spans the last three years, as in accordance with project parameters. Helping improve body shape, foundation literally means 'substructur' and 'base'. The formativeness in these adult foundations typically has three main category classifications. First, natural modern image. This is where we find natural beauty including that which embodies a cool modern sense. Here, you can often see such patterns as either stripes and dots, or simply no patterns at all. Colors are green, red-brown, incarnadine, or khaki from a natural or basic human body color. Its products are marketed as both solid and durable eco-friendly materials, and lace-seethrough. Fashion's natural modern image is undoubtedly the most popular style purchase choice among both genders. Second, sweet romantic image. This mainly consists of two concepts : a sweet and romantic theme, and visual appeal. Patterns include flowers, lips, heart, stars, candies and various other appealing characters. Its main colors are pink, yellow, red, purple, and violet. Products are decorated with laces, frills and ribbons. Since only men's semi-girdles carry such designs, this fashion foundation is largely a women's world. While men show an obvious interest in foundation, they still mostly prefer the choice of natural modern images. Third, mystic sexy image. This is defined as all feminine images of mysterious and classic sexual beauty. Patterns are variously expressed as paisley, flowers, and geometric. Colors are largely purple, blue-green, royal-blue, cobalt, and black. Products are commonly decorated with beading, spangles, hot-fixes and so on. While this image can be found in all kinds of women's foundations, it typically appears only in men's corsets and girdles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.26-38
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• 1998

This paper is based on a survey of consumers 'opinions on underwears. The questions in the survey dealt with what materials were used to manufacture underwears, which underwears were worn together in combinations, and how comfortable underwears were. In addition, the respondents were asked about how many pieces of different underwears they posses. Through such research, this paper aims to provide a guide to manufacturing domestic underwears that are competitive against foreign bands. 336 women in their twenties, thirties, forties and fifties from Seoul and it's suburbs were surveyed. Statistical analysis was performed by calculating the average, frequency and standard deviation, and through one-way analysis and the Duncan test. The following are the results of the study : 1. Consumers were moderately satisfied with Korean-made underwears. In order to complete with foreign brands, products with high consumer-satisfaction levels must be produced. 2. Upper garments usually consisted of brassieres with shoulder straps and sleeveless shirts. For lower underwears, most people tended to wear panties under girdle, with garlets on top. This is most likely the resut of more people wearing slacks than skirts. 3. Consumer in their twenties had anaverage of 1.71 slips, while those in their thirties had 3.07, those in their forties and 3.25, and people in their fifties had 3.88 slips. Thus the number of slips a consumer possesses increases as age increases. for socks, people in their twenties had 7.4 pairs on average, those in their thirties had 5.5, those in their forties had 6.7, and those in their fifties had 5.3. Thus, those in their twenties possessed the most number of socks. Consumers in their twenties also had the largest proportion of socks among all the types of hosiery combined, with 47.1% of their hosiery being socks. 4. Consumers did tend to prefer cotton underwears, but according to the type of underwears, producting using mixed fabrics of cotton and synthetic fibers were also frequently worn. 5. The shape and form of underwear that consumers prefer in a ceratin time frame varies according to the latest fashion in outer wear. Therefore, planning design of underwear products by predicting the future trend of outer wear fashion is necessary.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.29-47
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• 1995

Today, we live in the fastly changing society, rapidly developing scientific civilization and repeatly confusing political culture. Therefore, man persuits the emotional rest in "eros" and sympathizes with eroticism. Such an eroticism represents too much in art and costume all over the world. the purpose of this study is to classify the ex-pressive style of eroticism which is the feature of the costume in the first year of 1990's and to analyze its expression meaning. This study will be a basic data of new design development and help predict the costume in the latter half of the yeat. The method of this study was performed by using the literature related to the eroticism and the study of preceeding researchers. To analyze the costume style the its implied meaning being used to express the eroticism of 1990's, the magazines(Elle, Vogue, WWD, Collections etc) and the literatures related to fashion were used. The styles and meaning of eroticism expressed eroticism by using the minimal design which exposes wholly or partly by using a transparent vinyl and a see-through clothing. The sexy style arose from the expression of social rebellion and the exposure of suppressive sex as a psychological repulsion against the older generation. 2) Deshabille style : This style is the conver-sion to the outer garment of an underwear. The excessive exposure which just concerns the inti-mate parts of the body by using the thin cloth or lace for an underwear. This style can be recognized as the beauty destruction and ugly 3) Glamour style : The style is made up of the high-grade cloth such as silk and velvet and expresses the bodily beauty. This style falls into a rebellious culture and comes from the inten-tional expression to escape the modern life which is straight and hard. 4) metallic style : This style uses variously the new material such as vinyl-coating, enamel and represents the eroticism through the original expressions.pressions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.141-150
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• 2015

The present study was undertaken to evaluate effects of eco-friendly underwears(three kinds of natural dying underwears) in patients with atopic dermatitis. We recruited 45 patients with atopic dermatitis admitted to Dongshin Oriental Hospital from August to September 2013. These patients were divided into three groups (A, B and C). Each group include 15 patients and three kinds of natural underwears dyed with polygonum tinctorium, loess, and non-dyed general cotton were given, respectively. We also used SCORAD index and digital infrared thermal imaging to investigate the effects of each eco-friendly underwear in patients with atopic dermatitis. In SCORAD index, Group A after wearing loess-dyed underwears for 4 weeks showed statistically significant reduction to 27.96 (P<0.05) compared to 34.20 before wearing loess-dyed underwears. In Group B after wearing polygonum tinctorium-dyed underwears for 4 weeks, SCORAD index and objective severity assessment were markedly reduced into 22.97 (P<0.01) and 18.17 (P<0.01) compared to 35.95 and 27.89 before wearing polygonum tinctorium.-dyed underwears, respectively. In Group C after wearing general cotton (non-dyed) underwears for 4 weeks, there was statistically no difference in SCORAD index, objective severity assessment and body temperature between before and after wearing general cotton (non-dyed) underwears. Taken together, polygonum tinctorium-dyed underwears used to patients with atopic dermatitis shows significant amelioration in atopic symptoms than loess-dyed underwears as well as general cotton (non-dyed) underwears.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.28-45
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• 2005

La $d{\acute{e}}marche$ et l'objet de cette recherche sont d'analyser, psychiquement, biologiquement, les marques de $l'intersexualit{\acute{e}}$ $pr{\acute{e}}sentent$ en Occident et les elements intersexuels, binaires dans le $v{\hat{e}}tement$, et ${\acute{e}}galement$ de comprendre $l'ambigu{\ddot{i}}t{\acute{e}}$ ou encore la fusion des $identit{\acute{e}}s$ $sexu{\acute{e}}es$. qui $pr{\acute{e}}sente$ symboliquement ${\grave{a}}$ travers le $v{\hat{e}}tement$, dans la $soci{\acute{e}}t{\acute{e}}$ moderne. $Malgr{\acute{e}}$ tous les points communs et $diff{\acute{e}}rents$, la base fondamentale dans les $th{\acute{e}}ories$ de I'Occident est que tout individu est psychiquement, biologiquement en quelque sorte un intersexuel qui s'ignore, avec des variations selon l'individu. En $d{\acute{e}}finitive$, les compositions doubles des ${\acute{e}}l{\acute{e}}ments$ dans le $v{\hat{e}}tement$ occidental montraient $embl{\acute{e}}matiquement$ nos $qualit{\acute{e}}s$ doubles, masculins et $f{\acute{e}}minins$, et les trois ${\acute{e}}l{\acute{e}}ments$ semblent primordiaux pour $l'{\acute{e}}lucidation$ de la $pr{\acute{e}}disposition$ du porteur : la couleur du tissu, sa texture et la forme du $v{\hat{e}}tement$. La mode d'aujourd'hui bascule entre masculin et $f{\acute{e}}minin$. Cette fusion de la mode semble le reflet d'une tendance intersexuelle et d'une fusion du genre.