• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.5
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• pp.444-454
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• 2001

The purpose of this paper was to identify and compare the underlying design theory of contemporary European and Japanese fashion designers by using the qualitative research method of grounded theory developed by Glaser and Strauss (1967) and Glaser (1978). In this research, four fashion sites-Paris, Milan, London and Tokyo-were selected. The researcher stayed in each site for a period of two to three weeks for the purpose of data collection. A total of 60 fashion designers, educators, students and journalists were interviewed. 53 open-ended design questionnaires were returned by fashion designers and students. 19 on-site observations of fashion designers and educators were done. Grounded theories of fashion designers were synthesized from in-depth interviews, participant observations and questionnaire surveys of fashion designers, students and educators. The results of theory-building research suggested that there were significant differences between the grounded design theories of European and Japanese fashion designers due to their various cultural contexts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.584-597
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• 2014

This study verified the 'Hemline Index' theory by George (1926) and established a new fashion theory frame to forecast future fashion cycles of skirts by analyzing the past fashion cycle of skirts through a diachronic method. Skirt pictures from 1980-2013 (the post-industrialized period of Korea) were analyzed and representative skirt styles, the fashion cycle of skirts and relation between skirt style, length, width and stock index were identified. A total of 1496 pictures in fashion magazine published over 34 years were selected and analyzed using PASW 18.0. The results were: For 34 years, representative skirts styles were mini skirt, midi skirt and long skirt. Fashion trend cycles of skirt length decreased for 10 years and the fashion cycle showed a trend to shorten. Skirt length & stock index related negatively and skirt length & skirt width related positively. All relations revealed significant results. Finally, the 'Hemline Index' theory of George (1926) was verified. Fashion marketers can develop successful and suitable products using a fashion cycle theory based on the results of this study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.579-594
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• 2014

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late $20^{th}$ century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.585-593
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• 2005

Diverse and complicated trends of fashion design which were initiated at the latter part of the 20th century have been evolving in the cultural framework of Postmodernism. At this point of time, Poststructuralism, with its aims to interpret and understand modern fashion design, is a new system of thinking that reveals the contradictory aspects of rationalistic Western philosophy and accepts uncertainty and disorder as they exist. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, analysis of theories and analysis of contents. By probing and examining deconstruction theory, 'I'-other theory, textual theory, and nomadic thinking, the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism. The theoretic foundation for this analysis and classification is supplied by Derrida's deconstructional philosophy, Lacan's mental analysis, Bartes's textual theory, Deleuze's change and generation theory, together with other theories of Poststructuralism. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1178-1192
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to develop the fashion coordination course. The first step of this study is to set up the concept of fashion coordination. And the second step is to organize the fashion coordination course depending on the concept of fashion coordination. The concept of the fashion coordination is as foltowed: The goal of the fashion coordinapion is 'making the image' The image in this study is constituted of several concepts, which are perception/conition/impression, bojective/person perception, external/internal content, and simple/complex level. The elements of fashion coordination are the person, the clothing and the accessory. The method of making the image with elements is to harmonize the symbolic aspect of elements, and the beauty aspect of elements too. The fashion coordination course is organized into theory part and practice part. The theory part is composed of theories of 'making the image', the elements, the harmony depending on the concept of fashion coordination. The practice part is composed of exercises to make the image depending on the theory, especially the important point of exercise is Listing the clues that make the image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.273-294
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• 2020

Considering the complex relationship between fashion curating and the critical approach of fashion exhibition reviews, this study explores the current state of fashion criticism in museology, focusing on fashion designer exhibition reviews of Fashion Theory. The author selected eighteen exhibition reviews of individual fashion designers' works from 1997 on to the current 2020 issues of Fashion Theory, which provides an interdisciplinary forum to analyze fashion as a cultural construction. The author performed a systematic review that qualitatively summarizes and/or synthesizes the findings of the studies on the topic with the process of a systematic review, such as key question formulation, analytic framework building, evidence mapping, critical appraisal, and evidence synthesis. The results of this study are as follows. First, the exhibition reviews included almost all stages of the inclusive fashion criticism model, based on an artifact study. Second, they reflected various critical discourses that offered current interpretations of historical and contemporary fashion. Third, they showed that fashion criticism in the museum context is the result of an interdisciplinary collaboration of various fashion agents. Finally, they offered a bridge for crossing the boundaries of various scholarly fields, as they combine multidisciplinary scholarship with object-based methods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.786-798
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• 2013

This study establishes a fashion theory frame to forecast future fashion cycles of pants through analyzing past fashion cycles of pants through a diachronic method. Pants pictures from 1967-2012, post-industrialized period of Korea were analyzed. Representative pant styles, fashion cycles of pants and the relation of pant styles, length and width were identified. The total of 1006 pictures in fashion magazine published over 46 years were selected and analyzed using PASW 18.0 (statistical program). The results are as follows. For 46 years, representative pant styles were skinny, regular and bell-bottom. The first cycle period was from 1969 to 1992 and lasted 24 years. The second cycle period was from 1993 to 2003 and lasted 11 years. The third cycle is ongoing as of 2004. Fashion cycles have shown a general trend to be shortened. The relation between pant styles, length and width revealed related results; in addition, pant length and width changed significantly in a similar orientation. Fashion marketers can develop successful products using fashion cycle theory from these results.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.349-357
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• 2016

As a solemn and serious uniform, military uniform can be differentiated easily from any other clothing in the aspects of color, material and style. Inspired by military uniform, fashion designers have been applying military uniform elements into modern fashion design in recent years, which helps to bring military uniform from the trench onto international fashion runway. The primary method of this research is theory analysis method and exampling study method. Based on the collected materials of modern military uniform, this paper takes the fashion and cultural study theory of the famous American scholar Susan B. Kaiser as the leading theory to analyze four subject positions embodied in military uniform, including nation, rank, gender and time and space. By analyzing the subject positions embodied in military uniform, it shows the rich cultural connotation of military uniform and the function of various small details. Meanwhile, by giving specific examples, this paper explores the influences of military uniform on modern fashion design in respect to color, style, material, pattern and accessory. Through the conduct of this research, it comes to the conclusion that military uniform also has the characteristics and properties described in the fashion and cultural theory of Susan B. Kaiser, in addition, designers can be inspired by every specific object around them, which shows the talents of designers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.175-184
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• 2023

This study explores aspects of Vietnamese students' acculturation and acceptance behavior of K-fashion, based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB). In-depth interviews were conducted with 8 Vietnamese international students in Korea. The results of the study firstly indicate that K-fashion acceptance behavior of Vietnamese students reflected eight values of K-fashion, two motives of behavior, and two types of K-fashion acceptance behavior. Vietnamese students generally displayed a favorable attitude toward K-fashion. They all switched to K-fashion styles and actively showed their styles through SNS. Second, there was a difference in K-fashion behavior depending on whether the motivation for acculturation was of an active or inactive nature. The distinction between these two groups was determined by applying behavioral reasoning theory (BRT). Students whose motivation for learning Korean was an interest in Korean culture were characterized by active behavior in adapting to Korean culture, while those whose motivation for learning Korean was for strategic reasons, such as finding a good job, exhibited inactive K-fashion acceptance. This study has academic significance in that it enhances the understanding of Vietnamese consumers through the K-fashion acceptance behavior of Vietnamese students in Korea. Vietnamese students who actively embrace K-fashion play an important role in spreading K-fashion, so it could be beneficial to establish a strategy for promoting K-fashion in collaboration with them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.47-61
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• 2015

Dress functions as a clear boundary between gender differences In the past. However dress in the 21st century, due to movement of feminism during the 1960's, advance of mass media and the influence of postmodernism, the boundary of gender differences has been blurred. Especially in men's fashion, where there was no little changes in traditional menswear, it is noteworthy that there appears some changes. The research about gender has developed to queer theory, subjected on gender itself, founded on the gender diversity. The purpose of the study is to conduct the implied meanings of dress in contemporary society, when gender diversity has been expressed in men's fashion, and to review the characteristics of contemporary men's fashion through the collections and advertisements of post 2000's as well as internet sites. This research is based on theory of Judith Butler, which is on the center of feminism and queer theory. Homosexual expressions which are presented in male clothing and advertisement produce rejection of the dichotomous view of gender concept and allowing of individual gender identity expression.