• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2007

This purpose of this study is to announce the research for the formative characteristics and the constructive characteristics for the 23 pair of pants excavated from the tomb of Yeosan Song's family at Mokdal Dong in Daejeon. Men and women wore the open-type over the close-type pants. Song Hyo-sang and Chungjoo Park wore the 1 or 2 pairs of the open-type pants over the 3 pairs of close-type pants. Song Hee-jong and his wife Sonhung An wore a pair of the open-style pants over the 1 or 2 pairs of pants. It was due to the shortage of goods by the war that Song Heejong had less shrouds than Song Hyosang. The pants were almost made of the cotton and the silk. The open-type pants worn inside was made of the cotton but outside was made of the silk. That time the cotton was used for the unlined underwears for the health and the protection against the cold and the hot. The silk was used for the outwear. In the construction type, 12 pairs of pants were unlined, 6 pairs of pants were quilted, 4 pairs of pants were padded, and 1 pair of pants was lined. All unlined were the close-type and the quilted and padded pants were the open-type, which were worn inside. Lined type was just one. In the wearing order of shrouds, type, textile, and constructive type, Song Hyosang and Chungjo Park were similar, Song Heejong and Sonhung An were similar.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.79-90
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to find out the wearing conditions and cause of discomfort with shoes for male college students which will provide useful information fur the shoes manufacturer. The questionnaire survey was conducted on 346 male college students on purchasing practices, wearing conditions, and overall satisfaction with shoes. The results were as follows: Male college students have a tendency to have longer buying cycles and buy more expensive shoes compare to high school students. The order of criteria considered fer purchasing was shape, price, style coordination with clothing. The order of criteria considered for purchasing differed according to their major, economic status and purchasing place. Most of them have two pairs of white or black sports shoes and one pair of either black or brown dress shoes. The most popular material was man made leather but college students have more leather shoes than high school students. There were differences between high school students and college students in wearing conditions, how many they have, material and color. The varieties of shoes differed by season. They were satisfied with their shoes' design and color but unsatisfied with qualify or the material and durability of the shoes. Due to the pressure of the shoes, they experienced discomfort such as numbness, blisters on the feet and red skin. They experienced discomfort on the soles of the feet. The causes of discomfort were shape, width, hight of the heel, material and length in order. Dress shoes cause more discomfort than sport shoes due to the hardness of material, and flexibility of the sole. Since the material differed by the price, the degree of discomfort significantly differed by price too.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.991-1005
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• 2011

This study researches the historical production, process, and design method for 3 pairs of corsets in $18^{th}$ century France. In the analytical stage of historical materials, it grasped the kind, form, origin, and change in style through a lexical definition of relevant terms. Through a precedent study on Garsault's 'L'art du tailleur', preservation costume, and historical reconstruction of pattern in preservation costume, it confirmed corps size, silhouette, pattern form, and material for historical production. The sewing method and the producing sequence were analyzed. In the production stage, 3 selective models in corps plein baleine, corps demi-baleine, and corset were historically produced. With neckline of forming broad Letter U, the bust part is covered roundly. The bodice was composed of 10 panels based on the corps form in the mid-$18^{th}$ century of following a curve of a human body. A shoulder strap was allowed to make the arm movement comfortable by producing and attaching it separately. The cutting line except the center in the front and the back of vertical line was distributed according to the natural flow of a form and movement of the human body. The curve-based pattern line was confirmed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.253-265
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• 1990

This article was written with two purposes in mind. The first purpose was to introduce clothing and textile community who may not be familiar with Multidimensional Scaling(MDS) with usefulness of the new technique in the area of fashion merchandising. The second purpose was to present the results of an empirical study on brand image utilizing MDS and its related technique as the main analysis tools. The main objective of the empirical study was to gain a better understanding of consumer's brand image by relating differences in perception and attributes of clothing in women's ready-to wear market. For this empirical study, the ten brands and the fifteen attributes of clothing were chosen. The questionnaire consisting of questions asking about the similarity and attributes of clothing between selected brands was administrated to 185 career women during summer in 1989. Data were analyzed cluster analysis, and KYST and PROFIT in MDS program. The results were as follows: 1. The similarities data for the ten selected brand by using KYST program of MDS drawed the perceptual map. The results of this perceptual map showed that the selected brand were grouped into three clusters. 2. In order to get a somewhat objective view of which attributes consumers are attributing to each brand, PROFIT program was used. As a result, it was revealed that assortment depth / width, price, youth-oriented style, possibility of various social activity were significant attributes in consumer's brand choice rather than physical attributes of clothing such as quality or durability. This may imply that consumer orientation in rapidly changing environments of women's apparel market was its basic idea, and the focus of all fashion merchandising activities was put on need's and the response of consumer group who are the object of the target. Implicating for future research as well as for strategy of brand positioning were also suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.28-44
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• 2012

The aim of this research is to examine the tendency of national tastes reflected in global SPA brands based on the theories of Gans' taste culture and Bourdieu's cultural capital. In this study, the leading global SPA brands such as H&M, ZARA, GAP and UNIQLO can be considered as a representative taste culture as well as an icon of popular culture in the $21^{st}$ century global fashion and also the aesthetic taste of each brand differentiated from their national aesthetic values based on socio-cultural backgrounds. H&M represents fashionableness, practicality and environmental friendliness based on naturalism, democratic humanism, and functional practicality of Sweden. ZARA emerges as the most trend oriented brand as well as customer centered on the basis of cultural diversity, passion and glamorous artistic sensibility of Spain. GAP shows American iconic style, which is the functional sports casual wear, originated from American leisure culture and mass production. Lastly, UNIQLO represents high-tech functionalism and practical simplicity based on Japanese delicate workmanship and simple, concise lifestyle while relatively does not much follow the fashion forward trends. Consequently, the national taste has been proved as a solid foundation to identify each global brand. This should be the key component also applied to Korean global brands for developing their concepts and strategies more successfully based on our own national aesthetic taste.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.1-18
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• 2012

This study explores the clothing behavior of homosexual men for identity creation. Since homosexuality has been viewed in terms of immoral, medical or social problems, gay males have made efforts to construct presentational styles in order to hide or reveal their sexual identities. Kate Schofield and Ruth A. Schmidt found that there were three different layers of individual gay identity construction expressed in clothing: shared gay identity, tribal identity, and situational identity. Using their framework, 630 gay men's outfits found in the U.S drama 'Queer as folk' were analyzed, which dealt with the lives of a group of gay men living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Findings point that gay males use their clothing effectively to express their sexual identity. Firstly, they use certain fashion items as the signifier of homosexuality on a gay community level. They use their clothing to attract the sexual partners. On tribal identity level, diverse and fragmented styles could be shown besides the effeminate style. Homosexual men's clothing can be classified into the following four dominate styles: the drag look, the macho look, the androgynous look and conventional look. Findings also indicate that gay males make different clothing choices for different situations in order to blend into the heterosexual or homosexual society.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.270-276
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• 2005

Nowadays, the family system has changed from a large extended family group to a more nuclear family and the number of people who live by themselves has been increasing. Moreover, Korea is becoming an aged society, and pets are becoming more important as leave the family home. So a lot of people in Korea now consider pets as their family members due largely to the drastic change of their life style. Therefore, the rate of importing commodities for pets like cats and dogs has been increasing dramatically. In this study, in response to the growing interest in the pet industry, I have studied recent trends and types in the pets wear markets which are still in the first stage of development in Korea. In order to enhance the possibility of mass producing pets ready-made clothes for making the unit cost lower, firstly, I presented a new basic design and pattern of pets wear made up of general textile. After that, following basic purpose of pet wear, I classified decorative clothes into party wear, everyday wear and street wear and then I developed the pattern and made a pair of works for each item totaling 6 in all. I hope that the number of Korean companies which can enhance their reputation through by marketing these products in Korean as well as all around the world will increase. I believe this will be possible because by taking advantage of the easy pattern developed in this thesis. They will be able to mass produce their own high quality pets wear brand.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.286-292
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.553-563
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate the perception and preference on textile design specially on bedding products which are widely interested in the life-style market. The study was carried out targeting to 250 women between the ages of 20s and 40s based on the four seasons. The collected data was processed with SPSS 21.0 program using frequency, cross tabulation, and ANOVA analysis. The results were as following. There were slight differences on the results of the study including purchase behavior and preferred bedding textile design: color, color tone, and pattern on the textile design of bedding products according to age and season. Most of age had similar color preference on the bedding products in the season but a slight different between fall and winter. However, as color tone and pattern on the textile design of the bedding products were concerned, there were significant difference between the age depending on the season. There were significant differences of color tones and patterns in fall and winter, but not significant in spring and summer. Therefore, the domestic market of the bedding products needs more various textile design development according to consumers' preference and seasonal trend which should be discriminated in order to increase product competitiveness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2013

This study suggests a new women's upper clothing based on traditional Korean costumes that utilize the Jatmulim. The Jatmulim is an example of the skill found in conditional Korean costumes and is of a small triangular shape. Jatmulim was developed in size, shape, and arrangement through the method of making and using children's Durumagi, the dancer's or shaman's Mongduri, and modern works. A total of five pieces of different women's clothing were suggested by applying the developed Jatmulim. In the first piece, the clothing is a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the construction of the Yoseon-Cheolik from the Joseon period and made with a larger sized Jatmulim in the back of the neckline and shoulders. In the second piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's jacket based on the Bansuui of the Joseon period with rectangular Jatmulim in the front neckline and at the end of the sleeves. In the third piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the Danryeong with rectangular Jatmulim in the neckline. In the fourth piece, the construction of the Jeogori is applied to the clothing for making a woman's jacket that has a bigger sized Jatmulim in the front part as a decoration. In the fifth work, the clothing is designed for a sleeveless blouse based on the Dapho with a different sized arrangement of the Jatmulim in the neckline.