• 제목/요약/키워드: Fashion Design development

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인간과 기계의 공진화적 관점에서 바라본 사이버가수의 진화과정 (The Evolution of Cyber Singer Viewed from the Coevolution of Man and Machine)

  • 김대우
    • 만화애니메이션 연구
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    • 통권39호
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    • pp.261-295
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    • 2015
  • 90년대 말에 등장한 사이버가수는 잠시 등장했다가 사라져 버렸고 2000년대 들어 몇 번의 시도는 있었지만 유의미한 성공사례를 보여주지 못하고 있다. 사이버가수는 대중음악계에서 아이돌 육성시스템의 등장과 IT산업의 기술발달에 힘입어 탄생하게 되었고 '아담'에서 시작해 보컬로이드 '시유'까지 개발되게 된다. 만화나 게임에 등장하는 일반적인 디지털캐릭터와 차별화되는 사이버가수는 음악을 매개로 하는 우상화의 대상이 될 수 있고 다수의 팬덤을 형성하는 특징을 가지고 있다. 따라서 실패를 거듭하고, 유행이 흘러간 컨텐츠로 간주될 수 있겠으나 보컬로이드 같은 새로운 매체를 활용해 지속적인 창작 시도를 하고 있어 진정한 사이버가수 탄생에 대한 기대가 존재한다고 볼 수 있다. 초창기 사이버가수는 인간의 외형만 닮아가려는 노력으로 진행되다가 사이아트와 시유에서 인간의 기능들을 닮아가는 것으로 진화되어 왔다. 본 논문은 과거 등장했다가 사라진 사이버가수가 단순히 실패사례로 끝나지 않고 나름의 인공생명체로 진화하려는 과정 속에서 기술을 발전시키고 기계이미지를 바라보는 대중의 인식변화를 조금씩 이끌었다는 점에서 의미 있는 시도였다고 본다. 더불어 그 진화의 방향성은 인간의 기능을 기계적으로 하나씩 획득하면서 인간과 상호 재미와 감정을 교류하면서 자신만의 외형과 기능을 갖춘 인공생명체로 진화하려는 모습을 갖추고 있다. 이런 논리를 뒷받침하기 위해 브루스 매즐리시의 인간과 기계의 공진화에 대한 연구를 참고했고 90년대 후반부터 등장했던 8개의 사이버가수들의 기획 및 디자인적인 캐릭터성과 가수로써 중요하게 평가되는 목소리(보컬)에 대한 발달과정을 브루스가 연구한 관점에서 사이버가수의 진화과정으로 분석했다. 기계는 인간과 함께 공진화하면서 진화해오고 있다. 사이버가수도 인간의 이데아적 욕망과 죽음에 대한 공포의 양가적 대상으로 인식되고 있지만 새로운 인공생명체가 되려는 개발노력은 지속되고 있다. 따라서 새로운 사이버생명체라면 시유 같은 스타일이 될 가능성이 높다. 왜냐하면 만화적 형태나 기계음 목소리가 인간이 실재 욕망하는 기표의 형태는 아닐 수 있으나 현시대의 대중이 원하는 욕망과 기술적 발달이 교차되는 지점에서 탄생할 수 있는 기표의 형태이기 때문이다.

대구지역 동계 제복 근무자의 피복 착의 앙상블과 쾌적성의 주관적 평가 (The Subjective Estimation on the Ensemble and Comfort of Workers Wearing winter Uniform in Taegu)

  • 류덕환;이옥자;김승진;송민규;조지현;정명선
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제2권3호
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    • pp.253-264
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to examine the thermal comfort characteristics of the garments for school, textile and bank worker's uniform. The garments selected for this study were frequently used in Taegu area in terms of design and material used for making garments by the survey for the study The human subject tests were performed to determine the thermal comfort characteristics of garments including thermal, humidity, and wearing sensation and the data were analysed statistically. The results of the study were as follows: 1. According to the result of the survey jacket was mostly used as a school uniform for both male and female high school students. The survey showed that 93% of male students wore 'neck T-shirts' and dimensional fitness for the school uniform got suitable at 2~3 grade high school students. In terms of human subject tests, most students rated 'uncomfortable' in wearing sensation of their school uniform. One of this reason was due to the humidity sensation and air velocity sensation. Level of significance of the thermal sensation for gender difference was higher in hands and feet of the subjects than in chest and thigh of them. 2. According to the result of the survey jacket with zipper was mostly used as a textile worker's uniform. The result of the survey indicated that some textile workers are wearing their inner wear (38.7% for upper and 46.6% for lower). In the human subject tests, about 50% of subjects rated 'comfortable to slightly comfortable' for wearing sensation of the textile worker's uniform. It showed that the female subjects of the humidity sensation was rated higher than the male subjects of the humidity sensation, while the male subjects of the thermal sensation was rated higher than the female subjects of the thermal sensation. There was a closer correlation with the subjective thermal sensation for textile worker's uniform in center parts of the subjects such as back and waist than exposed parts. 3. The result of the survey showed that 70% and 23% of the female banker uniform were blouse and jacket, respectively and 75% and 25% of the male banker uniform were jacket and T-shirt, respectively. All interviewee rated trousers and skirts that were used for their lower. 4. The result indicated that 50% male and 67.7% female subjects for the banker uniform rated 'slightly comfortable for the comfort' sensation. 50% male subjects rated 'neutral' and about 50% female subjects rated 'slightly warm to neutral' for the thermal sensation. In addition, The result showed that 75% male subjects for both upper and lower rated 'neutral' for the humidity sensation and also 75% female subjects rated 'neutral to slightly dry'. Thus, there was no significant different between gender. 5. In the thermal sensation of the subjects for the banker's uniform by parts, 50% subjects rated 'neutral' for their body parts, including head, neck, back, waist, hip, lower arm, and thigh. The extremely cold parts were hands and feet for both male and female subjects.

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미술교육에 있어서 시각적 미디어를 통한 조형교육에 관한 연구 (Visual Media Education in Visual Arts Education)

  • 박지숙
    • 조형예술학연구
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    • 제7권
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    • pp.64-104
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    • 2005
  • Visual media transmits image and information reproduced in large quantities, such as a photography, film, television, video, advertisement, or computer image. Correspondence to the students' reception and recognition of culture in the future. arrangements for the field of studies of visual culture. 'Visual Culture' implies cultural phenomena of visual images via visual media, which includes not only the categories of traditional arts like a painting, sculpture, print, or design, but the performance arts including a fashion show or parade of carnival, and the mass and electronic media like a photography, film, television, video, advertisement, cartoon, animation, or computer image. In the world of visual media, Image' functions as an essential medium of communication. Therefore, people call the culture of today fra of Image Culture', which has been converted from an alphabet convergence era to an image convergence one. Image, via visual media, has become a dominant means for communication in large part of human life, so we can designate an Image' as a typical aspect of visual culture today. Image, as an essential medium of communication, plays an important role in contemporary society. The one way is the conversion of analogue image like an actual picture, photograph, or film into digital one through the digitalization of digital camera or scanner as 'an analogue/digital commutator'. The other is a way of process with a computer drawing, or modeling of objects. It is appropriate to the production of pictorial and surreal images. Digital images, produced by the other, can be divided into the form of Pixel' and form of Vector'. Vector is a line linking the point of departure to the point of end, which organizes informations. Computer stores each line's standard location and correlative locations to one another Digital image shows for more 'Perfectness' than any other visual media. Digital image has been evolving in the diverse aspects, such as a production of geometrical or organic image compositing, interactive art, multimedia art, or web art, which has been applied a computer as an extended trot of painting. Someone often interprets digitalized copy with endless reproduction of original even as an extension of a print. Visual af is no longer a simple activity of representation by a painter or sculptor, but now is intimately associated with a matter of application of media. There is some problem in images via visual media. First, the image via media doesn't reflect a reality as it is, but reflects an artificial manipulated world, that is, a virtual reality. Second, the introduction of digital effect and the development of image processing technology have enhanced a spectacle of destructive and violent scenes. Third, a child intends to recognize the interactive images of computer game and virtual reality as a reality, or truth. Education needs not only to point out an ill effect of mass media and prevent the younger generation from being damaged by it, but also to offer a knowledge and know-how to cope actively with social, cultural circumstances. Visual media education is one of these essential methods for the contemporary and future human being in the overflowing of image informations. The fosterage of 'Visual Literacy' can be considered as a very purpose of visual media education. This is a way to lead an individual to the discerning, active consumer and producer of visual media in life as far as possible. The elements of 'Visual Literacy' can be divided into a faculty of recognition related to the visual media, a faculty of critical reception, a faculty of appropriate application, a faculty of active work and a faculty of creative modeling, which are promoted at the same time by the education of 'visual literacy'. In conclusion, the education of 'Visual Literacy' guides students to comprehend and discriminate the visual image media carefully, or receive them critically, apply them properly, or produce them creatively and voluntarily. Moreover, it leads to an artistic activity by means of new media. This education can be approached and enhanced by the connection and integration with real life. Visual arts and education of them play an important role in the digital era depended on visual communications via image information. Visual me야a of day functions as an essential element both in daily life and in arts. Students can soundly understand visual phenomena of today by means of visual media, and apply it as an expression tool of life culture as well. A new recognition and valuation visual image and media education is required to cultivate the capability of active, upright dealing with the changes of history of civilization. 1) Visual media education helps to cultivate a sensibility for images, which reacts to and deals with the circumstances. 2) It helps students to comprehend the contemporary arts and culture via new media. 3) It supplies a chance of students' experiencing a visual modeling by means of new media. 4) There are educational opportunities of images with temporality and spaciality, and therefore a discerning person becomes to increase. 5) The modeling activity via new media leads students to be continuously interested in the school and production of plastic arts. 6) It raises the ability of visual communications dealing with image information society. 7) An education of digital image is significant in respect of cultivation of man of talent for the future society of image information as well. To correspond to the changing and developing social, cultural circumstances, and the form and recognition of students' reception of them, visual arts education must arrange the field of studying on a new visual culture. Besides, a program needs to be developed, which is in more systematic and active level in relation to visual media education. Educational contents should be extended to the media for visual images, that is, photography, film, television, video, computer graphic, animation, music video, computer game and multimedia. Every media must be separately approached, because they maintain the modes and peculiarities of their own according to the conveyance form of message. The concrete and systematic method of teaching and the quality of education must be researched and developed, centering around the development of a course of study. Teacher's foundational capability of teaching should be cultivated for the visual media education. In this case, it must be paid attention to the fact that a technological level of media is considered as a secondary. Because school education doesn't intend to train expert and skillful producers, but intends to lay stress on the essential aesthetic one with visual media under the social and cultural context, in respect of a consumer including a man of culture.

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한국 고리수의 역사와 원형기술의 복원 연구 (A Study on History and Archetype Technology of Goli-su in Korea)

  • 김영란
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제46권2호
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    • pp.4-25
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    • 2013
  • 고리수는 편결(編結)과 금속공예의 기술이 접목된 새로운 형식의 수법(繡法)이다. 실올끼리 고리를 서로 엮어가며 공간상(空間上)에서 들떠 있어 마치 투조(透彫)와 같은 느낌을 준다. 수놓은 천에는 금박(金箔)이나 금실과 같은 황금 재질을 삽입하여 화려한 광택을 표현하고 있다. 이러한 특징은 고리수가 서구의 레이스워크(lacework) 공예와 그 형태 및 기법이 유사하면서도 가장 다른 점이다. 10세기 고려 초기, 강원도 월정사의 동자문수향갑낭(童子紋繡香匣囊)에서 고리수의 결구원(結構元) 무늬를 통해 초창기 자취를 발견할 수 있다. 조선 중기 왜란 시(1592, 선조 25년), 고리수 유물은 일본으로 약탈되어 '고려번(高麗幡)'이라고 불리며, 지금은 탁의(卓衣)의 형태로 개조되어 전한다. 19세기의 연대와 출처가 확실한 조선시대 궁수(宮繡) 베갯모에는 삼각무늬의 금박지(金箔紙)를 삽입하여 노란색 누에실을 엮어 짠 고리 감기수가 완벽하게 보존되어 있다. 고리수의 침법(針法)을 크게 분류하면, '고리수', '고리 감기수', '고리 새김수'의 3가지로 나눌 수 있다. 10세기경 초기 단계에서 13세기까지 고리수는 여러 침법으로 변화하며 점차 2~3가지의 입체적인 색채를 사용하였다. 고리수는 중세 이후 서양에서 비약적 발전을 보이며 고귀한 수공예로 알려진 레이스 짜기와 유사한 결구원을 지녔는데, 우리나라에서는 이미 10세기경 혹은 그 이전부터 편결과 금속공예가 접목된 복합적 공예 양식으로 탄생하여 천년 동안이나 그 수법(繡法)을 지속적으로 사용했다. 본 연구를 통해 한국에서 19세기 자수 베갯모에 고리수가 여전히 사용되고 있음을 밝혔다. 아울러 이러한 연구의 성과를 토대로 고리수의 원형기술을 복원했다. 그리고 '중요무형문화재 제80호' 기능보유자 한상수 자수장과 조선시대 고리수 유물들을 재현했다. 고리수 자수품은 편결과 금속공예의 황금세공기술이 자수공예와 접목하여 탄생된 전통과학기술의 복합적 산물(産物)이다. 이것을 계승과 창조의 새로운 방향으로 자수, 편결, 직조, 염색 등 기타 공예 관련 산업 분야에 확대 응용한다면, 의료(衣料)와 패션, 장식공예, 미술 디자인 등에 고급 부가가치의 신기술로 개발되어 활용될 수 있다. 또한 다른 공예기술과도 상호 보완된다면, 표현 영역의 확대와 더불어 다양한 예술적 조형미를 추구할 수 있어 우리의 삶에서 더욱 풍부한 미적 생활을 공유하게 되리라고 본다.

A Case Study of Shanghai Tang: How to Build a Chinese Luxury Brand

  • Heine, Klaus;Phan, Michel
    • Asia Marketing Journal
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    • 제15권1호
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    • pp.1-22
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    • 2013
  • This case focuses on Shanghai Tang, the first truly Chinese luxury brand that appeals to both Westerners and, more recently, to Chinese consumers worldwide. A visionary and wealthy businessman Sir David Tang created this company from scratch in 1994 in Hong Kong. Its story, spanned over almost two decades, has been fascinating. It went from what best a Chinese brand could be in the eyes of Westerners who love the Chinese culture, to a nearly-bankrupted company in 1998, before being acquired by Richemont, the second largest luxury group in the world. Since then, its turnaround has been spectacular with a growing appeal among Chinese luxury consumers who represent the core segment of the luxury industry today. The main objective of this case study is to formally examine how Shanghai Tang overcame its downfall and re-emerged as one the very few well- known Chinese luxury brands. More specifically, this case highlights the ways with which Shanghai Tang made a transitional change from a brand for Westerners who love the Chinese culture, to a brand for both, Westerners who love the Chinese culture and Chinese who love luxury. A close examination reveals that Shanghai Tang has followed the brand identity concept that consists of two major components: functional and emotional. The functional component for developing a luxury brand concerns all product characteristics that will make a product 'luxurious' in the eyes of the consumer, such as premium quality of cachemire from Mongolia, Chinese silk, lacquer, finest leather, porcelain, and jade in the case of Shanghai Tang. The emotional component consists of non-functional symbolic meanings of a brand. The symbolic meaning marks the major difference between a premium and a luxury brand. In the case of Shanghai Tang, its symbolic meaning refers to the Chinese culture and the brand aims to represent the best of Chinese traditions and establish itself as "the ambassador of modern Chinese style". It touches the Chinese heritage and emotions. Shanghai Tang has reinvented the modern Chinese chic by drawing back to the stylish decadence of Shanghai in the 1930s, which was then called the "Paris of the East", and this is where the brand finds inspiration to create its own myth. Once the functional and emotional components assured, Shanghai Tang has gone through a four-stage development to become the first global Chinese luxury brand: introduction, deepening, expansion, and revitalization. Introduction: David Tang discovered a market gap and had a vision to launch the first Chinese luxury brand to the world. The key success drivers for the introduction and management of a Chinese luxury brand are a solid brand identity and, above all, a creative mind, an inspired person. This was David Tang then, and this is now Raphael Le Masne de Chermont, the current Executive Chairman. Shanghai Tang combines Chinese and Western elements, which it finds to be the most sustainable platform for drawing consumers. Deepening: A major objective of the next phase is to become recognized as a luxury brand and a fashion or design authority. For this purpose, Shanghai Tang has cooperated with other well-regarded luxury and lifestyle brands such as Puma and Swarovski. It also expanded its product lines from high-end custom-made garments to music CDs and restaurant. Expansion: After the opening of his first store in Hong Kong in 1994, David Tang went on to open his second store in New York City three years later. However this New York retail operation was a financial disaster. Barely nineteen months after the opening, the store was shut down and quietly relocated to a cheaper location of Madison Avenue. Despite this failure, Shanghai Tang products found numerous followers especially among Western tourists and became "souvenir-like" must-haves. However, despite its strong brand DNA, the brand did not generate enough repeated sales and over the years the company cumulated heavy debts and became unprofitable. Revitalizing: After its purchase by Richemont in 1998, Le Masne de Chermont was appointed to lead the company, reposition the brand and undertake some major strategic changes such as revising the "Shanghai Tang" designs to appeal not only to Westerners but also to Chinese consumers, and to open new stores around the world. Since then, Shanghai Tang has become synonymous to a modern Chinese luxury lifestyle brand.

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