• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.527-537
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• 1996

This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breast- ties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.152-159
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• 2003

The considerations on the costumes of the past, which have been conducted to the present for the purpose of creating a new design, are not just a simple imitation, but playing a role as a re-creation of fashion. A corset, one of the underwear items, has an important role to exaggerate, emphasize, or modify the beauty of a human body. It also contributes to form a beautiful silhouette of the outerwear. Specifically, the role of a corset today is more than a physical modification: making an underwear into an outerwear; using detailed decorations or materials of an underwear in the part of other garments. In doing these, decorative functions of costumes have been more and more emphasized. Therefore, a study on the composition or design of a corset would be an important study on the garment item that reflects fashions required by this age. The significance of the study is in its potential to provide reference materials needed in creating new underwear designs or the designs that can be made into outerwear products, by trying and producing a corset of the past. To make the corset, the definition of underwear and the characteristics of a corset were explored based on the review of the materials in the foreign museums, relevant photographs, and literature. The corset was made after understanding its minute details and examining its patterns. Pattern drawing was carried out using a Pattern CAD. As an intial phase of reproducing the corsets in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, the scope of the present study was limited to the late Renaissance age, when corsets began to appear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.410-421
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• 2018

The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.83-89
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• 2012

Recent rapid development of computer, information communication and Web service technologies is exerting considerable effects on all industrial areas. As such digital technologies are also introduced to the clothing and fashion industry and create 'virtual garment environment' consisting of 3D virtual bodies, virtual garments and virtual try-on systems, consumers are now able to try virtual garments on their virtual body online. This study was conducted in order to analyze consumers' tendency of clothing purchase using 3D virtual simulation technology, which is increasing attention throughout the world, and to propose strategies on the development of virtual try-on technology for activating apparel online shopping. The subjects of this study were men and women aged 18 or older living in the North Carolina State, U.S., and a questionnaire survey was conducted with them on their tendency of apparel online shopping and their preference for real garments and virtual garments. According to the results of this study, consumers' awareness of apparel shopping using virtual try-on was still low. Moreover, in the results of surveying consumers' purchase preference for real garments and virtual garments, preference was highest for real garment (P), which was followed by virtual garments OA, OB and BB. Based on the results of this study, for the activation of apparel online shopping using virtual simulation technology, it is considered necessary to provide services implementing virtual try-on similar to consumers' actual try-on. This requires further active research and technology development on virtual try-on simulation using digital technologies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.87-93
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• 2020

This study provide basic data to develop a dress form reflecting body shape characteristics by age and to produce a 3D body form in a virtual fitting program. A comparative analysis was conducted on the size, section shape, and slope of side shape of the modeling form by the sizing of the basic female avatar in CLO 3D, one of the 3D apparel CAD programs and the body form of women in their 20s-50s by body shape in the 6th Size Korea (2010). First, all the differences were formed similarly in the direct measurements between the 3D avatar and the body form were within 1 mm. Second, in a comparison of the section form of the avatar and body form in Size Korea, the avatar was formed in straight body shape and did not reflect a spinal curvature according to age. As a result of an examination of the items with a difference over 5° in the slope of side shape, there were angle differences in numerous body shapes in the angles of the side upper abdomen, side upper back, and side upper bust, and the avatar's bust shape was expressed more flatly compared to body form. It will be possible to produce an avatar that can adequately reflect body shape characteristics by adding detailed length and angle items by the region like waist back length and front length in producing the avatar reflecting body shape characteristics, instead of a standard body shape.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.149-161
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• 2008

Since the use of textile has become more extensive and applied for various products, today, the importance of utility, ornament and civilization of textile is emphasized. Textile design should be able to satisfy the designer's creativity and his/her world of art. Moreover, it should be appropriate for the industrial technology circumstances, and taste of consumers. In Korea, traditional culture has been extremely valued, allowing people to be more interested in textile designs derived from traditional cultural. Therefore, designs inspired by the spirit and sense of traditional patterns has been used to develop modern textile designs. Prior research on products, however, show that cultural motive was insufficient, therefore, in this research the purpose is to design textiles and to develop Korean neckties, an essential component of men's attire, by adapting Korean traditional patterns. In order to conduct the research, first, numerous parers on Korean traditional patterns have been studied to select fundamental data about the development of necktie textile designs. Second, Korean traditional patterns were applied while following the target and concept, and two pieces of necktie textile designs have been suggested. Patterns had been designed by hand drawing and CAD system, they have been suggested as a portfolio. As a result, this article suggests new necktie designs utilizing Korean traditional patterns and, attempts to develop particular pattern designs, which have power to accommodate globalization and to express the special qualities of Korea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.270-284
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• 2017

This study aimed to create 3D-printed insoles for flat-footed senior men using 3D systems. 3D systems are product-manufacturing systems that use 3-dimensional technologies like 3D scanning, 3D modeling, and 3D printing. This study used a 3D scanner (NexScan2), 3D CAD programs including Rapidform, AutoCAD, SolidWorks, Nauta+ compiling program, and a 3D printer. In order to create insoles for flat-footed senior men, we analyzed horizontal sections of 3D foot scans We selected 20 flat-footed and 20 normal-footed subjects. To make the 3D insole models, we sliced nine lines on the surface of the subjects' 3D foot scans, and plotted 144 points on the lines. We calculated the average of these 3D coordinates, then located this average within the 3D space of the AutoCAD program and created 3D sole models using the loft surface tools of the SolidWorks program. The sole models for flat feet differed from those of normal feet in the depth of the arch at the inner sideline and the big toe line. We placed the normal-footed sole model on a flat-footed sole model, and the combination of the two models resulted in the 3D insole for flat feet. We printed the 3D modeled insole using a 3D printer. The 3D printing material was an acrylic resin similar to rubber. This made the insole model flexible and wearable. This study utilized 3D systems to create 3D insoles for flat-footed seniors and this process can be applied to manufacture other items in the fashion industry as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.985-996
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolism of traditional Korean patterns which reflect an emotional cultural background of Korean people, to apply modernized and developed patterns to Textile Design for fashion cultural products, and to explore productive direction of developing designs of fashion cultural products. The process of developing Textile Design of fashion cultural products which applied symbolism of traditional Korean patterns was conducted as follows. Firstly, based on '05 S/S-'07 S/S fashion trends, a design concept wat decided(man-urban ethnic style, woman-romantic ethnic style). Secondly, motive was abstracted from selected traditional patterns to develop into modem patterns. Thirdly, items were selected according to symbolic meaning of traditional Korean patterns. Man's items included shirts, necktie, and handkerchief which were highly preferred by Korean and foreign visitors. Finally, developed textile designs were diagrammed by item using textile CAD and an illustrator 10 and presented as images. The following results were obtained. First, textile designs for fashion cultural products, in which apply traditional patterns may reflect the understanding of traditional aesthetic beauty and philosophical approach by applying symbolic significance inherent in patterns as well as the aesthetics of the patterns. Second, traditional patterns have been recognized as old fashioned to consumers because they have been often used for traditional handicrafts or folk products. If their unique shapes are changed or simplified, emphasizing images, and trend styles and colors are used, they will be recreated as a modem design. Third, textile designs using traditional patterns may provide various images and visual effects according to techniques and production methods. Then, the method will be applied to many items. Finally, since traditional patterns in fashion cultural products can be used as our unique design elements, they can be utilized as the source of design inspiration for the development of value-added products.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.74-84
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• 2013

The purpose of this research is to provide useable data for application in American and Korean apparel company. This data was developed by analyzing information of Korean and American body sizes obtained from "Size USA Project" and "Size Korea Project". The Subjects were 6,306 American females and 1,988 Korean females over 18 years old. 30 measurements and 14 computed values were chosen that were considered critical in making garments. And descriptive analysis, percentile analysis and t-test were used as statistical methods for analyzing measurements and computed value between the two countries. The results were as follows. It was determined that American women were larger and bigger than Korean women in all measurements and computed values, except for Shoulder Slope. Based on BMI values, we determined that American women had a distinct tendency towards being overweight. Through the comparison of drop values (i.e. the difference between Hip and Bust Girths or Hip and Waist Girths), ratio values (i.e. waist height divided by height) and Body Mass Index (BMI) between the two countries, we determined that American women's figures were shapelier than Korean women's. American women had higher hip heights and longer leg lengths for their height compared to Korean woman. Furthermore, the back shapes of Korean women were flatter than American women and BMI values indicated American women were relatively more overweight than Korean women.