• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.133-151
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• 2007

The role of fabric now directly related with the expression of the beauty of clothing and it provides new and creative ideas. This study was aimed at reviewing basic data that can be used in systematic design development through fabric expression for today's fashion designers who must study unique, original fashion design development. For systematic development of design technique through fabric expression, fabric expression methods and characteristics, aesthetic characteristics and fabric design of 'art to wear' were reviewed and the results are as follows. First, the highly wrought fabric expression of art to wear was confirmed to be comprehending a message within itself. Second, aesthetic characteristics of fabric expression used in art to wear can be classified as decorativeness, extensity, 2-D pictorialness, handicraft, compounding and rearrangement, and 3-D characteristics. Third, the 6 aesthetic characteristics have unique design features and aesthetic categories. The understanding the fabric expression techniques through study on the classification of the fabric expression in 'art to wear' is expected to be extended to proposition of creative direction and inspiration of modern fashion.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.137-143
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the evaluation of texture image and preference according to the structural characteristics of silk fabric, and to analyze the effects of texture image and sensibility on the preference. 53 female subjects evaluated fabric image and sensibility of 17 specimens of white silk fabrics sold on the market with semantic differential scale. The data were analyzed through factor analysis, Pearson correlational coefficient and t-test using SPSS win 13.0. For the evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, weave type, weight and thickness were analyzed. Factor analysis showed that sensibilities were classified into 3 categories; 'surface property', 'weight', 'flexibility'. Fabric images were classified into 2 categories; 'elegance' and 'naturalness'. Statistically significant differences of structural characteristics on the texture image were observed. Weave type affected 'surface property' and fiber contents affected' flexibility'. Weight and weave type affected' elegance', too. The significant factors affecting preference were fabric image of 'elegance' and structural characteristics of 'weave type'. The results of this study showed that the most preferred silk fabric is smooth and soft satin weaved fabric with texture image of 'elegance'.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 1988

The purpose of this study is to investigate water and after vapor transport characteristics of underwear fabrics. Experimental materials were cotton woven fabric and cotton knitted fabric, nylon tricot (untreated and hydrophilic finished) and cotton/polyester/cotton triple layer. Cotton knitted fabric have three types of knit structure (interlock, rib, plain stitch) and knit with either 38's or 60's combed yarn. And cotton woven fabric have plain weave with 60's combed yarn. As experimental methods, vapor cup test, dynamic method, vertical wicking test and transplanar uptake test were used. The results are as follows. 1) In cotton specimens, the order of water vapor transpiration (wvt) was plain > rib > interlock in the same yarn diameter. The knit fabric of thinner yarn showed the better wvt among the same knit structure. 2) In cotton specimens, the order of water absorbency was interlock > rib > plain in the same yarn diameter. the knit fabric of thicker yarn showed the better absorbency among the same knit structure. 3) When knit fabric (60's plain) is compared with woven fabric 960's plain), knit fabric showed faster rate of wvt, more amount of uptake and slower rate of water uptake than woven fabric did. 4) When compared untreated nylon with hydrophilic finished nylon, hydrophilic finished nylon showed much more water absorbency than untreated nylon did, but showed same rate of wvt. 5) The water transport characteristics of triple layer underwear fabric showed that the thinner and the lighter one, the better wvt and absorbency did.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.16-27
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of chemical finishes on performance characteristics of microfiber blend fabrics. A 60% polyester microfiber /40% cotton blend woven fabric was finished by ten chemicals: three silicone softeners, one fluorochemical, and their mixtures. Performance characteristics examined were fabric hand attributes. Fabric hand was evaluated by instrumental measures using Kawabata KES-F system instruments. Silicone-only finishes did not change the bending properties significantly from those of the control fabric. The fluorochemical-only finish made the fabric stiffer and crisper. When the two chemicals were mixed they tended to offset this adversary effect. Most of the chemical finishes made the surface finer and smoother. Fluorochemical-only finish improved fabric strength. Likewise, dimethylpolysiloxane silicone improved fabric strength. Amino-functional hydrophilic and diamino-functional silicone softeners, on the other hand, reduced fabric strength. However, when mixed with the fluorochemical, the adversary effect was diminished.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.7
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• pp.15-24
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• 2002

In this work, the effect of fusible interlining on the appearance related properties and mechanical characteristics of Lyocell fabric after fusing was investigated. Two different types(20's and 10's) of Lyocell face fabric with six different interlining(by thickness and structure) for earth Lyocell fabric were examined. In order to establish the optimum fusing condition for the different face fabric and interlining, peel strength of each fused fabric was measured, which was dependent on the fusing temperature, pressure, and time. The characteristics related appearance and mechanical characteristics of each fused fabric were determined. The results are as follows: The peel strength was excellent, when the fabric was fused with the force of 3kgf/$textrm{cm}^2$ at $120^{\circ}C$ for 15seconds. Flex stiffness, G, 2HG, 2HG5(shear), B, 2HB(bending) of 100% Lyocell fabric 10's were higher than those of 100% Lyocell 20's. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, B, 2HB of thicker woven interlining were higher than those of thinner woven interlining. Crease recovery of twill interlining were higher than those of plain interlining. In case of shear and bending properties, however, plain interlining was higher than twill interlining. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB of nonwoven interlining were higher than those of woven interlining. In case of drapability, however, woven interlining was higher than nonwoven interlining.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.787-798
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• 2004

This research was designed to compare clothing fabric images between on- and off-line by fabric types and its characteristics. 125 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the fabric image of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. Frequency, x2-test, t-test, and Pearson correlation were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The advantage of on-line shopping includes low price and purchasing convenience, etc. On-line shoppers mostly purchase clothing items, such as T-shirt and slacks. In most cases, texture of fabrics provides a main cause for the shoppers' discontentment with internet shopping. 2. The results of t-test for the difference of the evaluation score show that plain or pile weave and highly thick or thin fabrics-for example, Organdy, Corduroy, Nylon Taffeta, Plush, etc.-have a large difference between on-and off-line image. On the other hand, medium-thick twill weave-for example, Tweed, Flannel, etc.-or patterned weave-Chiffon, Dobby fabric, etc.-shows a small difference. 3. The results of correlation of the evaluation score indicate that wool twill fabrics like Tweed, Saxony, and Polafleece show a high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. In texture preference, no correlation exists between on-line and off-line. 4. With an analysis on fabric image evaluation by fabric characteristics, smooth, shiny pink Satin was found the most positively-evaluated item in all evaluation fields except in pattern preference and individuality. On the other hand, thick olive green Corduroy was evaluated most negatively in the fields of elegance, luxury, and feminine. 5. When compared with real ones, thin fabrics provide a different on-line fabric image. For example, Nylon Taffeta and Organdy were evaluated positively on-line because of luster and pastel tone color. However, lusterless uneven cotton Seersucker was evaluated negatively. 6. Real fabrics preference is more negative than on-line ones. In addition, patterned or unique fabrics display a high agreement between the two kinds of images.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.36-44
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• 2004

This research surveys the differences of fabric mechanical properties according to the different looms and the fabric positions with relation to warp and weft weaving tensions on the Picanol and Omega looms respectively. For this purpose, the grey fabrics woven in the previous paper are processed in dyeing and finishing processes, and the processing shrinkages are measured on each processes such as dryer, scouring, pre-set, dyeing and final-set using the fabric density and width. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of the two looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also discussed. In addition, the fabric thickness according to the fabric positions such as right, left selvedges and center of the fabrics is also measured and discussed with the characteristics of the Picanol and Omega looms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.112-118
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• 2020

This paper examined the water repellency, water proofing and water vapor permeability of twelve types of woven fabrics for sports wear clothing. Their physical properties were compared and discussed with the fabric structural parameters and surface finishing effect. A water repellent property of 100% was obtained in the coated or laminated water repellent finished fabrics; in addition, cotton/nylon breathable composite fabrics treated with a laminated finishing and with low fabric density showed a 90% water repellency. Water proofing fabric above 6,000 mm H₂O hydraulic pressure was achieved by coated or laminated finishing; however, high density fabric or medium-level coated fabrics exhibited 100% water repellent and low water proofing characteristics. Superior water vapor permeability characteristics with good water repellency and proofing properties were achieved at the 2.5 layered low density and with 0.7 - 0.9 cover factor nylon fabrics treated with hydrophilic laminated finishing. The regression analysis for examining the effects of fabric structural parameters and surface finishing such as coating and laminating to the water vapor permeability exhibited a high determination coefficient of fabric structural parameters of 63.5%; in addition,, main factors among fabric structural parameters appeared to be cover factor and fabric thickness per weight. Coating and Laminating factors exhibited determination coefficient of water vapor permeability parameters of 36.5%.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.492-507
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• 2020

This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.207-217
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• 2000

A new, high-efficiency ultrasonic fabric washing machine was developed to be an energy-efficient washing machine and to enhance fabric washing quality in washing processes of the dyeing and finishing process in the textile industry. This system is composed of ultrasonic wave generator, air blowing nozzle, torque motor for fabric tension control, and enclosed washing bath, multi-tube type exchanger, noiseless heater, air cylinder, expander roller, mangle upper and lower rollers, bend bar, dancer, shower spray nozzle, and solenoid valve, and so on. These elements are synergised for fabric washing. One of the very important principles is the low tension fabric running system. For an efficient washing effect, a counter flow system is also adopted. The new system also adopts the dancer and torque motor to control fabric tension and prevent fabric creasing. Shower spray nozzle, counter flow and overflow apparatus, and air-blowing apparatus are adopted to enhance the fabric washing effect. In this study, peach yoryu, exter, and moss crepe fabrics were washed by the general and ultrasonic washing systems under different conditions respectively. The washing efficiency was affected by the fabric running speed and characteristics of fabrics. Size content after washing increased with increasing the fabric running speed. The values in the general washing system were higher than those of the ultrasonic washing system. The changes of conductivity in the ultrasonic and the cooling bath were affected by the running time under the ultrasonic generating. The values of conductivity decreased as the experimental time passed.