• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.67-72
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• 2001

Tencel fabric was treated with cellulase and softener. And then Mechanical properties were investigated. Basic characteristic values of clothing wearing were calculated. With the treatment of cellulase and softener treatment, WT, RT, LC, WC, RC of mechanical characteristics were increased, and G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB were decreased. B/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, 2HB/B, W/T of Basic characteristic values of clothing wearing were decreased. WC/W, WC/T were increased, Therefore, drapability, crease resistance, pressing softness, air content were improved. In consideration of mechanical characteristics and basic characteristic values of clothing wearing depending on the softener, values of WT, WC/W, WC/T were bigger with the treatment of epoxy and snow softener than with the treatment of cation and blend softener. LC, WC, RC, B/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, 2HB/B, W/T were bigger with the treatment of cation and blend softener than with the treatment of epoxy and snow softener. Thereofre, with the treatment of epoxy and snow softener, drapability, crease resistance, air content were improved. With the treatment of cation and blend softener, pressing softness were improved.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.203-212
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective perception of textures, sensibilities, and preference among consumers. This study, then, aimed to provide useful information with respect to planning and designing knitted fabrics by predicting the subjective characteristics analyzed according to their structural properties. For this purpose, we employed statistical analysis tools, such as factor and regression analysis and an adaptive-network-based fuzzy inference system(ANFIS), thereby combining the merits of fuzzy and neural networks and presupposing a non-linear relationship. Through factor analysis, we also categorized the subjective textures into 'roughness', 'softness', 'bulkiness' and 'stretch-ability' with R2=70.32%: and categorized the sensibilities into 'Stable/Neat', 'Natural/Comfortable' and 'Feminine/Elegant' with R2=68.12%. We analyzed subjective textures, sensibilities, and preference with ANFIS, assuming non-linear relationships; consequently, we were able to generate three or four fuzzy rules using wool/rayon fiber content and loop length as input data. The textures of roughness and softness exhibited a linear relationship, but other subjective characteristics demonstrated a non-linear input-output relationship. Compared with linear regression analysis, the ANFIS exhibited had higher predictive power with respect to predicting subjective characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.163-175
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• 2011

The purposes of this study are to identify quality factors of knitwears, to find out important attributes of knitwears quality, and to find attributes of knitwears quality which improvement are required. College students in the Seoul district participated in the study, a convenience sampling method was used. A questionnaires was arranged with three separates subject sections, importance degree of knitwears quality, satisfaction degree of purchased knitwears, and demographic factors. Data from 280 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. For data analysis, factor analysis, paired-samples t-test and multiple response frequency were conducted. The results were as follows. Knitwears quality factors were classified into six subdivisions by factor analysis; physical functions, yarn and fabric properties, fit, symbol, aesthetic, and usefulness. Quality attributes in purchasing knitwears were considered importantly in order of design, textures, color, price, size, and shape stability, etc. Among quality attributes on knitwears, there were significant differences in importance degree and satisfaction degree; important degree was higher than satisfaction degree to six factors on knitwears quality. Especially, in graph according to gap analysis, physical function and symbol were included in IV area, attributes that attention, required of quality improvement. In contrast, yarn and fabric properties, fit, aesthetic, and usefulness were included in I area, strengths, maintained presently quality levels.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.321-326
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• 2004

[ $TiO_2$ ] contents in yarns can influence color yield so that dyeing quality of industrial polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns can be improved through the adjustment of $TiO_2$ contents. To evaluate the dyeing performance of color yield, the chips which included the different $TiO_2$ contents of 330,550, and 1,100 ppm respectively were used to produce the yarns of different $TiO_2$ content by a spin-draft machine. The physical and structural properties of the yarns were measured to investigate effect of the $TiO_2$ contents on them. Dye uptake and dyeing rate were also evaluated using a colorimeter to compare the yarns having different TiOz contents. The experimental results showed that there were no appreciable variation in physical and structural properties among the yarn samples and no difference were observed among the dyed fabric samples with regard to dyeing uptake and dyeing rate. However, the color yield of dyed fabrics increased as $TiO_2$ contents decreased in the yarns especially when the fabric samples were dyed to pale shade. The physical reasoning could be proposed on why the yarns having low $TiO_2$ contents appeared to have higher color yield after dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.11
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• pp.1520-1526
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• 2005

Henna is a natural colorant and has been used to dye hair, skin and leather since civilization began. It has reddish brown to orange shade. The major color components of Henna are Lawsone(2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone) and Luteolin (3',4',5,7-tetrahydroxy-flavone). In this study, various fibers containing the nitrogen component, especially used fur underwear, were dyed with Henna under various dyeing conditions, then dyeing characteristics, color fastness, and anti-bacterial properties were evaluated. from the results, Henna has good affinity to the chlorinated wool>wool>Pu/nylon>nylon>soybean>silk in decreasing order. The color fastness of the wool fabric dyed with Henna to washing, dry-cleaning, and perspiration showed 4-5 grade. The color fastness to light was 3rd grade. These results are relatively good comparing with other natural dyes. Moreover dyed fabric with Henna showed excellent antibacterial activity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.137-150
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• 2023

This paper investigated the applicability of polyester yarn coating using ther- moplastic polyester elastomer (TPEE) to replace polyvinyl chloride (PVC) coated yarn for blinds fabric. For this purpose, suitable TPEE for yarn coating was selected by measuring thermal and rheological properties and the yarn coating process conditions were investigated by changing variables such as extrusion temperature, die and nipple dimensions, take-up speed, and core yarn denier. TPEE coated yarns with a diameter of 0.3 and 0.4 mm were prepared, respectively. Tensile properties and cross-section uniformity revealed by a scanning electron microscopy (SEM) of the TPEE coated yarn were analyzed. Among several candidates, TPEE having a melt index of 35 and melting temperature of 153℃ was the most suitable for replacing PVC, and the opti- mum coating conditions for the TPEE coating yarn were a head temperature of 170℃ and core yarn denier of 420 denier. The selected TPEE coated yarns have enough ten- sile strength and uniformity to replace present PVC coated yarns, certified by SEM photograph.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.147-151
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• 1994

This study was carried out investigate the characteristics of Habutae and Chiffon woven with silk and polyester(S/P) compound yarn. The S/P compound yarn could be produced by the automatic reeling machine with attachment of air jetting device, polyester yarn guider and tension control apparatus. The surface structure, tensile property and dyeing fastness of S/P compound fabric were examined for the fabric properties. Electron microscopy revealed that most part of S/P compound yarn was well interlaced and some silk part of compound yarn were hidden by polyester on an examination of surface of chiffon fabric. By the one bath and two step dyeing of disperse and acidic dyes, the colour fastness of S/P compound fabrics were 4 grade above. The tenacity and initial modulus of the finished S/P compound fabric were lower than those of grey and degummed fabrics, but reversed in elongation.

• Polymer(Korea)
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.89-96
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• 2010

Adhesive binders with core-shell structure of organic/organic pair were prepared by emulsion polymerization of acrylic monomers, such as methyl methacrylate(MMA), ethyl acrylate(EA), n-butyl acrylate(BA), and styrene(St). Ammonium persulfate (APS) was used as an water soluble initiator in the presence of an anionic surfactant, sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate (SDBS). Non-woven fabric and leather were impregnated with the adhesive binder. The surface of the impregnated fabric and leather were treated with plasma technique and then kinetics analysis and mechanical properties were measured. The conversions of the polymerization of core-shell binder (MMA/EA, MMA/BA) were greater than 90%. When the core-shell binder was prepared at equimolar conditions, the increasing effect of the core-shell binder on the state peel strength of the impregnated and plasma-treated non-woven/non-woven fabric has the order of MMA/St, EA/BA, BA/MMA, EA/St, and EA/MMA. When the core-shell binder was prepared at non-equimolar conditions, the increasing effect of the core-shell binder on the state peel strength of the non-woven fabric/leather has the order of MMA/BA, BA/EA, MMA/EA, St/MMA, and EA/St.