• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.292-302
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• 2016

In this study, shallow-water design waves are estimated for various return periods based on statistical analysis of extreme waves observed 13 years at four stations on the Korean east coast (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, Jinha). These values are compared with the results from SWAN simulation by using the deep water design waves conventionally used in Korea (KORDI, 2005). It was found that the simulated values of the shallow-water design waves are comparatively smaller than the values from the extreme value analysis, expecially below 30 years frequency, which implies possible under-estimation of the deep-water design waves on the Korean east coast.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.69-91
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• 1992

A new type of horizontal submerged break water or fixed structure to control waves near coastal area is introduced to focus wave energy before or behind it. Intentionally, the water depth near the structure is changed gradually to get a refraction and diffraction effect. The concentration of wave energy due to the structure was analyzed for the selected design of structure. The shape of the submerged structure in consideration is a circular combined with elliptical curve not to cause reflection of waves at the extreme edge of the structure but cause wave scattering. The direction of the structure against the incident wave is changed easily in the model Applying a regular wave train the following were examined. 1) whether a crescent plain submerged structure designed by the wave refraction theory can concentrate wave energy at a focal zone behind and before it without wave breaking phenomenon. 2) Location of maximum wave amplification factor in terms of the incident wave direction, wave period, etc. In any event the study would contribute to control waves near coastal area and to protect a beach from erosion without interruption of ocean view it is an useful study for the concentration of wave energy efficiently with the increase of wave height.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.103-114
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• 2024

Remote sensing wave observation data are crucial when analyzing ocean waves, the main external force of coastal disasters. Nevertheless, it has limitations in accuracy when used in low-wind environments. Therefore, this study collected the raw data from MIROS Wave and Current Radar (MWR) and wave radar at the Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS) and applied the optimal filter by combining filters provided by MIROS software. The data were validated by a comparison with South Jeju ocean buoy data. The results showed it maintained accuracy for significant wave height, but errors were observed in significant wave periods and extreme waves. Hence, this study used an artificial neural network (ANN) to improve these errors. The ANN was generalized by separating the data into training and test datasets through stratified sampling, and the optimal model structure was derived by adjusting the hyperparameters. The application of ANN effectively improved the accuracy in significant wave periods and high wave conditions. Consequently, this study reproduced past wave data by enhancing the reliability of the MWR, contributing to understanding wave generation and propagation in storm conditions, and improving the accuracy of wave prediction. On the other hand, errors persisted under high wave conditions because of wave shadow effects, necessitating more data collection and future research.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.273-286
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• 2021

In recent years, as human casualties and property damage caused by hazardous waves have increased in the East Sea, precise wave prediction skills have become necessary. In this study, the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) third-generation numerical wave model was calibrated and optimized to enhance the accuracy of winter storm wave prediction in the East Sea. We used Source Term 6 (ST6) and physical observations from a large-scale experiment conducted in Australia and compared its results to Komen's formula, a default in SWAN. As input wind data, we used Korean Meteorological Agency's (KMA's) operational meteorological model called Regional Data Assimilation and Prediction System (RDAPS), the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts' newest 5th generation re-analysis data (ERA5), and Japanese Meteorological Agency's (JMA's) meso-scale forecasting data. We analyzed the accuracy of each model's results by comparing them to observation data. For quantitative analysis and assessment, the observed wave data for 6 locations from KMA and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) were used, and statistical analysis was conducted to assess model accuracy. As a result, ST6 models had a smaller root mean square error and higher correlation coefficient than the default model in significant wave height prediction. However, for peak wave period simulation, the results were incoherent among each model and location. In simulations with different wind data, the simulation using ERA5 for input wind datashowed the most accurate results overall but underestimated the wave height in predicting high wave events compared to the simulation using RDAPS and JMA meso-scale model. In addition, it showed that the spatial resolution of wind plays a more significant role in predicting high wave events. Nevertheless, the numerical model optimized in this study highlighted some limitations in predicting high waves that rise rapidly in time caused by meteorological events. This suggests that further research is necessary to enhance the accuracy of wave prediction in various climate conditions, such as extreme weather.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.204-210
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• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.26-38
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• 2020

A statistical test was carried out on the IID (Independently and Identically Distributed) assumption of the AM (Annual Maxima) data used to estimate the design wave height. The test was divided into independence (randomness) test and homogeneity test, and each test was conducted on AM data of 210 and 310 stations in coastal and inner coastal grids in typhoon and non-typhoon (monsoon) conditions. As a result of the independence test, the rejection ratios of the test are in the range of 1.8~5.3% and 1.4~6.0% for the non-typhoon and typhoon data sets, respectively. On the other hand, in the distribution difference test of typhoon data and nontyphoon data, the same distribution hypothesis was found to be rejected in the range of 47~79% according to the test method for both coastal grid and inner coastal grid. Therefore, in estimating design wave height by extreme value analysis, the estimation process by dividing the typhoon and non-typhoon data is appropriate.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.313-319
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• 2007

Long term wave climate of both extreme and operational wave height is essential for planning and designing coastal structures. Since the availability of the field wave data for the waters around Korean peninsula is limited to provide a reliable wave statistics, the wave climate information has been generated by means of long-term wave hindcasting using available meteorological data. In this paper, a set of deep water wave data obtained from KORDI(2003) were analyzed for extreme wave heights. These wave data at 67 stations off the Korean coast from 1979 to 1998 were arranged in the 16 directions. The probability distributions considered in this research were the FT-I and Weibull distribution. For each of these distributions, the method proposed by Goda(2004) was applied to estimate the parameters. For judgment of best fitting, MIR criterion proposed by Goda and Gobune(1990) was used. FT-I distribution which best fits to the 886 data, while Weibull(k=0.75) 81 data, Weibull(k=1.00) 105 data.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.1056-1063
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• 2015

Waves can be expressed in terms of a spectrum; that is, the energy density distribution of a representative wave can be determined using statistical analysis. The JONSWAP, PM and BM spectra have been widely used for the specific target wave data set during storms. In this case, the extracted wave data are usually discontinuous and independent and cover a very short period of the total data-recording period. Previous studies on the continuous wave spectrum have focused on wave deformation in shallow water conditions and cannot be generalized for deep water conditions. In this study, the Generalized Extreme Value (GEV) function is proposed as a more-optimal function for the fitting of the continuous wave spectral shape based on long-term monitored point wave data in deep waters. The GEV function was found to be able to accurately reproduce the wave spectral shape, except for discontinuous waves of greater than 4 m in height.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1996.10a
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• pp.19-22
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• 1996

Extreme sea statistics and combinations of environmental events or response for structures are very important problem in performance evaluation and design of coastal and Offshore structures. A probabilistic method is developed that leads to the combination of Typhoon (Hurricane) or winter storm induces winds, waves, currents and surge for a generic site. The traditional recommendation for the fixed structures is a combination of the 100 years maximum wave height with the 100 years wind and current. (omitted)

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.1B
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• pp.59-69
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• 2012

Probabilistic design is required to effectively consider the coastal environment of great uncertainty. However, designers who are familiar with the deterministic design method prefer a method which is similar to the existing method but is based on the probabilistic concept. Therefore, the partial safety factor method has been adopted as a new design method over the world. In Korea, Tetrapod is widely used for armoring rubble mound breakwaters. Even though the partial safety factor method developed in the United States and Europe covers Tetrapods, the limited wave and structure conditions in its development make the engineers hesitate about its use in practical breakwater design. In this study, partial safety factors for Tetrapod armor blocks have been developed by analyzing 116 breakwater cross-sections and wave conditions in 16 trade harbors and 15 coastal harbors with the FORM and optimal code calibration approach. Especially, partial safety factors have been proposed depending on the shape parameter of the Weibull extreme wave height distribution. For other types of extreme distributions, it is possible to apply the proposed partial safety factors using the relationship between skewness coefficient and shape parameter. Finally, the proposed partial safety factors have been applied to existing structures to show that they better satisfy the target reliability of the structures than previous partial safety factors.