• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.4
• /
• pp.400-406
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.54-61
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this research was first to analyse and compare the types of microbes inherent among the unwashed and washed Kupori textiles, and second to investigate whether there is a difference between unwashed and washed Kupori textiles on the susceptibility of contamination by microorganism when exposed to the same microbial environment. Microbial identification procedure and the Shake Flask Test for investigating the effect of exposure to microbial environment were carried out separately. The result of microbial identification procedure indicated that a variety of bacteria and fungi were inherent in both unwashed and washed textiles and that the population of contaminated microorganism became more diverse after washing. The result of Shake Flask Test indicated that given the same exposure condition, the unwashed textiles tend to be more susceptible to bacterial contamination than the washed textiles. The results of the present study supported the current conservation procedures adopted in Korean museums which include washing and humigation procedures before long-term storage or display of exhumed textiles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.902-912
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this research was two-folds; first, to investigate the type of soil contaminated in the Hunsang excavated from the Milchang-gun burial of Mapo for the purpose of proposing the adequate washing method, second, to utilize the chemical degradation result obtained from the previous research to identify the natural dye source used in the Hunsang textile. The application of KS K0251 test showed that the soil was more oleophilic than hydrophilic thus indicating that wet cleaning was more adequate that dry cleaning for the removal of Hunsang soil. The GC-MS result of the Hunsang extraction showed dimethyl phthalate and 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol as its degradation product and these coincided with the degradation products from the alizarin standard data of previous research. The comparison of the two suggested that it is likely that Hunsang was dyed with madder which has alizarin as its major chromophore.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.22-29
• /
• 2008

In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.37 no.6
• /
• pp.827-836
• /
• 2013

Indigotin, indirubin, berberine, palmatine, alizarin, and purpurin are major pigments of indigo plant, Phellodendron bark, and madder. The six pigments were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument for the purpose of the simultaneous detection of the pigments in a single sample run. The HPLC-DAD-MS method examined the individual pigment solutions in DMSO, a solution containing 6 pigments, and the DMSO extract of the silk dyed with a dye solution of 5 pigments excluding indirubin. The retention times of the HPLC chromatograms, ${\lambda}_{max}$ of the uv-vis absorption bands in the DAD analyses, and the molecular ions detected for the compound peaks in the MSD analyses were consistent throughout the analyses of individual pigment solutions, mixed pigment solutions, and dye extracted from silk dyeing. The developed instrumental method of the simultaneous detection of six pigments can identify dye in an exhumed textile if the textile is dyed using any one (or multiple) pigments of indigo, Phellodendron bark, or madder plant.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.8-15
• /
• 1996

Three pieces of cotton fabrics used for this study were exhumed in the Mt.Moo Deung near Kwang Ju in 1965. The fabrics were remains of Jang Heung Lim Si-the nephew's wife of General Kim Deok Ryeong. It was reported that Jang Heung Lim Si died in 1615. The cotton fabrics were classified into three, A, B and C, according to their color. The fabric A was inherent color of cotton, the fabric B was that of light brown and the fabric C was that of dark brown. The physical and chemical characteristics of the cotton fabrics were examined. In the meantime the construction of cotton fabrics and traditional dyeing of Yi dynasty were studied through various records. The results were as follows: 1. According to electromicroscopic examination, the lumen in the cotton fiber had not been developed enough, therefore the quality of cotton at that time was supposed to be not so excellent. 2. The results of chemical analysis indicated that: (1) While the copper number of the cotton fabric A was similar to that of bleached cotton, that of the fabric C was extremely high. (2) The amount of methylene blue absorption was much more than that of normal cotton. (3) The content of cellulose was less than that of normal cotton. (4) The degree of polymerization was less than that of normal cotton. From the results mentioned above, it was concluded that the cotton fabrics were oxidized slowly in the closed lime coffin for a long period of time. From this process of oxidization and deterioration, the degree of polymerization was decreased through depolymerization, and carboxyl groups were produced by the oxidization at reducing end groups. 3. It was confirmed that the cotton fabric C was dyed by the juice of immature persimmon. Thus, it was inferred that the large amount of copper number of cotton fabric C was derived from phenolic OH groups of tannins having high reducing properties in persimmon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.49
• /
• pp.49-63
• /
• 1999

This research utilized the Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy(EDS) and the Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry in the analysis of chemical elements present among the textiles exhumed from Kupori Hwasung-kun Kyunggi-do. The two research objectives were: first to examine the elements present and their percent presence in Kupori samples: second to investigate whether the elements are part of mordant substances which could have been used when dyeing the KUpori textiles in the past. To meet such research purposes standard silk fabric was dyed with Sophorajaponica using alum and iron mordants. For alum mordant unpurified general alum and potassium aluminum sulfate(AlK(SO4)2). iron sulfate(FeSO4·7H2O) were used, From the results of EDS and ICP-Mass analysis the following conclusions were drawn. 1 According to the EDS analysis 9 elements Ca, S, Al, Si, K, Fe, P, Mg and Na were detected. 2. ICP-Mass result of the mordant chemicas showed high amount of A, Al and k present in alum mordants and S and Fe present in iron mordants. 3. Comparison of the ICP-Mass results of the mordant chemicals and those of the standard dyed samples suggested that the amount presence of Al and Fe is a strong indication of the usage of alum and iron mordants respecticely in an unknown dyed textile. 4, In the washed Kupori textiles Fe showed a relatively higher rate of presence in the samples Therefore it can be conjectured that those Kupori textiles were dyed with iron mordant based on the result of the above number 3. 5. It is probable that the other elements detected from the Kupori samples were incorporated into the textiles as part of the soil debris produced from the degradation of the dead within the coffin or the earth debris. They can also be part of the inorganic compounds inherent in the silk textiles themselves before dyed. 6. Among the elements it is likely that Ca which showed a high degree of presence among the unwashed samples was part of the inorganic compound inferent in the silk textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.10
• /
• pp.1228-1241
• /
• 2011

This research compares the change in berberine content in liquid dye and the color and dye uptake of amur cork tree dyed silk upon thermal degradation treatment. Thermal degradation of amur cork tree extract and liquid dye of standard berberine was carried out at room temperature, $4^{\circ}C$ refrigeration, and $100^{\circ}C$ oven conditions for 0-192 hours. Amur cork tree dyed silk was treated in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven for 0-240 hours. The berberine content in liquid dye was measured by the relative abundance of the berberine peak in the HPLC-MS chromatograms. The color and dye uptake of dyed silk was measured using K/S value and colorimetric data. The berberine content in standard berberine dye was 2.4 times that of the amur cork tree extract. A similar result was observed between the K/S value of standard berberine dyed silk and that of amur cork tree dyed silk. The berberine dyed silk showed the highest dye uptake after 120 hours in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven. This result was similar to the change in a berberine content in liquid dye in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven treatment. The change of the K/S value of amur cork tree dyed silk and berberine content of amur cork tree extract was similar up to 24 hours. The result suggests that there is a direct relationship between the color change of amur cork tree dyed silk and the berberine content in amur cork tree dye.