• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.