• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.163-186
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• 2000

We have previously screened 150 medicinal plants on the inhibition of elastase and found a significant inhibitory effects of the extracts of Areca catechu L. on the aging and inflammation against the skin tissues. To isolate and identify the compounds having biological activity, we was further purified by each of the solvent fractions, silica gel column chromatography, preparative TLC and reversed-Phase HPLC. Peak in HPLC, which coincided with the inhibitory activity against elastase, was identified as Phenolic substance using various colorimetric methods, UV, and IR. $IC_{50}$/ values of phenolic substance purified from Areca catechu were 26.9 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for porcine pancreatic elastase (PPE) and 60.8 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for human neutrophil elastase (HNE). This Phenolic substance showed more potent activity than those of reference compounds, oleanolic acid (76.5 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for PPE, 219.2 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for HNE) and ursolic acid (31.0 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for PPE, 118.6 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ for HNE). According to the Lineweaver-Burk Plots, the inhibition against both PPE and HNE by this phenolic substance was competitive with substrate. Phenolic substance from Areca catechu exhibited high free radical scavenging effect ($SC_{50}$/ : 6 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$) and inhibited effectively hyaluronidase activity ($IC_{50}$/: 210 $\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$). These results suggest that the Phenolic substance Purified from Areca catechu showed anti-aging effect by protecting connective tissue proteins.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.